#21  
Old 06-13-2012, 09:49 AM
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Bultx1215 Bultx1215 is offline
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As long as they let you get away with it, and it is working, I'm sure it will be fine. You would not be allowed to do it that way here.

The mesh will give you long term durability. If possible, you should use it. Even 10ga mesh would be tons better than nothing. I can understand doing things as cheap as possible now, but in the long run, the reinforcement will save on repair/replacement.
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  #22  
Old 06-13-2012, 05:05 PM
Oklahyzer Oklahyzer is offline
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Absolutely use remesh...or rebar if nothing else. Pads are too much work and a pain to replace/repair to try to save a couple bucks by omitting the reinforcement. I'd say the same about a properly prepared base, but you can often get away fudging that a little. Considering the material and labor costs involved, it's false economy to make a pad that isn't reinforced, imho.
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  #23  
Old 07-02-2012, 01:10 AM
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wow the tilted tee pads on North Tahoe course were fixed when I went up and they were done with care and love of the game. Awesome tee pads. I wish I would of taken pictures.
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  #24  
Old 07-02-2012, 08:02 AM
1978 1978 is offline
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Quick question... doesnt rebar in the crete rot and rust and then actually make the pad less stable? I know they add rebar to bridges and things. I assumed this was for strength not for longevity. I've seen sidewalks torn up, and never seen rebar in that.

So is rebar for heavy load re-inforcement and stress reduction?... Does it positively or negatively effect life of the concrete when the load is minimal (a person) for teepads that are not driven over by mowers or park trucks.
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  #25  
Old 07-02-2012, 08:32 AM
1978 1978 is offline
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Oh, we are "tilting" a tee at Hornets Nest Park in Charlotte today maybe 4-5" high, I'll take some pictures and upload them, wont have enough gravel probably today to fill in the run-off but it will get done before worlds.
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  #26  
Old 07-02-2012, 08:51 AM
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Plankeye Plankeye is offline
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which hole?
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:04 AM
gdub58 gdub58 is offline
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There are two holes at Mt. Airy (10 and 15) that are long, downhill tee shots and the pads are tilted downhill too. Don't know if it is by design or not, but it messes me up - I seem to lose my balance on my follow-through more often than not.
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:09 AM
1978 1978 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plankeye View Post
which hole?
#18 Nest.

It is tilted down a bit. Also, when it rains, mud flows over the front half of it, been a bad representation of the course for years. Raising it will make a nice level throw and protect it from run-off. I have the materials to make a retaining wall infront giving you a little bit of runway instead of the slippery mud it used to be.
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  #29  
Old 07-02-2012, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1978 View Post
Quick question... doesnt rebar in the crete rot and rust and then actually make the pad less stable? I know they add rebar to bridges and things. I assumed this was for strength not for longevity. I've seen sidewalks torn up, and never seen rebar in that.

So is rebar for heavy load re-inforcement and stress reduction?... Does it positively or negatively effect life of the concrete when the load is minimal (a person) for teepads that are not driven over by mowers or park trucks.

Yes, the rebar can rust and rot out, but it usually only happens at a crack or on the very ends where water can get at it easier. It is for strength, but its also for longevity. It will hold the concrete together and prevent separation. Concrete cracks...that is a fact of life. Simply sitting there in the sun, heating up and cooling at the end of the day can crack a pad. Cracks without reinforcement can eventually turn into a failure without something in there to hold it together.


You don't need rebar in pads, you need mesh or remesh. 6x6 6 gauge mesh is the equivalent of #3 rebar on 18" centers. Mesh is made simply for speed and convenience. Its tons faster to cut a piece of mesh and lay it in than to cut and tie rebar in place. It does the same work. Mesh also keeps the random cracking down some since its got a much tighter grid....6"x6" compared to 18"x18". That will help with cracking big time. On most of our house slabs, we have to put mesh on top of the rebar on exposed areas like garage floors and patios....simply to help curb random cracks.

With flat work, meaning tee pads, sidewalks and driveways, it isn't the norm to not add some sort of reinforcement, either mesh or rebar. Has nothing to do with the useage..it all needs it at one level or another. It is there to hold the concrete together, plain and simple. How heavily it will be used dictates the level of reinforcement. Truck stop parking will get the heaviest and sidewalks the lightest...but they all should get it. If something didn't get reinforcement, it wasn't done correctly, plain and simple. Not saying it wouldn't work, because it maybe could. But for the longest lifespan and simply doing the job correctly, all flat work should get some sort of reinforcement.

For tee pads, all you need is 10 gauge 6x6 mesh. Its the lightest and cheapest. Just don't buy it at Home Depot without comparing the price to lumber yards or concrete supply houses first. The difference can be as little as a mere pittance or it will be double the cost. A full roll will be 5'x150'. Depending on your market, it can run around 90-100 clams at steel suppliers. One roll is more than enough to run 18 4x8 pads. It will actually do about 22.
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  #30  
Old 07-02-2012, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdub58 View Post
There are two holes at Mt. Airy (10 and 15) that are long, downhill tee shots and the pads are tilted downhill too. Don't know if it is by design or not, but it messes me up - I seem to lose my balance on my follow-through more often than not.
My two favorite holes on that course. No it wasn't by design.
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