Introducing Pine Trees - SE Michigan

[esdubya]

Our club is working with our local park here in Whitmore Lake, MI. On the disc golf course we are working to eliminate the invasive species Autumn Olive (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elaeagnus_umbellata). It is nasty stuff, especially when your disc ends up in the middle of a bush. In some areas we want to replicate the obstacle we removed with a native species.

So I'm looking for a recommendation of a native pine species that will be hearty enough to survive the initial few seasons of disc golf and become large enough to take root and survive longer than I.

The course already has many Eastern Red Cedars (Juniperus virginiana) so that would be the preferred type but I'm not sure how it will do and we don't want to waste a bunch of money on baby trees that won't survive. Any help would be appreciated, but I realize this may be a shot in the dark.. looking for a course designer or landscaper who has done this in the past. :) Thanks

[Peterb]

No matter what, if you're planting trees in the middle of fairways they need to be protected. I highly recommend using some large stakes and string black golf netting to protect your trees. If you're planting on the fringe or somewhere else, then they won't need protection.

I did a quick search (https://www.msu.edu/~linnellw/Michtree.htm), and there are several species of pine that show up as Michigan natives.

This is not an easy or quick task. Planting trees takes a lot of work, as does protecting and caring for them. I applaud you on taking this on, as a lot of disc golfers have found that caring for the environment is a rewarding endeavor.

Good luck!

[Disc Golf Live]

Hi, Scott. When we planted in-fairway trees up the road at HM, we usually planted a couple of very inexpensive shrubs to block some of the throws. (Netting would also serve, as noted above.) We used dogwood and viburnum as shrubs, they've held up pretty well considering they cost 10-20% as much as a nice conifer. The biggest problem with pines in the fairway is having the top broken by a throw. The end result is a tree which ends up getting wider rather than taller. If you can plant trees behind the olives, and leave the olives for a few years as the tree gets settled in, that would be helpful to overall health as well. Honeysuckle grows to much the same size and density as the olives, so those might be another nice option if they're available. I think they're at least native.

We used a nursery from up in the Fenton area, easy to work with and affordable wholesale rates. Had a nice time picking out what we wanted, all delivered to the park for a reasonable fee. Drop me a PM if you want contact info. The Co. folks may have their own preferred vendors, as well as a naturalist who can help select the right species/varieties for the area.

Take care,

Joe

[esdubya]

Thanks for good info Joe and Peter. Very helpful..

[donnyv]

Our local Conservation Office has a tree sale every year (http://www.macombconservationdistrict.org/). They have a large selection of native trees for sale for good prices. Pine and Spruce trees are usually 2'-3' in height. I think the last day to order is today 4-13-2011 for pick-up in mid-May. Late orders are accepted but supply is limited.

I've done this a few years now (2004, 2007, 2008). My trees are slowly but surely growing. Of course their success depends on the soil type, sun light, and water available/needed. My spruce's do not like wet feet either.

Living out in the country, I've had to deal with deer and rabbits that love to mess with my trees. Luckily I haven't killed any trees with discs yet (I've hit a deer and a bunch of rabbits though, paybacks a bitch). I have protected the trees with some tomato cages and chicken wire. It does the job but can get costly in a hurry if you don't have the stuff lying around.

I don't know how much traffic your course gets but it's best to protect the trees when their young. Any damage to the smaller stuff will greatly impact the growth down the road.

Wishing your course the best.

Donny