Suggestions for discs and technique when big elevation change is present.

[TxDiscGolfBoy]

Originally Posted by smyith

whatever disc has a straighter more predictable fade for you works best. remember to throw parallel to the fairway not the tee. when throwing uphill add the height of the basket to the distance (ex., 230ft hole and 20ft up throw a 250ft throw.) when throwing down do the reverse. thats a general formula, not perfect but its a good point to start with and learn from experience after that.

Good thought. I'll definately keep that in mind.

[Apothecary]

Originally Posted by Disc Dog

I've not used the katana but do throw the Kite alot and I use my valk for long distances and an aero for shorts, when I need something understable.

So using these discs and letting them do their natural thing should gain the result I seek. HMMM.

holy crap im pretty sure you just compared a kite to a katana. stop doing that. the only thing remotely similar between those discs is the first silible of their names.

[Throwasurge]

I'm with you on shape of the fairway... and with Rhinesel about using less stable downhill, heavier weight helps and then use something stable enough uphill that you can lean on it and let it hook back into the hill, a little lighter usually helps gain height. Now for a tunnel shot uphill I get a lot of luck with a 174 Z Avenger SS uphill, the high speed turn lets you hyzer flip easier and the bigwing helps fight gravity.

I don't know how slow a disc you'd want to throw downhill it comes down to selection more than anything, keep it nose down and throw something that can arc, park and not roll. If you want it to drop like a stone you can throw it upside down. If you have a straight run at it you want discs understable and glidey, usually that means a bigger wing, my discpicks would be Meteor, Aero, ESP Buzzz, Voodoo.

[Disc Dog]

Originally Posted by smyith

whatever disc has a straighter more predictable fade for you works best. remember to throw parallel to the fairway not the tee. when throwing uphill add the height of the basket to the distance (ex., 230ft hole and 20ft up throw a 250ft throw.) when throwing down do the reverse. thats a general formula, not perfect but its a good point to start with and learn from experience after that.

Taking the example I gave in the first post play the hole as if it were 359'. Which takes into consideration the distance and elevation change. The opposite is true for downhill.

Number 17 at Campgaw is 405' with about a 100' elevation drop. So play it like a 305'.

Number 17

[Disc Dog]

Originally Posted by Apothecary

holy crap im pretty sure you just compared a kite to a katana. stop doing that. the only thing remotely similar between those discs is the first silible of their names.

Naw the kite is just the most understable thing around and I understand the katana is understable.

Point being what I think you are getting at is that a disc that can stay aloft easily and then has time to fade properly will get the better result than trying to force a overstable disc up or down.

[TxDiscGolfBoy]

I read an article somewhere that details the air pressure under and over the top and bottom of a disc. Throwing downhill creates more high pressure on top of the disc and throwing uphill creates more high pressure below the disc. When I find it I'll add it in a post on this thread. It explains it very well.....still lookin'.

The Katana is understable, but unless you're throwing it in lighter weights, it takes a decent arm to get the disc to do what it is rated at or what it is supposed to do.

[Oregon_Nole]

For me:

uphill- (shorter) Buzzz (longer) Eagle

downhill- (shorter) Wizard or Warlok (longer) Valk or Sidewinder

But it really all depends upon hole shape, wind, alternate routes, etc, etc, etc....

[MrDger]

Check out at about 4:40, perfect example of an extreme downhill elevation change. I threw a bunch of drives on this hole the first time I was there, and I found that you definitely didn't want to throw something overstable as the disc has so long to fade anyway. The throw at 4:40 was a light and flippy TL that I put way out to the right of the basket so it could come back at it.

[billnchristy]

100' and 150' elevation changes?? Really?

This is a 40' manlift, are you telling me the elevation of a 200' long hole (5x the length of this boom) is 4x the height of this boom? They call that a cliff.

[garublador]

Originally Posted by kanuga

and I found that you definitely didn't want to throw something overstable as the disc has so long to fade anyway.

That's really the big consideration when throwing downhill with a big elevation change. If you need any sort of distance or a straight shot, choosing something with less fade will keep you from ending up way left. Now if you can get a big hyzer in there where the angle of the disc doesn't change much that might help, too, but it requires some room.

Uphill it depends on the shot and just how uphill you're going. I find for extreme uphill shots that being able to throw high is better than being able to throw far. I can throw a spike hyzer higher than any other shot so I'll use that if the hill is really steep and some skip is OK. If it's more of a gradual hill and a long shot then a more understable/slower disc thrown high will be easier to use than a faster disc that will stall out if not thrown with a lot of nose down. I can throw a beat DX Teebird farther uphill than any other faster disc because I can throw it higher without it stalling out.