#41  
Old 12-28-2012, 06:32 PM
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All Day All Day is offline
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Buy a Vibram Ibex and all of your problems in the woods disappear.
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  #42  
Old 12-28-2012, 07:35 PM
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sloppydisc sloppydisc is offline
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Throw putters and neutral mids more in the woods. Get away from over stable drivers and mids that will skips, bounce and roll into the trees.
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  #43  
Old 12-28-2012, 08:55 PM
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U_NICED_ME U_NICED_ME is offline
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^^Sucks in the woods!!!

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  #44  
Old 01-15-2013, 05:11 PM
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DiscJunkee DiscJunkee is offline
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Made a post about this today! http://orbitdiscgolf.com/blog/techni...-in-the-woods/
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  #45  
Old 01-15-2013, 05:24 PM
dukdukgolf dukdukgolf is offline
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Think of the line you want the disc to take. I keep picturing it before i throw. Not just where you want the disc to end up,,,visualize the whole flight.
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  #46  
Old 01-15-2013, 05:35 PM
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trifocal trifocal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt O View Post
My mental approach to tightly wooded fairways: don't aim for the opening, aim for something beyond the opening.
\

I tend to play all my tee shots this way....aiming thru the target area.

And then I have a strange sort of mental picture of tee shots and longish fairway throws where I envision a series of hoops hanging in the air. Picture one of those cloth tunnels that dogs race thru at those dog agility tournaments. Or a giant Slinky thats about 5' in diameter. The opening to the hoop is somewhere 70-80 feet off the tee and the tunnel twists and turns to the shape of the shot I have in mind....flip, flex, TO, hyzer...whatever. The tunnel ends/feeds to a spot just above the basket. lol...kinda weird.
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  #47  
Old 01-18-2013, 05:29 PM
dpo2002 dpo2002 is offline
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use these three drivers:Beast for s-curves Sidewinder for rollers and smaller s-curves TeeBird for strait shots (put small anhyzer angel for strait results
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  #48  
Old 01-18-2013, 05:32 PM
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pablo.diablo pablo.diablo is offline
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I have heard a theory that its better to disc down and throw a mid/putter instead of a driver when going for tunnel shots...
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  #49  
Old 01-21-2013, 01:28 AM
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mx23ang mx23ang is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Mountains of NC!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keltik View Post
Get a Fuse (or a Comet) and a Polecat. and don't throw as hard.
good call on the comet! A must for NC woods golf
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  #50  
Old 01-21-2013, 01:36 AM
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mx23ang mx23ang is offline
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Great Woods Golf Advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dsplayname View Post
I play mostly tightly wooded courses( part of living in the south). It is a lot of mental game, but disc and line selection are key. Play conservative, focus on staying on the fairway rather than parking it on the green, keep it fun, and you'll start improving with every drive.
As far as throwing a solid drive in the woods:

work on not running up. A lot of times, I'll only take the single x-step, or I'll stand still with just the follow-through step forwards( much like I throw mids). It helps to work on accuracy and getting a good snap and release.

Always visualize the line and the landing zone before you throw. Keep it in your mind as you throw too. A big part of this is knowing the capabilities of the discs you throw, and how you use them.

And then the disc selection. I throw mainly RHBH, but will throw FH or thumbers as needed. For this, we'll keep it to BH shots though.
I suggest something like a River. It's relatively slow for a driver, great at control/shaping lines, and has a lot of glide to give you more D. Also, it doesn't skip away like a lot of faster discs do...especially on leaves, pine straw, or other wooded terrain. It comes in durable plastics and doesn't beat in much, so you can learn it and it'll stay the same through the course of many many tree hits. Because there will be a lot of those.
Just focus on a smooth, clean throw, hitting your line- not the basket, and laying it up for an easy approach.

Then work on mid-range recovery shots from the rough. This is my strong suit in the game, and is crucial to shaving strokes as you learn the woods. This part is all about personal preference, but I like to aim for dropping the disc into the basket without hitting chains. This conservative approach usually ends one of two ways:
Either I hit that birdie without splashing the chains, or the disc drops right up under the basket for an easy par.
Be happy with pars and don't try to force any birdies -- let them come naturally as you progress.
You have pretty much hit the nail on the head with helping your woods game. I play much better on wooded courses largely because of recovery shots with middys whether its a step out backhand or more than likely in my case a step out flick with a broad range of discs from a flippy ass flat top roc to the stable gator. Step out flicks are really more important for recovery shots imo tho. Think about it, most players (myself included) finish left of the fairway off the tee. From here your lie (in NC Woods Golf) is either gonna be wedged up against a tree or one immediatly in front of you severly impacting the line of a RHBH throw. So what have I adopted? A step-out flick that finishes left with my roc and deff right with my gator. Another thing to remember in NC is two crappy shots and one great one you can still make par
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