#21  
Old 06-01-2018, 01:01 AM
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MarkDSM MarkDSM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casey 1988 View Post
Before you do that put on some of the Water Seal stuff.
Thompson’s WaterSeal brand and imitators is the devil. Only argument needed against it is the wax and alcohol content. Worse than nothing.


.., inane thing that drives me nuts, pure fraud
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Last edited by MarkDSM; 06-01-2018 at 01:03 AM.
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  #22  
Old 06-01-2018, 01:58 AM
Casey 1988 Casey 1988 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkDSM View Post
Thompson’s WaterSeal brand and imitators is the devil. Only argument needed against it is the wax and alcohol content. Worse than nothing.


.., inane thing that drives me nuts, pure fraud
No the pure fraud is the Flex Seal. The other brands that make a product like that are better and actual liquid rubber based paint. The Flex Seal is just little rubber chunks in the spray fine enough to work with a can or fine enough to no notice in the paint on version.

Use the Clear coat to protect then or use the Waterproofing compound for bathroom stuff, however that is a red color so some house paint can be used on top of that to cover the color if desired. I say leave the bridge red, so it stands out and people can find it easy.
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  #23  
Old 06-01-2018, 02:00 AM
Casey 1988 Casey 1988 is offline
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Originally Posted by DavidSauls View Post
I'd rather have a handrail than any of the other solutions offered. Even if the bridge gets a little slick.

Then again, our course has 6 or 8 wood bridges, none of which have handrails.

One thing that helps a bit is gaps between the treads. Particularly if the treads are 2x4s or 2x6s, so they have sharp edges.
hand rail is nice if the bridge is not a skinny bridge. The skinny bridge would then have body size restrictions.
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  #24  
Old 06-01-2018, 08:25 AM
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DavidSauls DavidSauls is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casey 1988 View Post
hand rail is nice if the bridge is not a skinny bridge. The skinny bridge would then have body size restrictions.
Paradoxically, the skinny bridges need them the most. Less room for error if you slip or misstep.

I was counseling someone building a deck on his house last week, as he was pondering the width of the steps, and whether to put a handrail on them. We discussed that very thing---the wider the step, the less chance of missing it, and the better you can manage without a rail.

Of course, on the bridges, handrails add a measure of complexity, and may not be an option at all. I'm not saying they should use them---only that, among the options, they are the best if they can be done.
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  #25  
Old 06-01-2018, 08:34 AM
DoWork DoWork is offline
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We use very rough cut lumber. The rough grain in the wood works great to provide traction and we use trees as the footer beams- the slightly unevenness of the boards also gives edges to get traction on.

Also bleach works awesome on taking away slimy algae.
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  #26  
Old 06-01-2018, 08:51 AM
DoWork DoWork is offline
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Originally Posted by DoWork View Post
We use very rough cut lumber. The rough grain in the wood works great to provide traction and we use trees as the footer beams- the slightly unevenness of the boards also gives edges to get traction on.

Also bleach works awesome on taking away slimy algae.

Forgot to say that if you’re working with a sawmill, be sure to ask for hemlock if they don’t suggest it. Very inexpensive, lasts a long time and is light/easy to work with. Also the rougher the cut the better the traction.

I’ve also seen construction staples used as traction aids- just get the hammer-type staple gun and throw down a few staples in the bad spots. You’ll go through a box of staples pretty quick but it works awesome, especially if you offset their alignment in a pattern like diamond plate.
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  #27  
Old 06-01-2018, 08:54 AM
biscoe biscoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sisyphus View Post
I've seen surplus shingles used on stair treads. Might need occasional replacement, but so would sand/paint...
Shingles work great.
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  #28  
Old 06-01-2018, 09:58 AM
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Aim For The Chains Aim For The Chains is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casey 1988 View Post
I say go with the Truck Bed Liner stuff. That will last longer then the textured paint.
Not on wood and costs a lot. You can add texture to many outdoor paints.

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  #29  
Old 06-01-2018, 09:55 PM
Casey 1988 Casey 1988 is offline
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Originally Posted by Aim For The Chains View Post
Not on wood and costs a lot. You can add texture to many outdoor paints.
Really want it to last, the House paint the Outer stuff works not the Pimer for that or they have stuff called deck paint since the 1990's in a few neutral colors.
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