What is different about the plastic in the s-line gremlin? It doesn't seem to be your typical s-line to me or anyone I show it too. Also if you could make other molds with that blend I'd be very very happy :)


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Good question. X-Outs have been restocked in small quantities here and there. We are saving our special ones for our upcoming Mystery Box release soon. Keep an eye out!!

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P3x is going to be quite the crowd pleaser . No details to spread on that topic unfortunately.

The current run is 7th and will be just what you are looking for in stability.

Hit up your local stores and have them give us a shout! We are increasing our efforts to get dealers the things they need, or haven’t thought about getting yet and now is a good opportunity for them to do so. If you need help pointing them in the right direction, please shoot us an email at the store and we can help. I do agree with what you said above as well.

Correct

These CD3’s were definitely two batches and labeled as such. The first runs were technically the Konopiste CD3 and were followed by the First Run release. These discs were not released until the Thrower edition which were second runs. The scheduled FR release then occurred and the ones we had been saving were then set loose. I hope that helps.

Good points. The unofficial “DD3” which would be commonly speculated, will be exactly that. We have some other projects to complete first and then will set after something like that. We have been working with the idea of a more HSS DDx but as said before, just need to iron out a few details and release a few scheduled molds beforehand.

That’s a fair request. Unfortunately, not all tops and bottoms of discs are compatible. We would surely like to create some sort of DD3 but have just a couple of projects to finalize first before we head down that path. We are very happy to hear that you like the feel of the CD3 and we feel the same way too. Our goal is to create more hits like the DDx but have a slightly deeper rim so it is more comfortable for everyone.

Well, let me give you a quick breakdown of my bag for starters. I recommend keeping your bag as simple as possible and diversifying the loadout of plastics amongst the molds in there.

P2: 2 P-Lines for putting, 1 D-Line for throwing, 1 S-Line for straighter throws and upshots, and 1 C-Line for maximum stability throws and upshots
MD: 1 C-Line
MD3: 2 Metal flakes for most shots and versatility, 1 Glow for more reliability in windy spots
FD: 2 C-Lines for most shots and reliability, 1 S-Line for straighter lines and rollers, 1 D-Line for anhyzers and rollers
FD3: 1 S-Line for straighter power hyzers, 1 C-Line for more overstable shots and thumbers
PD: 1 S-Line for straight consistent shots with some play in the air, 2 C-Line ones with varying stability depending on how much wind there is out there or how much it needs to fade
DD: 2 S-Lines (one beat up one new) for reliable max D shots
DD2: 1 S-Line for the occasional big D forehand or longer backhands
PD2: 1 S-Line for straighter power shots and 1 C-Line for max stability
1 mini for super sweet marking skillz

I hope that helps a bit or answers your question somewhat. I know everyone is different.

I am sure there is a list somewhere but am not sure on the location

We are glad you like your CD3, assuming acting like a Wraith is good for you. We are happy with the way the DDx and CD3 turned out and have gotten very positive feedback on both so far.

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We have definitely talked extensively about making something similar to the Max. Obviously, Eagle preaches about it and throws it on some crazy lines that some of us could only dream of. We have elected to go with a few more molds that will be good for everyone first and then proceed again with discussions about a disc like that. You are correct, though, in saying that the Max is more stable than a PD2.

Those Swirly Huk PD2’s are definitely one of the most OS versions to date. The luster and MF ones are certainly in the same ball park and are honestly too difficult to tell which one is more overstable. The only difference is that the Swirl ones just have a considerable amount of dome compared to the new runs of luster and MF.

Other than the P-Line, G-Line is what will give PD2 throwers the most distance out of the disc. Although it gets kind of floppy in the summer, G-Line will be very useful if you can handle the gummy nature of the disc. The new S-Lines at the moment are fantastic as well.

If you want a less stable luster PD2, seek out the 170-172 ones. Those are what you are looking for. Same thing goes for the metal flakes as well. Those discs in particular are long bombers and are not freakishly overstable. Take my word for it.

Luster made the PD2 a piggy PD2 like the others. And you are right in saying that not all luster molds are made more stable by being made in luster. Two molds that come to mind are the PD and P2. Those discs tended to be a bit less stable in luster and we were happy with that as well.

How is the dome on the current run of C-line pd2s?

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The S-Line GM was more of a champy-star plastic that we commonly refer to as hybrid. Though this term came to be much later than this disc was made, it can be combined in to the same phrase. Most GM's were more on the champion side than true S-Line plastic and were only unique to this mold alone. Though our versions of hybrids still differ quite a bit from what the GM was, it provides at least some clarity as to what we are talking about.

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The dome on the current run of C-PD2 is very mild. Some of the lighter ones are flat-topped the rest of them have a very gentle dome on them. They feel fantastic too.

I usually throw 168's with mild dome. Would I be able to find one of those, and hows the stability of the current run?

How can I tell it's a new run of S-line pd2s? Just curious...

will DM ever produce soft d line p2's like the first runs?