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Have you ever had a disc that doesn't throw the way the numbers read?

Ever had a disc that didn't throw the way the numbers read?


  • Total voters
    66
All my discraft discs match their stamped rating;)
Ofcourse innovas high speed drivers vary due to having so much rim and me not being able to harness enough armspeed:(
I can't figure out vibrams numbers:(
 
All my discraft discs match their stamped rating;)
Ofcourse innovas high speed drivers vary due to having so much rim and me not being able to harness enough armspeed:(
I can't figure out vibrams numbers:(

They're quite simple. The big number above the 'Speed' text is the optimum speed (in mph) the disc is meant to be thrown, and other ratings are based on (in the Ridge's case 52mph). The number below is the distance multiplier ("glide" if you will, in the Ridge 6). That times the optimum speed should give you the distance in feet (So for the Ridge it's 6 * 52 = 312 feet).

The fade and turn are based on the optimum speed rating. Turn rating tells you how much the disc should turn (in degrees) when thrown flat and 20% above the optimum speed of the disc (in the Ridge's case it's 5 degrees). Fade is the same thing, but for 20% under the optimum speed (in the Ridge's case 16).

It's all available at Vibram's website...
 
When I lose a disc... then replace it with the same one... then throw that one... then go "WTF" 'cuz it goes way different then the one I lost...

So, yes, this has happened to me...
 
They're quite simple. The big number above the 'Speed' text is the optimum speed (in mph) the disc is meant to be thrown, and other ratings are based on (in the Ridge's case 52mph). The number below is the distance multiplier ("glide" if you will, in the Ridge 6). That times the optimum speed should give you the distance in feet (So for the Ridge it's 6 * 52 = 312 feet).

The fade and turn are based on the optimum speed rating. Turn rating tells you how much the disc should turn (in degrees) when thrown flat and 20% above the optimum speed of the disc (in the Ridge's case it's 5 degrees). Fade is the same thing, but for 20% under the optimum speed (in the Ridge's case 16).

It's all available at Vibram's website...

I understand how it works now that you explain it, but I think it's anything but simple...If someone buys one at the store they aren't going to have a clue what those numbers mean. And who carries a radar gun to the course and knows how fast they throw, and knows how to dial up 52mph to go 312'? Discraft's system is simple...not good, but definitely simple...Too simple to be much use. Vibram's takes it to the opposite extreme rendering it just about as useless.
 
I understand how it works now that you explain it, but I think it's anything but simple...If someone buys one at the store they aren't going to have a clue what those numbers mean. And who carries a radar gun to the course and knows how fast they throw, and knows how to dial up 52mph to go 312'? Discraft's system is simple...not good, but definitely simple...Too simple to be much use. Vibram's takes it to the opposite extreme rendering it just about as useless.
Damn it, I knew I forgot something: The sarcasm tags. :D

Still, I like that system. It gives you a sense that they've done some testing and measurements. Doesn't have to be true, but I welcome the feeling.
 
I would say the flight numbers are an okay way to judge how a disc will fly, although some discs numbers are way off. Lots of times you just need to actually throw a friends similar disc and see for yourself how it flys.
 
I go the route of buying any disc I'm interested in then throwing it in the practice field. I should start trading off my large accumulation of plastic but I get a bit possessive of them and have a hard time.
 
flight numbers are an average of all the plastics. your champ isn't going to fly like a DX

True dat man!! The R-Pro Boss is not super stable like the champ/star/pro versions even though it has the same flight rating. Dont even get me started talking about the groove.
 
Flight numbers work like this.

They're only worth considering if you can throw with enough force to make the disc fly the way its intended.

And, if you can throw with enough force to make the disc fly the way its intended, you've already learned that flight numbers suck.

On a more useful note, if you're "turning over" a teerex, you have OAT. Hate to say it, but you need to clean up your form.

I probably wouldn't argue with the need for better form, I'm still relatively new to the game (Early June I really started playing more). I'm not a terribly far driver but I'm told for my experience I throw pretty hard...RHBH w/ my destroyer I'll hit around 380-400', RHFH maybe a little over 360. I know that's nothing to crap your pants over but it seems like if I was throwing too slow, annie wouldn't be a problem, I'd suppose. What's OAT?



Do you have any discs that are fading back after you release anhyzer?

Ya I've got a semi-fresh destroyer (laked my last one :p) that I can release fairly annie for a nice helix (flex is the preferred term here?)...even my more broken in one (it hit some stuff hard, so it broke in a little faster it seemed, heh) I could release with a little bit of annie and it'd still come back. That's why I thought...by comparison (destro= -1/3 rex= 0/4), it'd be equally difficult to turn over rex.

Maybe sometime I'll post some video of my form and hear what the forums have to say.
 
I have never thrown a disc that flew like the numbers said. There have been some that were similar to the numbers, but none were spot on.

Yup. Any set of numbers that represents an aggregate across all types of plastic is completely useless, except playing the daily 4.

And I voted "moron". Thanks for the option!
 
The numbers on a disc should only be used as a guide, not as gospel as to how any specific disc will fly. Be sure not to over think the sport. The best way to learn a disc is to throw it multiple times, no matter what the numbers say.

If I paid that much attention to numbers I would have never put a Katana in my bag.

I agree. After I get a disc, I spend an afternoon in an open field throwing the disc over and over till I can memorize how far it will go for me and how it will fly for me.

If you want a hard turning disc, try a Discraft Force. That is what I use.
 
You mean all you guys believe those silly numbers actually mean something. I trust you people and DGR more than all the made up numbers.
 
I find LAT64 to be rated suspiciously.....great discs but I think they r typically rated a little more on the stable side than they really are
 
had a pro starfire that was more overstable than my 11x firebird.....

thew side by side with my star starfire... the pro would fade halfway through the flight, sink less that 200'... star i could put out 325 feet...
 
Have a Champion DYED Starfire and it is the most overstable disc I have(Not counting my Drone).Have some Star Firebirds and they fly way further than I thought they would(They don´t have a hard turn at the end just a slow fade).

Have noticed that every dyed disc I have is more overstable and wind resistant than the orniginal star or campion version of the same mold.
 
The numbers give you a general sense of the flight but aren't perfect. My big problem is when I get used to a discs flight over a couple of different discs and buy a new version of that disc expecting it to be at least close to that flight, only to find something completely different.

Case in point, I bought a gummy 175 champ valk that flew perfectly for me. Even new, it would effortlessly flip up from hyzer and fly flat. Unfortunately, I'm an idiot and left it at a course. So I went to replace it with a new disc. Bought a new champ 175 valk that was also gummy but it flies nothing alike. It is ridiculously overstable for some reason. So much so that its hard as hell to get it to flip to flat and the only time I've seen it turn over (not turn and burn mind you, just turn over past flat) was when thrown into a 30 mph headwind.

That's more frustrating than anything else.
 

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