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#11
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Mudjacking
They drill a 2" hole in the low side and pump a mud slurry in to force the slab up. They did a couple big slabs in front of my garage that had settled 4-6 inches. |
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#12
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Jack a tee? Would be way cheaper to wreck it and start over.
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#13
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That's what I was thinking. Let along trying to get the equipment to where ever the jacked up (no pun intended) tee is located.
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#14
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Ive leveled and moved 5-6 tees. I'll attach pictures in future posts. I raised the front of a 12 x 6' pad 18" with a 6 year old and my girlfriend.
Here are the steps to raise, level, and/or adjust the direction of a teepad. Materials: Pick up or car with hitch (not necessary) 3 ton car jack - 2 works better Comealong (if you are changing the direction of the pad) Tow chains or straps (if you are changing the direction of the pad) concrete blocks/bricks short lengths of 4x4s or 6x6's 4-6ea Dirt 4x4 / 6x6 or other retaining wall material (including drill and rebar) Prybar (only if changing pad direction) shovels 1. Dig trench infront of pad the length of the car jack. Perpendicular from front face of pad. 2. Dig under pad extending trench 12" under front of pad. 3. Place in jack and jack pad up to a few inches above level making sure to place 4x4's under pad incase jack fails. ------------------------------------------ If changing pad direction: Lower pad onto wooden bracing (4x4s or 6x6's) using car, truck, comealongs, or prybars re-align raised pad. RE-jack pad to remove wood continue below: ------------------------------------------ 4. Level areas and place block and bricks under pad 5. Lower pad, check level, adjust for issues, re-lower 6. Jam dirt under pad with shovels and pack it in with the back end of the shovel until dirt no longer is able to fill the void. 7. Your pad will now be raised at the front or back and you should prepare the area around it to prevent erosion or injury 8. With 4x4, 6x6, etc frame an area on 3 sides of the raised end up to level with the pad. 2-3ft before the raised part 1' wider than the pad. 9. Fill with dirt, pack, and cover with gravel. Pictures coming.
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#15
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Apparently you also need a Papillion named Wicket, forgot he helped with both.
First photo (Bailey Road Park) raised the front about 18" and to the right 18". Second and third (Reedy Creek) raised about 12"
__________________
150+ discs for sale http://www.dgcoursereview.com/forums...ad.php?t=62552 50+ more! http://www.dgcoursereview.com/forums...80#post1576180 Last edited by 1978; 06-12-2012 at 01:58 PM. |
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#16
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PM me if you have questions or want advice on moving tee-pads. We've moved quite a few while prepping for Worlds.
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#17
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The only issue with raising them is you can risk cracking or breaking them further. All depends on where the mesh is in them. I know it can be done without breaking, but there is always a chance.
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#18
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Mesh? How are you pouring teepads?
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#19
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The same way we pour any flat work on city property. 4" minimum with 3000 psi mix set on a min. of 2" compacted base and with 6ga 6x6 concrete mesh reinforcement. Those are the basic requirements for all flat work done in the city. Doesn't matter what it is and parks make no difference. Same specs. Done literally millions of square feet like that. And yes, I am a concrete contractor.
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#20
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WE don't use mesh, but then again, we do things as cheaply (cost) as possible. Poured over 200 pads in the last 3 years, basically like what you mention but without the mesh. We've had to move a few and they hold up well. Jack up from the front, wrap a tow chain around them and roll them across logs like the egyptians did... The only one we broke fell off the log on an incline. We patched it up well and it is as sturdy as ever 13' long instead of 12' :-)
Never had a pad break by jacking them out of the ground even though I know it is possible.
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