Proper Natural Tees?

[Stud Muffin]

Originally Posted by Jerry Gotcher

I often bend my arm back like that just to freak my neighbors out.

[shoe59]

Ask Superberry (Tim from Winter Park), he might have some advice for you. I think he's talked about it before on DGCR if you search a little harder, but they use crushed rock/gravel to pack down... I don't know the process though.

[Stud Muffin]

Originally Posted by shoe59

they use crushed rock/gravel to pack down... I don't know the process though.

Once you are at this point, you may as well concrete.

But if you are determined to not use concrete, first, avoid any river rock no matter how small, they never pack in.

You can use mostly anything, but always remember the smaller the stone, the better the compression. If you are going to cover with carpet, you could use limestone, but the powder really gets everywhere so I would avoid it. Depending on cost in the area, Millings, which is ground up Asphalt, packs quite well, is not too messy, and can usually be purchased very inexpensive, especially if the local state is tearing out any streets/highways.

Still, by the time you frame the area, add and compress the stone/filler, lay the carpet, you may as well have just filled it with concrete and be done with it.

[kenjiac]

What is the need for natural tees? Is it a money issue or an appearance issue? If it's an appearance issue and money is not the problem. Google permeable pavers. There's a few different ones out there but they are a little pricey. http://www.paversearch.com/permeable-pavers-types.htm They sit under the surface and you can plant grass on them and they won't rut.

[Stud Muffin]

Originally Posted by kenjiac

What is the need for natural tees? Is it a money issue or an appearance issue? If it's an appearance issue and money is not the problem. Google permeable pavers. There's a few different ones out there but they are a little pricey. http://www.paversearch.com/permeable-pavers-types.htm They sit under the surface and you can plant grass on them and they won't rut.

[SmoothSailor]

Its not about the time it takes, but the money it takes. The crushed stone seems to be what looks like our best option at this point. Plus, if we happen to want to move the tees around at a later date, this will move easier than concrete.

Also, in regards to comments about ruts and roots and lower course ratings, this thread is to help prevent all of these things. No ruts, no roots, happy players.

[Aim For The Chains]

Originally Posted by Goatman

Wood chips. Sometimes you can get them from a tree trimming service for free. I had a course on a farm I used to own that only required tees to be "remulched" once a year. Divots are easy to refill if you use plenty of chips at each tee.

FINE ground/chopped chips are the key. Almost sawdust like and even some hay around the perimeter to help aid any erosion issues.

[gotcha]

If you use crushed stone you will still have erosion and rut problems....but you will eliminate the mud issue. These type of natural tees with gravel/limestone/crush & run, etc. do require regular maintenance to smooth out the teeing surface. Don't knock the carpet idea without giving it a try. Hawk Hollow is the first place I saw carpet utilized as a tee pad and it works perfectly with no erosion issues at all. See images below from Hawk Hollow:

[Johnny Betts]

Originally Posted by Jerry Gotcher

If you use crushed stone you will still have erosion and rut problems....but you will eliminate the mud issue. These type of natural tees with gravel/limestone/crush & run, etc. do require regular maintenance to smooth out the teeing surface. Don't knock the carpet idea without giving it a try. Hawk Hollow is the first place I saw carpet utilized as a tee pad and it works perfectly with no erosion issues at all. See images below from Hawk Hollow:

I agree with most crushed stone. The blue driveway mix we use requires a light raking only once a season. This is only on the pads that have direct sunlight, which is maybe 7 pads. In the past 5 years I have had to apply maybe a yard and a half of mix. I could easily do concrete, but the blue stuff is better in so many ways for a private course. For a public course you would need someone to go through once a month, but it is easy work. You have to time it with the weather. Wait till its nice and dry. Rake and level the day before a rain. The rain will pack it down and it will turn to a hard surface in less than a couple hours.

[SmoothSailor]

I assume there's sand or some other buffer between the carpet and raw ground?