#111  
Old 06-24-2018, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by sidewinder22 View Post
I'm not rounding unless I'm hugging.

Mind = blown

This explains what I’ve seen lately in Mcbeth, eagle and maybe schusterick. They turn their core back into the backswing with the elbow still bent like it would appear to be rounding but once they unfold the elbow and turn the shoulders back, it’s all on line.



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  #112  
Old 07-13-2018, 03:41 PM
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Tried the door frame drill today. I notice that my front foot isn't planted closed/staggered enough, but that should be an easy fix next time I drill it. But my question is how deep should the hips turn. I turn them back somewhat first, then deeper after that, you can probably notice the difference in the video. When they're turned deeper, I feel a lot of tension in the hip/butt/hammys. Also seems like I can turn the shoulders deeper that way.





Here's a standstill after.




Here's an x-step, looks like more of the same. Crossover step I think should be shorter/smaller and I need to leave the disc in place more rather than physically reach it back. Hershyzer/door frams 3 will probably help?

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  #113  
Old 07-13-2018, 04:28 PM
slowplastic slowplastic is online now
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You shouldn't be able to weight the front foot with the door frame drill. I think you're turning your knee too much inside and getting it within your hips to allow your heel to touch. You should be hanging more. Knee just outside hip so your femur feels almost straight down but it's slightly angled to catch you. You can see this same knee turn on your standstill.

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  #114  
Old 07-13-2018, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by slowplastic View Post
You shouldn't be able to weight the front foot with the door frame drill. I think you're turning your knee too much inside and getting it within your hips to allow your heel to touch. You should be hanging more. Knee just outside hip so your femur feels almost straight down but it's slightly angled to catch you. You can see this same knee turn on your standstill.


Thanks this makes sense. Just to clarify, you mean my front knee, correct?


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  #115  
Old 07-13-2018, 04:59 PM
Mocheez Mocheez is offline
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Originally Posted by Lumberjack504 View Post
Here's an x-step, looks like more of the same. Crossover step I think should be shorter/smaller and I need to leave the disc in place more rather than physically reach it back. Hershyzer/door frams 3 will probably help?
Try Kick the Can. Your head should be above your left foot when it plants in the x-step. You are tilted back and off balance at that point.

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  #116  
Old 07-13-2018, 05:10 PM
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Thanks this makes sense. Just to clarify, you mean my front knee, correct?
Yes. It should feel like you can drop straight to the femur, and not like you are winding/unwinding the leg. You'll feel more forward and like the weight is wanting to roll forward comparatively, but the leg will catch you.

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  #117  
Old 07-13-2018, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Lumberjack504 View Post
Tried the door frame drill today. I notice that my front foot isn't planted closed/staggered enough, but that should be an easy fix next time I drill it. But my question is how deep should the hips turn. I turn them back somewhat first, then deeper after that, you can probably notice the difference in the video. When they're turned deeper, I feel a lot of tension in the hip/butt/hammys. Also seems like I can turn the shoulders deeper that way.


Here's a standstill after.

Here's an x-step, looks like more of the same. Crossover step I think should be shorter/smaller and I need to leave the disc in place more rather than physically reach it back. Hershyzer/door frams 3 will probably help?
DFD - Your front foot/instep and shoulder and hand should all be directly inline to your trajectory. That means your front foot needs to move over about a foot left and your rear foot about half foot left so staggered another 6" closed. Probably also need to move the rear foot targetward about 6-12" to turn your shoulders further back and deweight the front foot some. The rear femur shouldn't really turn away from target like you are doing in DFD, just focus on leveraging hips/weight laterally targetward from instep. I agree with what SP is saying, with the caveat that the front toes can be weighted, and the heel can tap the ground, but the heel can't fully crush the can yet, until you release from the door frame. And you shouldn't swing forward yet until the can is crushed through the top of the backswing/transition. That should help you setup your stance and width in the DFD.

