#21  
Old 12-26-2010, 05:16 PM
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Monocacy Monocacy is online now
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Originally Posted by BrotherDave View Post
When new, Champ EL's are deceptively beefy, about as stable as Teebirds but when they are broken in really good they're like faster Leopards.
Thank for the scoop on ELs. Do they go directly from Teebird-like to Leopard-like, or do they spend a decent amount of time in the sweet spot between the two? When an EL starts beating in, does it first lose HSS, LSS, or both?

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If you're looking for something for controlled turnovers out of the box I'd look elsewhere like a Leopard, XL, or light River.
Leopards are my go-to driver in the woods, but I do not trust a Leopard to come back once turned past a certain amount. I am looking for something that can be turned (from anhyzer or hyzer, either is fine), but with enough LSS to fade back reliably. 150 XL would be perfect if available in ESP or Z, but I worry that a Pro-D XL would lose its LSS and turn into a Leopard too quickly.

I hope that Lat64 makes a 150 River some day. Can you imagine the glide?
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  #22  
Old 12-26-2010, 09:50 PM
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BrotherDave BrotherDave is offline
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Originally Posted by Monocacy View Post
Thank for the scoop on ELs. Do they go directly from Teebird-like to Leopard-like, or do they spend a decent amount of time in the sweet spot between the two? When an EL starts beating in, does it first lose HSS, LSS, or both?



Leopards are my go-to driver in the woods, but I do not trust a Leopard to come back once turned past a certain amount. I am looking for something that can be turned (from anhyzer or hyzer, either is fine), but with enough LSS to fade back reliably. 150 XL would be perfect if available in ESP or Z, but I worry that a Pro-D XL would lose its LSS and turn into a Leopard too quickly.

I hope that Lat64 makes a 150 River some day. Can you imagine the glide?
Oh I got you, in that case a Champ EL might be worth checking out. I've got two currently, a 170s EL that's taken forever to beat in to where a hard throw will stay turned over and a mid 160s that I just got that feels like that already. I imagine a 150 EL would be fairly similar to a beat Leopard right out of the box. At 150, the only disc I know of that I would trust to fade back after a lot of use would be an Eagle-X though. But I haven't noticed either of my ELs losing a significant amount of HSS, they just lose LSS and push forward more when fading as they work in.
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  #23  
Old 12-26-2010, 09:54 PM
surgeflx87 surgeflx87 is offline
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I have a couple gummy japan open champ rocs from 2006 that are in the 150s and they still have a suprising amount of stability for being so lite. They also glide for days. I would check them.out if you like rocs and dont mind paying a little more for them.
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Old 12-26-2010, 11:56 PM
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captain jack captain jack is offline
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Q:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monocacy View Post
I am looking for something that can be turned (from anhyzer or hyzer, either is fine), but with enough LSS to fade back reliably.
A:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrotherDave View Post
At 150, the only disc I know of that I would trust to fade back after a lot of use would be an Eagle-X though.


Oh, and why does your age have anything to do with what weight discs you carry ?
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  #25  
Old 12-27-2010, 07:48 AM
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Oh I got you, in that case a Champ EL might be worth checking out.
Thanks, BroD! I have some DX and Champ ELs on the way.
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  #26  
Old 12-27-2010, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by surgeflx87 View Post
I have a couple gummy japan open champ rocs from 2006 that are in the 150s and they still have a suprising amount of stability for being so lite. They also glide for days. I would check them.out if you like rocs and dont mind paying a little more for them.
Good idea – 150s DX Rocs work fine for backhand, but my crappy forehand could benefit from a mid with a little extra stability.
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Old 12-27-2010, 07:53 AM
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Oh, and why does your age have anything to do with what weight discs you carry ?
Good question. Some very good local players around my age throw 150s, but most throw heavier discs. I switched to 150s because they put much less strain on my creaky joints. When I threw 160s, an aching shoulder would often wake me up at night. That got “old” very quickly.

Still, I had a lot of fun abusing various joints through water polo, swimming, hoops, volleyball, etc. If I had a do-over, I would probably choose to injure myself all over again.
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  #28  
Old 12-27-2010, 10:01 AM
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sloppydisc sloppydisc is offline
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I have searched and have not found any 150 Rivers. Makes me very sad. 150's River would be very cool. I have a 162 and a 160 though that are not too bad.
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  #29  
Old 03-04-2011, 07:38 AM
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Spring update: I settled on DX Teebirds as my stable fairway driver, and after experimenting with lighter midranges and putters decided to stick with mid-160s. Backhand is still stuck around 300' and forehand distance is about 10% shorter. I throw pretty much everything in the bag BH and FH, but I try to limit the number of FH drives to save wear and tear on my shoulder.

Eight molds, 11 or 12 discs unless I get a bigger bag (and a Gorilla Boy Silverback is very tempting . . .). Comments and suggestions welcomed as always.

STABLE CONTROL DRIVER:
150 DX Teebird x 2: One fresh, working on one seasoned. Comfortable and reliable.

MODERATELY OVERSTABLE DRIVER:
150 Champ Teebird: Headwinds and strong fades. I rarely throw this unless the wind is howling, so I may test a 150 S CD in this slot. If I can get a little more juice on my throws, I might also try the 150 S PD again.

UNDERSTABLE DRIVER:
150 Champ Leopard: Essential in the woods, and first choice for uphill and downhill drives, hyzer flips, and glidey hyzers.
150 Star Leopard: Testing

DISTANCE DRIVER:
150 Star Valkyrie: BH and FH distance
150 Champ Valkyrie: Testing. Ideally I would like to carry one fresh Valk and one that is easier to turn.

VERY OVERSTABLE DRIVER:
150 Champ Banshee: Overstable stuff, trick shots, headwinds. Also handy when I am having trouble flicking mids and putters.

MIDRANGES:
165-168 DX Roc: Playing around with different weights, but heavier seems to fly farther and handle my forehand OAT more gracefully.
162 DX Roc: Trying to beat up a lighter Roc for turnovers and throwing uphill
165 Z Comet: The other essential woods disc
164 X Comet: A little less LSS than the Z Comet, for zero-fade finishes and turnovers

PUTTERS:
166 S Wizard: Stable approaches and short drives
165 SS Magic: Putting putter and straight approaches
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  #30  
Old 03-04-2011, 09:14 AM
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gkeberhart gkeberhart is offline
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how overstable were those 150 PDs you had, and were they anything like a firebird. I know they are traditionally a meathook in heavier weights
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