Just curious what the general consensus is. If you're throwing putters 250, mid ranges 300, how far would you think that same person should be throwing drivers? And as a follow up question, if they're not throwing as far as you would expect, any guesses why? Thx.
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Putter @ 250, mids @ 300, drivers @ ?
- Thread starter DiscFifty
- Start date
riltim
Eagle Member
Fairways 340-350. Nose up is your problem.
Hoosierhodge
Newbie
This sums it up well. Nose up frequently seems to be the problem if mids and drivers are going the same distance even with adequate power.
slowplastic
* Ace Member *
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2014
- Messages
- 6,254
The fairways should be at least 30' past the mids on good rips, or else at least 10' past the mids on very low height shots. It's not unreasonable to get some fairway driver shots 350' if mids are at 300'.
Can you see the flight plate of the disc at all during its flight? How high do your drivers go? Do they climb and fade at the peak, fading to the left and not forward at all? Or do they decrease in height and then start to fade off, in a more ) compared to 7 shape? (those symbols aren't perfect representations...)
Another issue can be mental...you have a driver in your hand, so you feel like you have to crush it. Try holding it light like the midrange/putter and throw it easily, the same way. Don't put anything extra on it. Just keep the nose down.
Can you see the flight plate of the disc at all during its flight? How high do your drivers go? Do they climb and fade at the peak, fading to the left and not forward at all? Or do they decrease in height and then start to fade off, in a more ) compared to 7 shape? (those symbols aren't perfect representations...)
Another issue can be mental...you have a driver in your hand, so you feel like you have to crush it. Try holding it light like the midrange/putter and throw it easily, the same way. Don't put anything extra on it. Just keep the nose down.
Thanks for the comments. I do think it could be grip related as well. The Buzzz's just feel very rippy in my hands while drivers tend to feel a little less. I also throw a bit too much hyzer which I've been working on for quite a while, so I throw more understable plastic to compensate. Mid range flight plate never exposed, driver flight path sometimes slightly exposed resulting in a slight climb and fade as you described. When all goes well...low...straight for a while...fade to right and come back left at the end. This is path of my Daedalus driver when it's working well. I have to admit I don't really focus on my fairway drivers that often (witness, JLS), because they just don't get alot of use, but I think I should probably throw those more often compared to my drivers. The only disc I "try" to do a high flex shot with is the UnLace...but when it is working, it has the potential to fly 400+... I've come very close with this disc, I throw it flat (hopefully nose down'ish) high to the left..it makes a sweeping turn to the right and then comes back left at the end. But this is a rare opportunity due to the hole needs to be wide open. I will definitely work on keeping things more nose down as I just did a video of myself and my upper body is leaning back a bit on release.....and that's not a good thing. lol..
slowplastic
* Ace Member *
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2014
- Messages
- 6,254
I would say focus on fairway drivers. More forgiving to nose down and release speed, so it'll be a good transition and confidence booster. If you're not throwing the fairways 330-350 then high speeds will be way more uncontrollable, and their early fade could rob you of distance. I haven't thrown the Daedalus but I have a Vulcan that is also very understable, but unless it's thrown with 350' of power it's a meathook still. Once you break past that speed requirement its true HSS shows.
If you throw some speed 7ish stuff then you should get greater distance compared to the mids at a similar effort. Once you get comfortable and you feel like you aren't straining yourself to get them to fly properly, then see how the speed 10+ stuff does.
If you throw some speed 7ish stuff then you should get greater distance compared to the mids at a similar effort. Once you get comfortable and you feel like you aren't straining yourself to get them to fly properly, then see how the speed 10+ stuff does.
Squirrilah Fish
Birdie Member
This is EXACTLY where I was at not to long ago. I created my own acronym to help me: DISC GARF.
GARF= Grip, Arm, Release, Follow Through.
Grip= making sure I have good traction, with my fingers up in the rim, and most importantly my thumb FLAT pressing down firmly. I found this helps me keep the nose down, and prevents unwanted hyzers.
ARM: my arm is coming straight through my body, not swinging out, and that it accelerates in a line parallel to the ground,
Release: not locking my wrist, keeping it lose, but not flexed inward. Getting a good flick, or snap at the end of the throw, which naturally happens with a relaxed wrist, and firm grip, making sure I'm releasing the disc, and especially the nose flat.
Follow through: swinging through the throw, turning my whole body in one timely motion. This is a very important part. You want to make sure your not turning your hips too early, (hyzer) or too late (flies too high) combining all these elements and working the Beto drill got me to 400'
GARF= Grip, Arm, Release, Follow Through.
Grip= making sure I have good traction, with my fingers up in the rim, and most importantly my thumb FLAT pressing down firmly. I found this helps me keep the nose down, and prevents unwanted hyzers.
ARM: my arm is coming straight through my body, not swinging out, and that it accelerates in a line parallel to the ground,
Release: not locking my wrist, keeping it lose, but not flexed inward. Getting a good flick, or snap at the end of the throw, which naturally happens with a relaxed wrist, and firm grip, making sure I'm releasing the disc, and especially the nose flat.
Follow through: swinging through the throw, turning my whole body in one timely motion. This is a very important part. You want to make sure your not turning your hips too early, (hyzer) or too late (flies too high) combining all these elements and working the Beto drill got me to 400'
Squirrilah Fish
Birdie Member
Also a note on discs. I throw a Daedalus, I throw, I Nuke SS. An Archon. But the disc I broke 400 with is the TL3, and my most consistent long range drivers are a sidewinder, and Saint. So don't think you need 13.12.11. Or even 10 speed discs to break 400'.
OJnBasquits
Par Member
200, 250, 300
http://www.dgcoursereview.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95459
similar thread i think u might find interesting
similar thread i think u might find interesting
Thx! :clap:
