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-   -   Noobie Dye Question Thread (https://www.dgcoursereview.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30159)

agent_peebody 02-24-2011 12:23 AM

Noobie Dye Question Thread
 
Use this to ask your "noobie" dye questions instead of making an entire thread for just one question about dying in general.

:)

xJFK 02-24-2011 12:33 AM

what's the best way to remask a multicolor dye?

jivey311 02-26-2011 11:04 AM

can i dye scarlet red on a yellow star plastic, and will be stay RED? Or will the yellowish tint be too much for the red to show up?

burntneuron 02-26-2011 12:36 PM

The red should show up just fine, might have to go a little longer than usual, but it'll be fine to take the red.

bigmanbailye 02-26-2011 04:51 PM

xJFK,

cover the entire disc in clear contact paper/vinyl after your first dye (assuming you have taken off the old vinyl and just have bear disc again) and then cut on the disc the area you wish to dye next. Repeat for any other colors.

NoThingness 02-27-2011 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigmanbailye (Post 724920)
xJFK,

cover the entire disc in clear contact paper/vinyl after your first dye (assuming you have taken off the old vinyl and just have bear disc again) and then cut on the disc the area you wish to dye next. Repeat for any other colors.

You can also cut a piece of vinyl big enough to cover the area you want to remask if you don't want to use a new sheet for every colour

ZBoazMobster 02-27-2011 08:40 AM

How do you convert a regular photo (say, of a face) to an image ready for disc?

BarkBuster 02-27-2011 02:23 PM

Does a plotter actually cut the stencil for you? or does it just print it onto the vinyl??

agent_peebody 02-27-2011 02:24 PM

the plotters cut the vinyl for you :)

BarkBuster 02-27-2011 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZBoazMobster (Post 725518)
How do you convert a regular photo (say, of a face) to an image ready for disc?

You could always photoshop it to display the image using only 2 colors (like a solid black stencil with white in the lighter areas) or 3 or 4 colors if you were doing a multiple layer dye... then again this is .02 from a guy that cant dye very well :)

basketcase15 02-27-2011 02:27 PM

good thread !

burntneuron 02-27-2011 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZBoazMobster (Post 725518)
How do you convert a regular photo (say, of a face) to an image ready for disc?

I can give you the brief photoshop version, can't talk to any other editors.

Depends exactly what you're doing with it. But if you're referring to making a stencil out of a picture, you'll need to desaturate the image first (basically make it black and white or greyscale) then use the image->adjustments->threshold and then play with the slider.

There's some other tweaking you can do, adjusting levels, color balance, things like that before/after you greyscale the image so the threshold adjustment will come out better. That's a quick overview that should get you going, just takes some messing around with to get the hang of.

BarkBuster 02-27-2011 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by agent_peebody (Post 725880)
the plotters cut the vinyl for you :)

are you f'ing serious???????

haha.. wow.. i might have to pick one of those up!!! That would make it sooo much less stressful! I have such a hard time keeping my curved lines consistent.

DelightSquad 02-28-2011 12:22 PM

I'm doing a bottom stamp with cold dye by pooling the dye in the disc.
how long should it sit for a solid set and is there anything else i should know about doing it this way?

CarpeDiem 02-28-2011 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarkBuster (Post 725889)
are you f'ing serious???????

haha.. wow.. i might have to pick one of those up!!! That would make it sooo much less stressful! I have such a hard time keeping my curved lines consistent.

yup thats what i thought. Then i went and looked at the prices for a low end plotter, and were talking like $700. :\ Unless i dont know about a small desk top type of some sort, they are expensive

NoThingness 02-28-2011 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DelightSquad (Post 727292)
I'm doing a bottom stamp with cold dye by pooling the dye in the disc.
how long should it sit for a solid set and is there anything else i should know about doing it this way?

make sure to mask out the inside of the rim unless you want it dyed as well. You can heat the dye up if you want and spoon it into the bottom of the disc to get quicker results. You are best to check the dye every few mins until the desired colour is achieved. This can be done by picking up the disc and giving it a slight tilt to expose some of the plastic. This will take much longer with a cold dye.

Also you can mask out the bottom of the disc in area that you wish not to be dyed.

DelightSquad 02-28-2011 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoThingness (Post 727391)
make sure to mask out the inside of the rim unless you want it dyed as well. You can heat the dye up if you want and spoon it into the bottom of the disc to get quicker results. You are best to check the dye every few mins until the desired colour is achieved. This can be done by picking up the disc and giving it a slight tilt to expose some of the plastic. This will take much longer with a cold dye.

Also you can mask out the bottom of the disc in area that you wish not to be dyed.

thanks, good advice. I've got a sheet down in the with a design that's poorly cut:thmbdown:. It's been in for 90 min cold.

burntneuron 02-28-2011 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DelightSquad (Post 727292)
I'm doing a bottom stamp with cold dye by pooling the dye in the disc.
how long should it sit for a solid set and is there anything else i should know about doing it this way?

When I do a bottom dye, I heat up a pan of just plain water and keep that warm and float the disc in it, then spoon in warm dyes, my dye times are about equivalent this way.

