#21  
Old 10-19-2010, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BrotherDave View Post
I'm with you on this as well. Carrying all max weight everything is stupid I think, and carrying all same weight is borderline dumb.

There is not much more difference b/w a seasoned Champ Eagle and a seasoned Star Eagle then there is b/w any 2 Star or Champ Eagles, thanks to dome, PLH, starlite, gummy vs stiff, etc. All the drivers I BH are Eagles (and an EL) and if I restricted to just one plastic it would be a nightmare. If I threw the DX Eagles only I'd need a new overstable Eagle every 2 weeks, if all Champ it would take forever to beat one in for understable. And if I cycled them all I'd need a damn log to keep track of it all.
I was thinking this as well...I just bought some cheap DX Eagles, a Champ Eagle, to complement my trusty star SEX Eagle. I am wondering If I shouldve gotten tham all same weight though.
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  #22  
Old 10-19-2010, 10:30 PM
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I've noticed a true benefit with less grips as Ive narrowed down molds....right now I am thinking its time to consider either one type of plastic with various weights or various plastics same weights or same weights same plastic various stages of wear.
I will always carry a few utility discs though
There is no such thing as "one type of plastic". They are all blends that ebb and flow constantly. They are blended a little different with each mold to get the weight ranges that they are looking for, change when the DG companies buy from new suppliers, and variations are made on purpose to please a wider range of throwers. For Star there is: (starlite, gummy star, stiff star, Eco Star, champy-star, etc). How about Champion: (clear champ, gummy champ, opaque champ, glow champ, pearly champ, etc). Then for Discraft Z plastic can be stiff or gummy and ESP can be stiff, FLX-ey, and everywhere in between.

So I guess what I'm saying is that you just need to pick discs that feel good and grippy in your hand, and not concern yourself with how the manufacturers label them.
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Old 10-19-2010, 10:36 PM
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I don't think you should get OCD with your weights, but I think you should throw similar weights for similar classes of discs. I've experimented and come to this conclusion. SO I think that you should throw similar weights (+/- 2-3g) for putts, similar weights for putter drivers, similar weights for your mids, for your fairways drivers, and for you fast drivers. I agree that only throwing max weight or having some magic number that all your discs have to be is taking it too far. I do however believe that throwing 2 discs in the same mold that are 5+grams apart is like throwing two different discs.
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Old 10-19-2010, 10:36 PM
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There is no such thing as "one type of plastic". They are all blends that ebb and flow constantly. They are blended a little different with each mold to get the weight ranges that they are looking for, change when the DG companies buy from new suppliers, and variations are made on purpose to please a wider range of throwers. For Star there is: (starlite, gummy star, stiff star, Eco Star, champy-star, etc). How about Champion: (clear champ, gummy champ, opaque champ, glow champ, pearly champ, etc). Then for Discraft Z plastic can be stiff or gummy and ESP can be stiff, FLX-ey, and everywhere in between.

So I guess what I'm saying is that you just need to pick discs that feel good and grippy in your hand, and not concern yourself with how the manufacturers label them.
I agree with this...even to the point of certain champ plastics being waif like and performing like they weigh less.....I prefer the feel of whats identified as star and pro even though they may be slightly different run to run. Typically harder and more durable plastics are slicker.
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Old 10-19-2010, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by discspeed View Post
I don't think you should get OCD with your weights, but I think you should throw similar weights for similar classes of discs. I've experimented and come to this conclusion. SO I think that you should throw similar weights (+/- 2-3g) for putts, similar weights for putter drivers, similar weights for your mids, for your fairways drivers, and for you fast drivers. I agree that only throwing max weight or having some magic number that all your discs have to be is taking it too far. I do however believe that throwing 2 discs in the same mold that are 5+grams apart is like throwing two different discs.
yeah there seems to be a difference in 3gram increments to me so I agree. 175 174 are slightly diff from 172 171 and then 168 167...but within 1-2 grams is basically neglible difference or I am not that refined
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Old 10-19-2010, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by discspeed View Post
I don't think you should get OCD with your weights, but I think you should throw similar weights for similar classes of discs. I've experimented and come to this conclusion. SO I think that you should throw similar weights (+/- 2-3g) for putts, similar weights for putter drivers, similar weights for your mids, for your fairways drivers, and for you fast drivers. I agree that only throwing max weight or having some magic number that all your discs have to be is taking it too far. I do however believe that throwing 2 discs in the same mold that are 5+grams apart is like throwing two different discs.
Okay, this I can get behind this a little bit. But I still think there's room for exceptions. I think regionalism has a lot to with this.

