#21  
Old 10-23-2020, 11:29 PM
Steve West Steve West is offline
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Don't just force players to throw straight down the middle of every corridor you find.

Sometimes a long open area works better perpendicular to a fairway. Or to multiple fairways. Or at another angle.
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  #22  
Old 10-24-2020, 07:09 PM
oldmandiscer oldmandiscer is offline
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Use elevation to your advantage. Tee from high and finish with the basket low as much as you can (play downhill). Try and make the basket visible from the tee as much as possible.

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  #23  
Old 11-19-2020, 09:16 PM
Billipo Billipo is offline
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March is best time to design wooded holes. Designer can see through the woods to envision holes. Mark tees and potential pin locations. Watch as foliage fills in. Look for natural fairways ( someone mentioned that point).

Take your time. Remember you need to make the right decision. You will be judged eternally for your design.
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  #24  
Old 11-20-2020, 01:06 PM
1978 1978 is offline
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careful with proximity. It is inevitable that there is a long tee and basket area that you just miss hiding there. Youll see it 5 years from now when a tree dies. Make sure your tees are far enough away from the previous hole for that and to protect players during normal play. If you switch back, remember your rough (should be thinned for play) will be thinned by play and dying trees. Make sure you have plenty of room between holes for expansion and safety.

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Old 11-20-2020, 02:58 PM
1978 1978 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billipo View Post
March is best time to design wooded holes. Designer can see through the woods to envision holes. Mark tees and potential pin locations. Watch as foliage fills in. Look for natural fairways ( someone mentioned that point).

Take your time. Remember you need to make the right decision. You will be judged eternally for your design.
Sure but spring/summer is the worst time to cut! All the trees are full of water so everything is heavier and have leaves and it is hot.
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  #26  
Old 11-22-2020, 05:18 PM
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ChrisWoj ChrisWoj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscgolfStu View Post
Just stopping in to say thanks for the comments, much appreciated! I've done a walk through now and have a better idea of the land. It's actually two gently sloping ravines on either side of a small creek. I'm aware that the creek bed will flood and should be avoided, but I'm also hopeful to be able to play across it and back (might need a bridge). I'm going to wait a couple of weeks to venture out again, though, as the leaves are falling and it will be much easier to see potential lines at that point.
What you said about water was what I was thinking to post - the one time I went in and cut holes out of dense wooded land we made sure to wait out a rainy season to see where the water was going to settle, and then we designed the fairways in large part by sticking to the spots that weren't going to flood, or making sure they wouldn't be a major issue with the players (like throwing across it right off the tee, such that you'd have to hit first-available to wind up in the drink).

Another point - I saw some people mention surveyors tape... We bought a couple of those 3000'-5000' bales of cheap twine and literally outlined our fairways. We strung them over/through the prickly ****, looped them around the trees that would serve as the major fairway boundaries, and then literally just "colored inside the lines" when cutting out all of the brush. We didn't cut any trees until we'd cleared all of the brush that was within the twine, waiting to see what it'd all look like before getting to that step.

(sadly this was in 2009 and 6 months of work on 1600'+ of holes that were used in 2 events were allowed to overgrow when I moved out of state for 3 years and nobody cared to expand the rest of the holes and keep the ones we initially did cut)

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