Flamble 02-28-2011 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarpeDiem (Post 727385)
yup thats what i thought. Then i went and looked at the prices for a low end plotter, and were talking like $700. :\ Unless i dont know about a small desk top type of some sort, they are expensive

US Cutter has 12" and 24" options for under $300
http://www.uscutter.com/Vinyl-Cutters--Value_c_4.html

NoThingness 02-28-2011 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burntneuron (Post 727667)
When I do a bottom dye, I heat up a pan of just plain water and keep that warm and float the disc in it, then spoon in warm dyes, my dye times are about equivalent this way.

Pot of water is a great idea! I will do this on my next bottom plate dye. Thanks

gripNrip91 02-28-2011 06:08 PM

could you dye your disc when the dye is at room temp?, will it just take longer or will it not turn out?

burntneuron 02-28-2011 06:39 PM

Not a problem, the only thing to be careful of is if you've recently dyed on the top, the heat can extract the fresher dye and you'll get a blotchy effect on the undyed areas. A quick mask will prevent this.

koogs 02-28-2011 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burntneuron (Post 727667)
When I do a bottom dye, I heat up a pan of just plain water and keep that warm and float the disc in it, then spoon in warm dyes, my dye times are about equivalent this way.

When working with paste, mine seem to take forever. Would this idea also help speed up that process, just float the disc top-side up?

burntneuron 02-28-2011 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by koogs (Post 727882)
When working with paste, mine seem to take forever. Would this idea also help speed up that process, just float the disc top-side up?

I'd imagine it would although I've never dyed with paste. The heat does help the dye take to the plastic, so I'd imagine the additional heat would help speed up your process. I've heard of people baking at very low temperatures in an over, around 120-130, but never tried that either though. I'd imagine if you could find a way to heat your paste up initially that would also help.

koogs 03-01-2011 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burntneuron (Post 727979)
I'd imagine it would although I've never dyed with paste. The heat does help the dye take to the plastic, so I'd imagine the additional heat would help speed up your process. I've heard of people baking at very low temperatures in an over, around 120-130, but never tried that either though. I'd imagine if you could find a way to heat your paste up initially that would also help.

I tried it only a couple times, when I had only a small area to dye, instead of remasking the whole disc, but I was so discouraged by the lack of progress, I gave up. I always started with warm paste, but it cooled so quickly, I guess that's why the process never worked for me.

agent_peebody 03-02-2011 07:34 PM

for those of you with a USCutter plotter, will the blades for a Cri-Cut work in the plotter? if so, i can get my hands on a bunch of cheap blades/cartridges if anyone is interested.

philman 03-03-2011 05:41 AM

Hmmm never seen a blade for a cri-cut. You have any pics?

agent_peebody 03-03-2011 12:01 PM

not right now, i'll try to get some later

Jabanger 03-03-2011 12:07 PM

Not sure if this is a good enough pic but here it is.

http://www.educatorsoutlet.com/image...s/117928DD.jpg

agent_peebody 03-03-2011 12:07 PM

yeah, see, they look very similar!

here's the ones i use in my uscutter:

http://www.uscutter.com/thumbnail.as...axx=300&maxy=0

philman 03-03-2011 01:42 PM

Hmmm. They look similar.

Jabanger 03-03-2011 02:20 PM

You could always buy a blade from Joann's as a test and return it. That way you can see if it will work and won't be out any money unless you forget to return it lol. You know with all the dyes you have to do. lol

yawpstang64 03-03-2011 02:58 PM

they do look extremely similar, but they would need to be precisely the same size

after looking around online, a couple places said that roland blades fit cricuts, so I guess it would work the other way as well.

someone try it out!

*also on a similar note: Does anyone use anything other than a 45 degree blade?

SippiSteve 03-04-2011 09:54 PM

Any advice for painting with dye? ei, what kind of dye should I use (or mixture) and how do i get it to set?

agent_peebody 03-05-2011 12:34 AM

i don't do the paint-on method. sorry.

BarkBuster 03-09-2011 01:44 PM

How can I get this type of fading/coloring onto a disc???

http://proguitarshop.com/andyscorner.../SRV_STRAT.jpg

Im actually going to try and recreate the original version of his guitar (with all of the imperfections and scuffs, etc...) Any Idea how I could do the sunburst? And also any ideas on how to get a nice woodgrain?

afroflow 03-09-2011 11:25 PM

dye and disc combinations
 
I've tried dying a scarlet red disc before with a yellow rit, but had no luck whatsoever. the yellow just didn't want to take; is there a way to do a lighter color of dye, on the darker color disc?

tylersheehy 03-09-2011 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SippiSteve (Post 734683)
Any advice for painting with dye? ei, what kind of dye should I use (or mixture) and how do i get it to set?

i use 1 bottle of rit to 1/4-1/8 bottle of acetone(measured in rit bottle). mix it and i paint it on with a foam brush, let sit for 30 seconds to a minute, wash off and re apple if i want darker

yawpstang64 03-10-2011 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by afroflow (Post 742625)
I've tried dying a scarlet red disc before with a yellow rit, but had no luck whatsoever. the yellow just didn't want to take; is there a way to do a lighter color of dye, on the darker color disc?

not really; dye doesn't go on top of a color like paint would, so you can't really cover up or lighten any existing color

Dan Howard 03-10-2011 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarkBuster (Post 741511)
Any Idea how I could do the sunburst?

The sunburst can be done a couple of ways but there is no way you'll get that black fade without an airbrush (IMHO).


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