First Attempt At Disc Dyeing : Glue Bed

[BillFleming]

I've been wanting to dye some discs for a while, watched lots of YT videos, read lots of posts/comments, but kept putting it off. Then I did it....I meant to take before and after photos along with a video of the actual dyeing....but I only got an 'after' photo.

I used a white Kastaplast Kaxe in K1 plastic for my first try. It's a disc that if it turned out crappy....well, it wouldn't be a big deal as I really don't bag it and it would be a learning experience. Meanwhile, if it did turn out good, there's a chance I might give it a try again in my bag.

This attempt was a glue bed in a cheap "dollar store" frisbee. I used Elmer's Clear School Glue and iPoly dye. I have small glass bottles with droppers for my colors. I used a pipette to measure 45 ml of acetone into each bottle, followed by 3/8 tablespoon of dye (or if you don't have 3/8 tbsp, 1 1/8 teaspoon is the same amount).

I started with black in the middle, used a straw to gather the black close to the middle. Then I used Golden Yellow and Orange on one side, and Red and Kelly Green on the other. I used two skewers to drag through the glue/dye on each side of the black.

I left it in the frisbee for 24 hours and then washed it off. It looked AMAZING! Even my wife (who doesn't disc golf) was impressed.

The last thing I did after it was dry, was to put it on my record player (I have one just for dyeing discs) and, with the speed on slow, I used a small paint brush and black dye to dye the edge.

I've attached the photo of the finished work. My next test/trial is to do:
a spin dye disc (white Star Mako)
testing how a base plastic putter will take dye (orange Birdie),
testing how a clear premium plastic will take dye (F2 Sidewinder)
trying to dye a green premium plastic disc (Star Wraith)

Then....once I have done all my testing, I plan on dyeing the discs that are currently in my bag.

 

[BillFleming]

Well, my spin dye didn't go well at all. It looks really sloppy, but I did learn from it.

1. I wanted the disc to spin off center so that the majority of the stamp was in the center of the dye stripes. This didn't go well as the post was too tall and the disc leaned, which caused problems trying to dye it. I'm going to get a piece of light weigh wood, drill a hole in the center and use that as a base from now on so the post doesn't cause issues.

2. I had the turntable on the slowest speed, but it was difficult to 'hit' the right spot when I started a dye stroke.

3. My timing on pulling the dye across the disc wasn't very good or consistent.

4. I used Q-Tips since YT spin dyers used them to great success, but I couldn't get it consistent enough and will probably try brushes next. (The idea of Q-Tips is that you can throw them away between colors and don't have to keep cleaning them).

Nice thing about the spin dye....I didn't have to leave it overnight. I was able to wash them off immediately.

I might order Worm Dip for future spin dyes...some of my iPoly didn't mix well and there was a bunch of powder with the liquid - especially my Lilac iPoly.

Oh well, can't be perfect every time. I might over dye it in a glue bed to see if I can 'fix' it.

 

[ray1970]

I kind of dig the spin dye.

Dying discs is art. Sometimes the imperfections are what makes them unique. I'd leave it as is and move along to the next project.

 

[zontar]

I'm not into dyed discs at all but you look like you're off to a solid start! keep experimenting!

 

[BillFleming]

I kind of dig the spin dye.

Dying discs is art. Sometimes the imperfections are what makes them unique. I'd leave it as is and move along to the next project.

Thanks....unfortunately, it spun into the water on Wednesday. I hope to get it back. It was a learning experience and I appreciate the feedback.

I did learn from it and I've tried three more test dyes. Working on learning what works and what doesn't.

 

[BillFleming]

Three more dyeing tests using iPoly.

1. Clear plastic....a F2 Innova Sidewinder. This was lilac and turquoise above the black band and red and orange below it. Took dye okay, but needs to be dark dyes.

2. Colored plastic....green Star Innova Wraith. Red, black, turquoise, and lilac. Left some areas of the disc without dye so the green would show throw. This time I mixed the black in with the rest by using a skewer to swirl the dye around. Came out pretty good.

3. Base plastic....DX Innova Birdie. Used a few different colors with this...but only the black 'took' the rest seemed to wash off. I expected the black to be subdued as YT videos and other information says that base plastic soaks in the dye differently and the colors are dull. But I still like the result....if I were to dye a base plastic disc again, I would probably do different designs in just black.

Dye findings. iPoly Lilac has issues. I can't get it to dissolve properly and end up with lots of powder suspended. This causes the color to be faded (see the Green Wraith - there is a lilac "splotch" on opposite edges. I like it, but that is from the dye being 'weak'). I've heard that ProChem is better, so I'm going to order some of that to try. And I'm going to get Spike It Worm Lure to do more spin dyes and 'painting'. On my first spin dye, I also painted the image and, while the results were nice, they weren't the best....some colors didn't take at all (like the lilac) because of powder not fully dissolving.

