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basket stuck in sleeve
- Thread starter blazerico
- Start date
When it comes to torching metals free... It might seem like you have heated long enough but keep going. Unless you have a really good torch portable propane ones are going to take time to heat well. You want HOT otherwise not going to do much. Id torch b4 jacking. Get jack snug then torch and see if it pops with a click of the jack. Should be able to find a smaller hook model to get against pole.
blazerico
Eagle Member
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2008
- Messages
- 555
Nope
mattc
* Ace Member *
Soak it down with wd-40 or PB blaster or whatever you like every day, for a few days.
Then put a big pipe wrench on it, and try to turn it first.
If it won't spin, it won't come out.
If it has had water freeze in the bottom of the pole, it may be swollen and/split, and you may be digging.
Then put a big pipe wrench on it, and try to turn it first.
If it won't spin, it won't come out.
If it has had water freeze in the bottom of the pole, it may be swollen and/split, and you may be digging.
filobedo
Double Eagle Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2008
- Messages
- 1,205
Exactly. I also recommend preparing the problem with some 3 in 1 oil and some gause pads as well as 10 quarts of antifreeze.
Prestone or Quaker State?
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2012
- Messages
- 1,312
Oh, in that case you need this and one of these. Use the cutter to cut the pole exactly two inches (2") above the top of the collar. Then take the stainless pipe to a welder and have the welder cut the stainless pipe to exactly 20 inches and tig weld it onto the pole at the cut that you made (309L filler). Dig up the existing sleeve and concrete and start over with a new sleeve at the location of the cut.
Speaking as someone who runs a fab shop and mobile welding company and has done so since the mid 80's....while this would work, its the most expensive option posted yet. TIG SS to galv mild? Why?
Much cheaper and easier to start over with a fresh 1 1/2" sch 40 galv pipe, drill new holes, install hardware and put it back in a new sleeve in the ground. I'd charge about 70-75 clams total to do the new pipe if I didn't have it in stock, little less if I did...materials and drilling, he can install the hardware.
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2012
- Messages
- 1,312
Putting the stainless on would likely prevent this issue from arising again. Cost, while higher is still manageable, especially if he did the work himself or gets a welder/dg player to do it for free. Then again, the practice basket I am making is all stainless.
If you are going to simply use a piece of galvanized pipe to replace the existing pole, then just remove the hardware from the existing pole, wet the ground thoroughly and use the existing pole to wiggle and free up the whole base before pulling it out, use a truck to pull it up if need be. Then just replace the sleeve and put the basket with new pole back in.
Cost will be double to near triple depending on how much the shop charges for SS GTAW. But the real reason I "Why?'d " that is due to spec'ing GTAW. GTAW dislikes impurities with a passion. Old galv can be next to impossible to remove completely. Running MIG or TIG on it is a losing proposition due to porosity and the resulting weak welds. Stick, either SS or MS would be the preferred route due it its ability to handle impurities better. Running on all new SS, GTAW fine and really preferred IMO, but TIG on old galv to new SS is a nightmare for the welder.
SS basket....betcha that will look sharp. :thmbup: I have been threatening to build one out of aluminum for my shop. Getting tired of lugging all the steel baskets around. I have one that really needs a small diesel engine on it..tis a tad heavy.:\
Re aluminum wouldnt cost be very high compared to steel with less durability? Id love one personally but in your experience even having own shop is it a big difference?
For me? No, not really a higher cost. I can use leftovers and buy very little to get it done. If I was to do it from scratch, including buying everything, yeah, about 1.5x higher for materials, no guess as to labor. As to durability, as long as I don't abuse it, it will handle anything easily. Was thinking along the lines of a Titan type build...all 1/2" rod, etc though 3/8 should be fine. As it would be strictly mine, it would last forever and never rust. :thmbup: I just wanted something a little lighter and that can be left outside without getting all rusted. Also gives me good practice on out of position alu GTAW. :thmbup:
riltim
Eagle Member
We had this problem at Hackett and were able to get the basket out by hooking securing a metal pole to the top of the basket with tie down straps and having a couple guys spin and lift. It was a huge pain, and it took us 45min or so, but we got it out.
Ballingerj44
Par Member
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2013
- Messages
- 158
This is the most intresting thread I've ever read on this site. I'm odd I guess.
beereakfast
Eagle Member
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2009
- Messages
- 646
I use PB blaster frequently, or Rost off. They aren't the best. Cant find the link at the moment but the tested best was 50/50 acetone and ATF as I remember. Must be full of shyte, just an old Master tech.... Guessing your issue is better suited to a pipe wrench(Stillson wrench) and a cheater handle. LUCK!
