Disc Selection for Forehand? Help!

[PsyStal]

I'm trying to develop a better forehand shot for my drives, but I'm not quite sure how to evaluate my disc selection in this regard. I understand how HSS and LSS (Turn and Fade) affect normal right handed backhand shots, but can't find a decent article explaining how to interpret these numbers if you're throwing right handed forehand. Are the effects somehow reversed? Do they remain the same?

[Russell Gore]

Not sure what you mean by LSS and HSS. However I can tell you that Forehand is exactly the same as backhand. The only difference is that you must think like a lefty. Everything that the disc does for a backhander it will do for someone throwing forehand, just the opposite direction. So instead of your hyzer being to the left it will be to the right. Your anhyzer is now reversed also. Now how do you throw these? For a hyzer tilt your disc down towards the ground. For anhyzer tilt the disc upward. Now what about overstable and understable? Overstable is your hyzer discs and Under is your anhyzer discs. Hope this helps you some!!

[MattK]

I agree with everything that's been said so far. For a right handed throw, a backhand will spin clockwise while a forehand will spin counterclockwise, meaning the throws will naturally fade in the opposite directions. Where the stability issue comes in relates to how much spin is put on the disc. Most people put less spin on a disc when throwing forehand (learning to snap that wrist is easier said than done). As such, forehand throws have a greater tendency to turn over and become rollers, or in the extreme case, just corkscrew into the ground. One way to compensate for this is to throw a more overstable disc, that is one that is heavier and has more weight on its perimeter than what you would usually throw backhand.

I'm sort of lost myself on the HSS/LSS thing. I just think of "stability" as one variable...

[Texconsinite]

I primarily throw forehand (trying to learn backhand), and what I really like is the Elite X Avenger. It goes pretty straight with a hard little break on the end, and really goes. Don't hate, but the Aerobie Arrow also flys incredibly straight for me when thrown forehand. Its like aiming a sniper rifle at the pin, and has minimal break or roll at the end. Will not flip over or hyzer/anhyzer, so i guess would be good to learn forehand on, if you want to start with shorter shots.

[mmmatt]

For me, I currently use a Wraith. I worked up to that power-requirement. Before the Wraith, I used first a Sidewinder, then a Valkyrie. The latter discs started turning over as I was able to put more power into them. Now, even the Wraith turns over occasionally, since it's pretty beat. Forehand shots are my normal drive, so I generally think of the curving of the disc in reverse, like leftys. Goes left first, then heads back right (RHFH).

[PsyStal]

I agree with everything that's been said so far. For a right handed throw, a backhand will spin clockwise while a forehand will spin counterclockwise, meaning the throws will naturally fade in the opposite directions. Where the stability issue comes in relates to how much spin is put on the disc. Most people put less spin on a disc when throwing forehand (learning to snap that wrist is easier said than done). As such, forehand throws have a greater tendency to turn over and become rollers, or in the extreme case, just corkscrew into the ground. One way to compensate for this is to throw a more overstable disc, that is one that is heavier and has more weight on its perimeter than what you would usually throw backhand.

I'm sort of lost myself on the HSS/LSS thing. I just think of "stability" as one variable...

I was referring to the way that Innova (and certain websites) rate disc flight patterns. High Speed Stability (HSS), called Turn by Innova, indicates the tendency of a disc to break right at higher speeds, typically earlier in flight. Low Speed Stability (LSS), called Fade by Innova, indicates how sharply a disc will cut left at low speeds, typically at the end of flight. I figured the spin on a forehand is reversed, and thus the meaning of these numbers is probably reversed as well (HSS corresponding to left turns, and LSS corresponding to a fade right). I'm looking to purchase a couple new discs primarily for forehand drives, and thus I'm just trying to interpret numbers the manufacturers use.

[mmmatt]

It's basically just reversed. A negative number would Turn (HSS) left and since all discs basically have a positive Fade (LSS), it would Fade right.

[Disc Dog]

The advise about the throw is good but your disc selection should match what you are trying to accomplish.

I use a Destroyer for my flicks because I use it to go left to right.