Standstill and x step - You are little too bendy in the knees and you are going a little over the top your legs in backswing and forward. Need to stiffen your rear knee up at the start of the backswing, then flex. Front knee/foot needs to hang more from the hip in your stride. You are picking up your foot instead of slinging it. Getting more upright on rear leg helps to allow your front leg to hang more. Your feet are separating way faster than your knees, should be separating more lateral and together/stacked. Moving your stance/rear foot forward in the DFD should help, and as MoCheez said Kick the Can, and Herhsyzer 2 lead butt and hold front foot back on wall.

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  #118  
Old 07-14-2018, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by sidewinder22 View Post
DFD - Your front foot/instep and shoulder and hand should all be directly inline to your trajectory. That means your front foot needs to move over about a foot left and your rear foot about half foot left so staggered another 6" closed. Probably also need to move the rear foot targetward about 6-12" to turn your shoulders further back and deweight the front foot some. The rear femur shouldn't really turn away from target like you are doing in DFD, just focus on leveraging hips/weight laterally targetward from instep. I agree with what SP is saying, with the caveat that the front toes can be weighted, and the heel can tap the ground, but the heel can't fully crush the can yet, until you release from the door frame. And you shouldn't swing forward yet until the can is crushed through the top of the backswing/transition. That should help you setup your stance and width in the DFD.

Standstill and x step - You are little too bendy in the knees and you are going a little over the top your legs in backswing and forward. Need to stiffen your rear knee up at the start of the backswing, then flex. Front knee/foot needs to hang more from the hip in your stride. You are picking up your foot instead of slinging it. Getting more upright on rear leg helps to allow your front leg to hang more. Your feet are separating way faster than your knees, should be separating more lateral and together/stacked. Moving your stance/rear foot forward in the DFD should help, and as MoCheez said Kick the Can, and Herhsyzer 2 lead butt and hold front foot back on wall.
Many thanks. I'm glad I posted a video of me doing the drill so I could get some pointers on how to better understand the proper positions and takeaways from it.

I've attached two images here re:deepness of the pelvis swivel into the rear leg. I'm wondering which one I should be going for. My intuition tells me I should be turned more deeply into it based on my shoulders having more access to turn more deeply as well into the backswing. See: "not as deep" and "deeper".
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Not as deep.jpg (113.1 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg Deeper.jpg (110.0 KB, 10 views)
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  #119  
Old 07-14-2018, 01:33 AM
slowplastic slowplastic is online now
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The deeper one is better, but you need to make sure you maintain leverage into the rear hip and through the rear instep to ground. You can have your rear foot pointed slightly more backwards as well, like 130ish from target.

You likely took these pictures earlier, but again your front foot's heel is on the ground which should not be possible from the door frame drill. This is before you crush the can.

When getting used to this in throws you don't need to turn super deep into the rear hip though, as long as you are getting that feeling and maintaining balance. Often after it's in muscle memory I will remember to load farther/deeper and that results in more power.

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  #120  
Old 07-14-2018, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by slowplastic View Post
The deeper one is better, but you need to make sure you maintain leverage into the rear hip and through the rear instep to ground. You can have your rear foot pointed slightly more backwards as well, like 130ish from target.

You likely took these pictures earlier, but again your front foot's heel is on the ground which should not be possible from the door frame drill. This is before you crush the can.

When getting used to this in throws you don't need to turn super deep into the rear hip though, as long as you are getting that feeling and maintaining balance. Often after it's in muscle memory I will remember to load farther/deeper and that results in more power.
Thanks, yeah these are just screen grabs from the earlier video I posted. I do feel a lot of tension in the rear leg in the deeper version. I think I read SW say somewhere that if you pick your rear foot off the ground and let it hang, the angle at which it naturally hangs is a good rule of thumb. I may experiment with opening it up some.

As far as "maintaining leverage" goes, I kind of know what it means and it makes sense why one should maintain leverage, but I have no benchmarks or telltales for how to know when leverage is maintained or not.
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