Making tee signs for my home course

[MikePinchico]

Here are some pictures of the tee signs I'm making for my home course (Lava Creek, Paradise CA). They are not finished but I thought I would post what I have so far.....
13070
^ I cut all of these free hand with my chainsaw
13071
^ I still have two to cut and the tops need sanding to take the excess paint that spilled over from painting the numbers. I will pressure wash and cover with mineral oil to preserve the wood.
13072
^Nothing needs to be said about this

[Frank-Flyer]

13072
^Nothing needs to be said about this

hahaha very nice... but seriously those are legit :hfive:

[Skankin77]

They look good! Definitely be nice to see something you did to help your course every time you tee off. and LMAO at the last picture :thmbup:

[MikePinchico]

I will post a few more pictures as they move to completion. 1.) I need to pressure wash the wood. 2.) Cut the old branches off the sides of the logs 3.) Sand the excess paint from filling in the letters. 4.) treat the wood (with mineral oil). 5.) Install for the tourney in 10 days.

Are there any suggestions or tips? (I'm not asking for d**k comments)

[snappyfingers]

Lolz at picture #3

Good work sir :hfive:

[TxDiscGolfBoy]

Those Roc bud!!! I like the "earthy" look. Way better than metal posts and such. Unique and different. I like it.:thmbup:

[MikePinchico]

Thank you TxDisc, I have been working like a dog to get these completed. Its hard working full time and coming home and working on them but I enjoy doing things for the course. I'll post some of the log benches I made for some of the holes. As the chief wood fabricator for the course I have many project to do, but I'm glad you all enjoy them.

[prerube]

I will post a few more pictures as they move to completion. 1.) I need to pressure wash the wood. 2.) Cut the old branches off the sides of the logs 3.) Sand the excess paint from filling in the letters. 4.) treat the wood (with mineral oil). 5.) Install for the tourney in 10 days.

Are there any suggestions or tips? (I'm not asking for d**k comments)

I have the same thing I used polyurethane, but that is expensive. Also I painted on a thin layer of watery concrete (to the bottom 8-10 inches) and let it dry before cmenting it into the ground.

[MikePinchico]

That is a great idea on the watery concrete prerube I will defiantly have to do that. Polyurethane is expensive and I figured there would be a more natural curing with the mineral oil. Only downside to the mineral oil is that it would have to be reapplied periodically.

[prerube]

That is a great idea on the watery concrete prerube I will defiantly have to do that. Polyurethane is expensive and I figured there would be a more natural curing with the mineral oil. Only downside to the mineral oil is that it would have to be reapplied periodically.

I would never have done polyurethane, but I found a small bucket of it on sale at a thrift store.

[MikePinchico]

Do you think mineral oil is the way to go prerube?

[prerube]

Do you think mineral oil is the way to go prerube?

I would ask woodcutter. I have never used mineral oil, but if there is a question about wood, he is the master :thmbup:

[MikePinchico]

Thank you I appreciate your feedback

[superberry]

Are you going to put these at the front edge of the tee box? How about doing a second one that has distance on it, then you'll have both front edges marked and important info prominently displayed.

If you have multiple tees per hole, I'd suggest coloring the numbers with the color-coded tee level (i.e. blue, red, white, etc).

Personal dedication and effort is what really brings disc golf out of the ranks of a flip flop flinging sport for slackers.

[prerube]

If your holes are longer than 400 feet you can make smaller sticks with distance to the basket. I have seen this at Nevin and a few other courses.

[MikePinchico]

I have a lot of responses from our local people as to where they will be in relation to the tee pad. I would say the majority would like them toward the back of the tee pad, but I think that it would look funny. There are many holes that are over 400' but the issue is that the course is also ball golf course so placing these markers would most likely piss off the regular golfers.
At this point in time there is only one tee pad and one basket per hole. This might soon change because the owners are making more money from DG than ball golf and said they are considering just having DGers.
As to making the distances on another log. That will be put on my to do list but cannot be done in time for our big tourney.
So the main question: Where in your opinion should the markers be in relation to the tee pad? I was thinking front left just tot he side of the pad.

[superberry]

Depends on what kind of pads you have. If an type of natural material in which the front edge is not obvious, then install them in front. If you have concrete or mats, then install in the back or even halfway up on either side to avoid interference with run-ups from either side.

[MikePinchico]

They are cement tee pads so I think putting the signs in the middle would be a good idea.

Update on progress: I talked to woodcutter and he recommended using linseed oil for treating the wood. I put the first layer on the ends and only 3 more applications before oiling the sides. It looks really nice but it will take some time.
P.S. my chainsaw is not starting and I still have two logs to cut and carve. I hope my saw isn't screwed up.

[woodcutter]

This guy from Jackl will lend you one.
http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af190/woodcutr/27b45598-d131-4637-8c66-3fbcec8685b3_Thumb.jpg

[MikePinchico]

I will need that number ASAP. He seems like he can rip wood like nobody's business.:p

[MikePinchico]

Linseed oil takes a lot of work but will look very nice in the end. Here are the pictures of the progress:
13133
13134

[MikePinchico]

Signs ready to go to the course:
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13203

[SmoothSailor]

These look great! I'm lurking this forum looking at different ideas for a course I hope to one day build :)

[DWill]

For exterior wood finish, a much better alternative to polyurethane, is a Marine Varnish like this (http://www.amazon.com/Waterlox-Original-Marine-Tung-Finish/dp/B001P99C4U). Polyurethane isn't really designed to work outdoors. Mineral oil is also too light weight for outdoor use and would have to be applied too frequently. The Marine Varnish is going to be more expensive for sure.

HTH