Unless thrown at the proper speed, distance discs underperform...

[VictorB]

Joule is a unit of energy. 1 J = 1 Newton (unit of force) X 1 meter (distance)

1 N = 1 kg X 1 m / s ^2 or force equals mass times acceleration.

and (mass*acceleration)/distance traveled = energy

so if you break it down into combining the equations, force is a derived constant from energy, so it wasn't exactly incorrect to say that a joule is a unit of force...but you're right, it wasn't the most correct way to say it either! cut me some slack, it's been 5.5years since I graduated, and my focus was on calculus physics anyway

 

[garublador]

This is why follow through is important. If your hand does not keep accellerating even while it's moving away from the target, the maximum rip, snap, spin will not be imparted to the disc. Wouldn't this be more important to tell people than just boycott all distance drivers? :|

Except that the feel of that acceleration is much easier to feel with slower discs.

 

[ChainMan]

Except that the feel of that acceleration is much easier to feel with slower discs.

I agree but why do you think that's the case? Rim width?

 

[garublador]

I agree but why do you think that's the case? Rim width?

That's my guess. It's a lot easier to get a solid grip on narrow rimmed discs even if your grip feels stronger on wider rimmed discs.

I do know that I feel snap a lot more often on Rocs (as in throwing them 330'-340') than I do with Gazelles and Teebirds. I almost never get it on discs faster than that.

 

[toothyfish]

That's my guess. It's a lot easier to get a solid grip on narrow rimmed discs even if your grip feels stronger on wider rimmed discs.

I do know that I feel snap a lot more often on Rocs (as in throwing them 330'-340') than I do with Gazelles and Teebirds. I almost never get it on discs faster than that.

While on that subject...when you throw them at the 300+ distance, is that with a full out drive? Meaning the full step, reach back, and acceleration? I've started doing that and so far (for the most part) am able to get them flying to about 300 and fly like a Roc should (nice and straight, no wobble, or turnover). Not sure I would do it on the course, but as a practice tool.

 

[garublador]

While on that subject...when you throw them at the 300+ distance, is that with a full out drive? Meaning the full step, reach back, and acceleration? I've started doing that and so far (for the most part) am able to get them flying to about 300 and fly like a Roc should (nice and straight, no wobble, or turnover). Not sure I would do it on the course, but as a practice tool.

Yep, full out drive. 300' is what I normally get out of them on the course.

Why wouldn't you do that on the course? That's exact shot is the best reason to throw a Roc. Most of my Roc shots are full throws.

 

[toothyfish]

Yep, full out drive. 300' is what I normally get out of them on the course.

Why wouldn't you do that on the course? That's exact shot is the best reason to throw a Roc. Most of my Roc shots are full throws.

It's situational. While I'm beginning to get the distance, I don't have full control over it yet. 280 is my max controlled limit with a Roc. Previously, I would have a 50/50 shot at hitting the line vs pulling the whole thing over. 300 ft is a Gazelle for me up to about 320ish depending on shot. But I'm seeing this whole thing shift as I improve. I'm trying now to be very concious of the reach back, smooth acceleration with the late snap and it's paying off.

Heck, that's not bad for January.

 

[TxDiscGolfBoy]

I agree completely and I know this from experience. I know when I haven't thrown a disc at the proper speed or with the proper spin as soon as I've let it go, especially with a max weight beast and a max weight sidewinder that I use. In my opinion, the best disc to practice with to learn how a disc is supoosed to fly ,with regards to its rating, is the Wraith. This disc will let you know if you've thrown it with the proper speed and spin. Wether you're trying to get that "-1" turn rating it has to show up in it's high speed flight, or getting the disc to stand up...I feel that this disc is the most consistant flyer with regards to what it's rated.

 

[Scoot_er]

I agree completely and I know this from experience. I know when I haven't thrown a disc at the proper speed or with the proper spin as soon as I've let it go, especially with a max weight beast and a max weight sidewinder that I use. In my opinion, the best disc to practice with to learn how a disc is supoosed to fly ,with regards to its rating, is the Wraith. This disc will let you know if you've thrown it with the proper speed and spin. Wether you're trying to get that "-1" turn rating it has to show up in it's high speed flight, or getting the disc to stand up...I feel that this disc is the most consistant flyer with regards to what it's rated.

Or you can go with a DX Leopard with a MS for a few shots and become a pro level player! I have seen this approach which was amazing in how much this guy learned about form in a very short period and if he hadn't gone back to school for like his 10th degree while working full time would be a pretty decent regional threat.

I would not suggest a Wraith for "training" unless the guy is already ADV or at least a good intermediate player. You have to remember it came out like 4 years ago and even then most discs were too fast/finicky for a learning tool.

Like pretty much any other thing I suggest learning to snap the crap out of a mid or putter for a few weeks before going to test your driver results. If you can learn to gain 15-20ft on your mids through a few rounds of playing and using them for different lines this will translate to improved results in many areas. You will develop better spin, reduced bst, and perfect the right angle of release for a more powerful and efficient throw.

I would suggest a ESP Cyclone, Tracker, or for a mid Z Wasp to help develop both lines and the Wasp will allow you to throw punch hyzer lines where you really focus on driving the disc.

 

[midmittendgfiend]

fingers

im a 5'9'' 275 pound dude and my fingers are fat as hell. when i first started a while ago i didnt know too much about grip, so i would always use the so called control grip which would end up making every disc i own do the same exact thing which was hardcore hyzer. then i started using a power grip and got my fat index finger out of the way and i get more rotation and snap. even out here in these michigan trees i can usually get it in the fairway everytime. it just goes alot starighter when i use that grip. most times its more of an overhand powergrip rhbh thing. it works good for me and it works at any speed too!