As for why I'm dyeing my discs....I like the unique designs/colors. I can pretty quickly tell my disc from someone else's. And it is fun seeing the results.

 

[BillFleming]

The latest. A yellow Star Teebird and an orange Star Valkyrie. The dyes were mostly the same, I like how the dyes ended up being subdued on the orange disc.

 

[DatRedDude]

I found idye poly good for hot dips but for dying you really need to make the investment in pro-chem dyes. Also get a heat lamp, can get one at home depot or tractor supply type place. Dye takes better under heat and pops more. You have a few dead spaces as well that the dye did not take to, that could be the way you are setting the disc into the bed itself. Looking good, keep experimenting, dyes are like art, what you think is awesome some will think it terrible and vise versa.

plenty of good youtube videos out there

 

[zenbot]

I've been wanting to dye some discs for a while, watched lots of YT videos, read lots of posts/comments, but kept putting it off. Then I did it....I meant to take before and after photos along with a video of the actual dyeing....but I only got an 'after' photo.

I used a white Kastaplast Kaxe in K1 plastic for my first try. It's a disc that if it turned out crappy....well, it wouldn't be a big deal as I really don't bag it and it would be a learning experience. Meanwhile, if it did turn out good, there's a chance I might give it a try again in my bag.

This attempt was a glue bed in a cheap "dollar store" frisbee. I used Elmer's Clear School Glue and iPoly dye. I have small glass bottles with droppers for my colors. I used a pipette to measure 45 ml of acetone into each bottle, followed by 3/8 tablespoon of dye (or if you don't have 3/8 tbsp, 1 1/8 teaspoon is the same amount).

I started with black in the middle, used a straw to gather the black close to the middle. Then I used Golden Yellow and Orange on one side, and Red and Kelly Green on the other. I used two skewers to drag through the glue/dye on each side of the black.

I left it in the frisbee for 24 hours and then washed it off. It looked AMAZING! Even my wife (who doesn't disc golf) was impressed.

The last thing I did after it was dry, was to put it on my record player (I have one just for dyeing discs) and, with the speed on slow, I used a small paint brush and black dye to dye the edge.

I've attached the photo of the finished work. My next test/trial is to do:
a spin dye disc (white Star Mako)
testing how a base plastic putter will take dye (orange Birdie),
testing how a clear premium plastic will take dye (F2 Sidewinder)
trying to dye a green premium plastic disc (Star Wraith)

Then....once I have done all my testing, I plan on dyeing the discs that are currently in my bag.

I like the texture in the spots where the dye wasn't fully mixed in. Looks great!

 

[BillFleming]

I found idye poly good for hot dips but for dying you really need to make the investment in pro-chem dyes. Also get a heat lamp, can get one at home depot or tractor supply type place. Dye takes better under heat and pops more. You have a few dead spaces as well that the dye did not take to, that could be the way you are setting the disc into the bed itself. Looking good, keep experimenting, dyes are like art, what you think is awesome some will think it terrible and vise versa.

plenty of good youtube videos out there

Those spots without dye were intentional. I didn't fully cover my glue bed. The last two (Teebird and Valkyrie) were done with ProChem. I leave them in the bed for 24 hours. It is interesting that my first dye job turned out really well, and maybe the best....it was iDye Poly.

I'm still learning how much dye to use....I've been dropping 4 drops of color in each spot.

As for YT videos....I have a few saved on my tablet and I re-watch them now and then to get ideas.

 

[BillFleming]

I like the texture in the spots where the dye wasn't fully mixed in. Looks great!

If you mean on the Kaxe....the spots where there are 'spots' is due to the dye not fully dissolving in the bottle and me dropping the color while it had some undissolved dye in it. It did turn out kind of nice and that Kaxe is my favorite so far.

 

[DatRedDude]

Those spots without dye were intentional. I didn't fully cover my glue bed. The last two (Teebird and Valkyrie) were done with ProChem. I leave them in the bed for 24 hours. It is interesting that my first dye job turned out really well, and maybe the best....it was iDye Poly.

I'm still learning how much dye to use....I've been dropping 4 drops of color in each spot.

As for YT videos....I have a few saved on my tablet and I re-watch them now and then to get ideas.

heat helps the dye saturate to the plastic also. I use a heat lamp for mine, 110 degrees for an hour when i set the disc and then off heat for 24.

 

[DatRedDude]

If you mean on the Kaxe....the spots where there are 'spots' is due to the dye not fully dissolving in the bottle and me dropping the color while it had some undissolved dye in it. It did turn out kind of nice and that Kaxe is my favorite so far.

if you are using droppers, make sure you shake well and never pull from the bottom of the bottle, that's where all the undissolved dye comes to rest. I also make sure when i mix my dyes i use almost boiling water to mix before adding the alcohol or acetone depending on what you use.

