
|
|||||||
| Register | Members List | Social Groups |
| - View All Groups | ||
| - Your Group Messages | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
|
Seeing as it's a blizzard Ape it probably doesn't fly like a normal meathook ape, but it still probably has way too much fade to be very useful.
It really depends on how far you throw, if you max out at 350 or so I would say grab an Orc. If your max is closer to 375-400 grab a Nuke or a Boss, I prefer the Nuke though because the mold is way more consistent and when you buy a boss you can never really be sure of what you will get. |
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
|
If you truly care about getting the best form, get a neutral mid or fairway driver and practice til you drop. It will be frustrating and you will spend a lot of time throwing rollers and worm burners, but when you finally figure it out you won't NEED a meathook to compensate for bad form and will be less likely to injure yourself. Also, find and watch every video you can about proper forehand form and practice what you learn. I used to only be able to flick with Banshee's and bosses, and while the banshee IS a great flick disc, it's not great to learn with because the overstability masks your flaws. When I started playing tag league, I played with a guy that flicks a buzzz for nearly every shot under 300ft. Watching that midrange fly perfectly straight with no OAT whatsoever made me realize I had a ways to go. Moral - Do it right and be truly great instead of doing it wrong and limiting yourself.
__________________
Magic*Wizard*Zone*Roc*Gator*Trident*Shock*Amp Lefty bag - Magic*Wizard*Zone*Roc*Gator*Drone |
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
|
My drives are almost exclusively sidearm. My main driver is a Flick. Its VERY overstable and this can be a problem unless you get a good snap on it. With my noodle arm and undoubtedly poor technique,I can get my Flick out to 300'. That's course distance. Although it is wickedly overstable with practice the Flick can be taught to do more than simple spike hyzers. The Flick does not have much glide and generally when its done flying, it dies right where it lands. What I like best about the Flick is that its very dependable. Throw it properly and it goes exactly where you expect and want. Throw poorly it too goes right where you expect so its easy to find in the $hit. And its much slower than the Ape at about a speed 9.
I've had very good success with the Teebird thrown sidearm as well. I think any disc flies well sidearm, just a matter of technique.
__________________
"Inspiration, Grace, Transcendence." Phil Lesh SUPPORT PRIVATE COURSES! |
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
|
Eagle-X or Teebird
__________________
# of courses "deuced" -> 3 |
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
To the OP: You don't need to use the most overstable discs for forehands, despite popular myths you might hear. I throw forehand drives about 30% of the time, and upshots closer to 50%. I mostly use Z Buzzz/Wasp/Hornet for forehand throws inside 250ft, Star Beast/Orc for most controlled forehand drives, Pro Wraith if I need to get one out beyond 320ft. |
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
|
As others have said already an Eagle is a great flick disc
|
|
#18
|
||||
|
||||
|
striker, river, teebird, diamond (if you throw lighter stuff), buzzz fuse....that's some of what's in my fh bag....
|
|
#19
|
||||
|
||||
|
I like to use a really beat in Nuke OS for distance forehand shots, Firebird for meathook shots or a Predator for a little less hook, and for controlled forehands I use either a Buzzz, Zone, or Challenger
__________________
Omega-Challenger-Wizard-Buzzz-Wasp-Predator-Destroyer-Wraith CLICK HERE Mississippi State Disc Golf PDGA# 55520 |
|
#20
|
|||
|
|||
|
Destroyer, flow, firebird, FL, striker, teebird. The list goes on and on.
__________________
If only I could avoid the trees. |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
«
Previous Thread
|
Next Thread
»
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:13 PM.














