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Fly 18 has material "made" for disc golf.
you may also want to check out this thread from DiscGolfers R.Us.
you may also want to check out this thread from DiscGolfers R.Us.
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Making rough concrete tees smooth?
- Thread starter BrotherDave
- Start date
Good links and info all around. I'll have to take the measuring tape out there to see what size the tees are, they're on the smallish side. I'll need like weather resistant screws and big washers to anchor them into the tees, right? This is going to be an interesting project but I might actually find something at the local tractor supply stores, maybe.
Almighty_Ed
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I think Morley also used some kind of adhesive as well, just so there wasn't any slippage. I honestly don't know what they used, but I bet if you get in touch with the Morley pro shop they could tell you.
Here's a pic I snapped today:
Those actually don't look that bad compared to some of the teepads at UNC Chapel Hill (3, 4, and 5 in particular) which, as bad as they are now, were 3-4x worse when they were installed.
Colorado Redbeard
Newbie
Might also consider an extension of the tee pad up front to create the plant and turn area
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Pretty sure Tapcon are specifically mad to be self tapping into concrete (hence the name). I would suggest using a larger diameter shaft as the smaller the diameter is, the greater the tendency will be for the bolt to shear/slice into the mat if there is any slippage.
As for adhesive, I could see simple construction adhesive like liquid nails working, but I'm not sure how necessary it'd be.
As for adhesive, I could see simple construction adhesive like liquid nails working, but I'm not sure how necessary it'd be.
simplepmart
Birdie Member
Here's a pic I snapped today:
I tore my ACL just looking at that picture!
Tapcons are self tapping so to speak, but they are not that heavy duty and you have a hex head sticking up as a tripping hazard maybe. I might be tempted to use these....http://www.powers.com/product_05548.php Just drill hole and hammer in. Smooth rounded head and it will still work with a washer. God help you if you have to remove them, though. That may be a drawback.
knettles
Double Eagle Member
I work at Lowe's (this rarely ever aids me in conversations) and the Tapcons aren't self tapping. They're made to be screwed in after a hole has been drilled. I can't remember which sizes have what heads available, but I do know not all the Tapcons have the hex head. You've also got the larger Tapcons that are basically the same size as a traditional masonry anchor. But I would say there may be more long lasting methods (the masonry anchors previously mentioned). That could get rather expensive tho. Honestly, I feel they mostly only need to keep the pad from sliding around, not so much from ripping straight up.
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Tapping refers to cutting threads, not to pre-drilling a pilot hole. Most fasteners require you pre-drill a hole if it's going into concrete (although I believe there are some which don't)
Most fasteners need an anchor of some sort into which their threads can engage. Self-tapping fasteners do not, as they are designed to cut their own threads into certain types of material... concrete in this case. Regular self-tapping screws won't cut threads in concrete - Tapcons will.
Not saying they are the best alternative... just clarifying a point.
Red Heads may be an inexpensive way to go, that can be removed without too much hassle if needed.
Most fasteners need an anchor of some sort into which their threads can engage. Self-tapping fasteners do not, as they are designed to cut their own threads into certain types of material... concrete in this case. Regular self-tapping screws won't cut threads in concrete - Tapcons will.
Not saying they are the best alternative... just clarifying a point.
Red Heads may be an inexpensive way to go, that can be removed without too much hassle if needed.
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ITW Buildex Tapcons...
http://www.tapcon.com/concreteAnchor.asp
http://www.tapcon.com/TapconConcreteanchorsAvailableSizes.html
2 sizes, 3/16 and 1/4" shaft.
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/c0/c063f0ba-e028-42fd-9652-a519dfcf1198.pdf
And FWIW, the Tap in Tapcon is for the tapping action or thread cutting action in concrete...thus Tap con.
If you use fender washers, you must use hex heads. The Phillips version won't hold a washer very well at all.
http://www.tapcon.com/concreteAnchor.asp
http://www.tapcon.com/TapconConcreteanchorsAvailableSizes.html
2 sizes, 3/16 and 1/4" shaft.
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/c0/c063f0ba-e028-42fd-9652-a519dfcf1198.pdf
And FWIW, the Tap in Tapcon is for the tapping action or thread cutting action in concrete...thus Tap con.
If you use fender washers, you must use hex heads. The Phillips version won't hold a washer very well at all.
Almighty_Ed
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Yes Tapcons have to be pre-drilled. If you buy the big box, which you will need, it comes with 1 drill bit. You will also need a few extra drill bits because they dull fast. "Masonry" drill bits and a hammer drill is what's needed. I wouldn't worry about the hex head being a trip hazard. Once tightened down there wont be much sticking up and that's going to be by the edge anyway. The phillips head will work with washers too but will be tough to screw all the way in before the head strips out. They are plenty strong enough for this use too. I've used a bazillion tapcons doing many different tasks involving anchoring to concrete.
knettles
Double Eagle Member
Well I feel a little stupid now. My bad man, I guess I assumed that because the regular "self tapping screws" we have have a sort of drill tip on the end. So, I had a good round of disc golf today and learned something new. I'd call that a productive day.
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After seeing the picture I was going to suggest covering it with a rubber tee mat. But, mashnut already suggested that, good thing I read into the thread. Let us know how it works and how you fixed it and cost, after picture please!?
turbine712
Birdie Member
I think this is a great idea. Just add a 1-1 1/2 ft extention to the front. The back part of the pad would have good traction and the front would provide the turnability others like.
Or place a towel down like Steve Rico does one certain holes.
Here's a pic I snapped today:
I don't want to insult anyone, but man! That's no bueno!
As others have said, remove and replace or cover with rubber (which is probably the best way). If you cover it with rubber, you'd have to do something to keep moisture from getting and staying underneath the rubber. The rubber mats won't last long if water is allowed to "rot" them from the underside.
go get some of that nice NC beach sand in the meantime and put under before mats or something?