 

[BillFleming]

if you are using droppers, make sure you shake well and never pull from the bottom of the bottle, that's where all the undissolved dye comes to rest. I also make sure when i mix my dyes i use almost boiling water to mix before adding the alcohol or acetone depending on what you use.

I learned about the bolded part above after I had mixed used my iDye Poly. My ProChem came with mixing directions that say to use hot water and that did work much better.

I shake the bottles before using them, and I don't pull from the bottom, but a couple of iDye Poly mixes have powder suspended in them after shaking....those I try to shake up well and let sit for a short while to get the unmixed dye to fall to the bottom.

 

[DatRedDude]

I learned about the bolded part above after I had mixed used my iDye Poly. My ProChem came with mixing directions that say to use hot water and that did work much better.

I shake the bottles before using them, and I don't pull from the bottom, but a couple of iDye Poly mixes have powder suspended in them after shaking....those I try to shake up well and let sit for a short while to get the unmixed dye to fall to the bottom.

all good, just trying to relay information as me and a few buddies went down the rabbit hole last year with dyeing disc. Lots of mistakes and learning. watched a ton of videos and different methods.

Heat is your friend though that is one main of the main things

I believe i dye poly is actually made for fabric, so its not the best for dying disc, i only use it for hot dips and shaving cream dyes.

 

[BillFleming]

all good, just trying to relay information as me and a few buddies went down the rabbit hole last year with dyeing disc. Lots of mistakes and learning. watched a ton of videos and different methods.

Heat is your friend though that is one main of the main things

I believe i dye poly is actually made for fabric, so its not the best for dying disc, i only use it for hot dips and shaving cream dyes.

Thanks, I always appreciate advice as it can make learning a lot easier. I've seen YT videos where dyers say iDye works on discs as long as it is iDye Poly. The first disc I did was with iDye Poly and, so far, that is really the best dye job of the bunch. Part of it could be due to the disc plastic...but I am liking ProChem better.

 

[DatRedDude]

Thanks, I always appreciate advice as it can make learning a lot easier. I've seen YT videos where dyers say iDye works on discs as long as it is iDye Poly. The first disc I did was with iDye Poly and, so far, that is really the best dye job of the bunch. Part of it could be due to the disc plastic...but I am liking ProChem better.

baseline in most cases might dye but it will fade quickly. Make sure you use a color wheel when mixing colors, this is a great help when laying them side by side, many things make brown and brown isn't good on a disc

 

[BillFleming]

Here's a test one I did. This is a 3D printed disc....the PDGA Approved Mr. Putt by NSHCustomDiscs. I was wondering how well the plastic would take dye since it is 3D plastic. My initial thought was that it would be like base plastics, but it took the dye really well. You can see a spot where there's no dye.... that's part of my 'lesson learned'. The 3D printed disc is flat on top (totally flat) and has a slight texture. I had gotten all the bubbles out of the glue bed, but as I put the disc in the glue bed (starting with one edge) air got trapped under the disc. With a smoother or more rounded disc, the air would most likely have moved and not gotten stuck. But the combination of a flat and textured disc, the air got trapped. Now I know for next time and will have to figure out a better way to add the disc to the bed without trapping air.

Glue Bed
ProChem dyes mixed in acetone
24 hours in bed

 

[BillFleming]

A different style of dyeing. This is an orange Innova Star Mako3.

I used a style I got from YT:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKRY3Gsd5pw&list=PLVpoOKKHVPLcPqktyEn2utQqgx8KcdveT&index=15&t=1082s

It was a glue bed and the dye was ProChem.

Once you know what colors you want, you start by dropping a few drops in the middle. I used black to start. You wait a bit for the acetone to evaporate. Then drop a couple of drops of glue in the middle, let it spread a bit. Then a few drops of the next color. Repeat.

After the colors start spreading out, you should add drops of another color around the outside to keep the inner colors from spreading too far.

Once you have the colors you want, you take a straw and, alternating edges, you blow from the outside in. Doing it five times will create the five arms. Then you do the same thing but blowing from the inside out on the middle of each arm. That lengthens the arms.

Patience is needed on this design. You also need to have the same angle on the straw and work the arms the same way. As you can see in my image, I didn't do that and the arms are of different shapes/lengths. But not bad for a first try.

 

[BillFleming]

I fixed my White Mako 3 which I tried a spin dye on. I did a glue bed with lotion dyes and am happy with the results. I used white glue to cover the image so it wouldn't get dyed. After dyeing and cleaning the disc, I used Sharpies to re-color the image.

Much happier with the result.