I use my Viper for short throws where i am using it for a up and I have to reach out to get around trees and bushes.

[colodiscgolfer]

Generally FH shots have more spin on them than BH shots, so any high speed turn (your HSS number) will be exaggerated, and your low speed fade (LSS number) will be somewhat diminished. This makes discs that are more overstable better for most forehand shots, and also the overstability can also help mask any off axis torque issues.

[chain-addicted]

I usually use my Star Destroyer for a RHFH drive. It stays pretty straight until that sharp fade at the end and it usually skips. I absolutely LOVE the distance I can get with it.

I side-arm my viking as well and get real good results with that thing. Really straight disc.

When brand new, the DX Viper is pretty good too. Now my Viper is so beat in that it is understable... I almost never throw it anymore.... If I do take it out of my bag I usually throw it backhand.

[locuno1]

I usually use my Star Destroyer for a RHFH drive. It stays pretty straight until that sharp fade at the end and it usually skips. I absolutely LOVE the distance I can get with it.

I side-arm my viking as well and get real good results with that thing. Really straight disc.

When brand new, the DX Viper is pretty good too. Now my Viper is so beat in that it is understable... I almost never throw it anymore.... If I do take it out of my bag I usually throw it backhand.

i too use a champion viking for fh drives and i will agree that it flies really straight.

[G-MIL]

Hey man I would try starting with a slower speed disc like a TeeBird or TL to get the basics of the forehand down (when learning a forehand shot higher speed discs can sometimes work against you). When you're starting out with that throw also remember to keep your elbow tucked and flick your wrist to get that snap off the release. If you wanna try a little faster discs I'd go with a Starfire or Firebird and if you really wanna challenge try a Max.

[wormburner]

i started throwing FH this summer and found success with the firebird. when i was looking to throw, somebody helping me was recommending the more overstable discs like the firebird, monster, x-caliber, boss, flick or predator. i've noticed these help because the disc will always come back right so it makes there a little more room for error when beginning because with other more understable discs i was having a hard time keeping it from turning over and going left. i'm throw rhbh more often than not, but having this option really improved my game

[rikardob]

However I can tell you that Forehand is exactly the same as backhand.

I would have to disagree. The fade at the end is totally different. FH shots are going to come in hard right. You can adjust that with a BH.

[Technohic]

Funny you should ask because I have just recently been adding in forehand. If you are RH, and the disc comes out and just dives into the ground hard left, you need to keep your elbow in and look for more wrist snap than arm power. I know thats more of technique than equipment, but its important to get that out of the way so you can properly identify what the discs are doing.

Now, that brings me to the discs. Those charts of HSS and LSS (high speed stability, low speed stability) are based on the disc having the proper power and speed for their optimal flight. Since no one is exactly alike, so you use a disc you know flies for you a certain way, and go from there. The thing with forehand though, you will want someting more overstable than you use for BH.

These are just observations I have made recently, as late as yesterday trying to learn myself. Once I got the elbow in and snapped with my wrist, discs will fly nicely and early on, I had success with a teebird but it didnt take but a short round until, it didnt dive left into the ground, but it would hold a line left. I can get it higher, really high, and that would give it time to come back right, but that isnt always an option.

Then I discovered I could FH hyzer flip my leopard and that works ok but then I was using a Flick. The thing is not going to turn over and has a very dependable and sharp fade to the right. This tells me I need something just as HSS but a little less LSS, so I think a good choice would be either something for the faster speed but same stability of a teebird with less fade than a Flick, which would be maybe a striker, or something with the Flicks stability but slower, to get it to not fade out so quick like a Predator or Banshee.

I think I am going to go for the Predator.

[rockbuddist101]

if you wana become a better forehand player, learn how to throw a force. then once its beat up enough it becomes a great backhand "s" driver. getting a force was the best disc golf decision i ever made for a number of reasons. getting alot better at forehand was one of those reasons.

[tstack10]

never could forehand more than specialty shots of 100 feet or less...got z flick in lighter weight and can now get 300 sometimes but really accurate hard left then back right. another tip is don't overthrow ir biggest mistake I see when throwing any disc...more power doesn't equal distance