For example, I play tight, wooded NC courses all the time. So I carry a 165 Neb along with my other Neb and Fuse in the 170s. It gives me some extra D that, depending on the hole, can be the difference b/w a par and birdie. But if I played courses where wind played a larger factor, I'd probably never carry it.
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Old 10-19-2010, 10:48 PM
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I strongly think type of courses and regions influences this as well
Florida not much elevation and the benefits of lighter weights uphill and heavier downhill may not be so apparent.
North Carolina probably more premium plastics to handle all that tree beating
Less wooded courses would probably be more ideal for pro and DX lovers
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Old 10-20-2010, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by discspeed View Post
I don't think you should get OCD with your weights, but I think you should throw similar weights for similar classes of discs. I've experimented and come to this conclusion. SO I think that you should throw similar weights (+/- 2-3g) for putts, similar weights for putter drivers, similar weights for your mids, for your fairways drivers, and for you fast drivers. I agree that only throwing max weight or having some magic number that all your discs have to be is taking it too far. I do however believe that throwing 2 discs in the same mold that are 5+grams apart is like throwing two different discs.
I'm in on this, too. Although I wouldn't say that the different "weight classes" fly like different discs. I'd say that the optimum weight class for a disc for a person will fly like a better version of the disc while the others will fly like worse versions of that same disc.

For example, if I have a 175g DX Gazelle and a 170g DX Gazelle with the same shape I find that throughout the wear cycle of each disc the 170g one is longer and easier to control than the 175g one. So at any given stage of wear, the 170g Gazelle will fly like a better version of the 175g Gazelle rather than a completely different disc.
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  #29  
Old 10-20-2010, 09:19 AM
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I'm in on this, too. Although I wouldn't say that the different "weight classes" fly like different discs. I'd say that the optimum weight class for a disc for a person will fly like a better version of the disc while the others will fly like worse versions of that same disc.

For example, if I have a 175g DX Gazelle and a 170g DX Gazelle with the same shape I find that throughout the wear cycle of each disc the 170g one is longer and easier to control than the 175g one. So at any given stage of wear, the 170g Gazelle will fly like a better version of the 175g Gazelle rather than a completely different disc.
I agree that finding the right weight for you personally for a given mold is the key. What I was talking about in my post though was that if you carry the same mold in two different weights disparate by 5grams or more they feel like different discs through the pull and they probably fly like different discs as well. For example, I think a 175 Valk and a 175 Viking are closer to the same in feel and flight than a 175 Valk and a 168 Valk.
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  #30  
Old 10-20-2010, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by optidiscic View Post
I strongly think type of courses and regions influences this as well
Florida not much elevation and the benefits of lighter weights uphill and heavier downhill may not be so apparent.
North Carolina probably more premium plastics to handle all that tree beating
Less wooded courses would probably be more ideal for pro and DX lovers
When I lived in MI and played hilly courses, my philosophy was the same. I used slower discs for throwing uphill as they could fly well with the nose up which helped them lift, or I used less stable discs. I think this is also form dependent. I have long arms and a consistent and somewhat powerful arm stroke. I can slow down and I don't reach back as far for shorter shots as I do when I'm throwing distance, but beyond that I can't power down in terms of my stroke. This is one of the reasons I don't think I've had success throwing lighter weights. Almost every year I test this again and try some lighter drivers, but my results have always been the same. When I throw lighter discs it messes up my timing/form with the heavier ones. Lighter discs prefer spin/snap over arm, and my normal stroke is too much for discs under 170. I have noticed that shorter players who depend more on rotation and a quick arm motion have an easier time adjusting to throwing lighter stuff. I have somewhat similar proportions to Climo, so I think I've tried to imitate he armstroke a bit. He also prefers heavier discs, probably for the same reason.

I also think that the more gyroscopic a disc is, the less it is affected by having a lighter weight.
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