[Innova] DX versus Champion

[drock2k1]

I like DX plastic but I will turn most of the light ones over once they are beat in. Champ plastic is my favorite for the most part. I will say, I can pick up 5 DX discs for about 26 bucks online and that makes for an easy way to try out some discs I am interested in.

 

[jwk0522]

A dx disc is good as long as youre not hitting any trees, Dx discs warp way too easily a champion disc may cost more but it is worth it as it is way more durable and reliable

 

[zenbot]

There are a few assumptions you have to accept to understand why low end plastic is used.

1. All discs beat in. If someone made a truly indestructable plastic it would be a major scientific breakthrough.

2. If you look at the way a disc beats in, it will beat sorta quickly at first and then slow way down so that it doesn't change flight much for a long time. After that it gets gradually more understable at a fairly slow rate.

3. If you observe how discs in high end plastic beat compared to how discs in low end plastic beat you'll find that the high end discs tend to loose HSS faster than LSS. The low end discs will loose LSS faster than HSS.

4. In general, and this applies even more to discs that come recommended in low end plastics, you'll find that the high end discs start off more overstable, meaning you have to pick a more understable mold to get a good flight when new.

5. Not all low end discs beat in fast. Some do, the ones I'm talking about (putters, stable mids, stable fairway/control drivers) don't. The wear is gradual.

What all that means is that if you pick a disc in a high end plastic you'll have to pick on that's either too overstable to be controlled well and then wait for it to get beat up (which most people agree it takes a decent amount time to beat high end discs), or one that flies well when new and have it get squirrley when it does beat in (which will generally happen faster with discs that don't start off overstable). That makes replacing a beat version of the first type I mentioned extremely difficult and replacing a beat version of the latter necessary no matter whether you lose it or not.

It also means that the beat versions won't fly nearly as well as beat versions of low end discs. Losing HSS means that discs tend to get squirrley easier and it makes anhyzers and turnovers more diffcult because the disc still wants to fade out. Losing LSS means straighter flights with the disc still being controlable because the HSS is predictable.

Also, how many threads are there about the flight differences between colors and runs of high end discs? How many are there about the flight differences between colors or runs of DX Teebirds or DX Rocs? There just seems to be less variation in runs of the lower end discs. That means that when buying a new one you'll have a lot better chance of the disc flying how you expect without having to find a certain run.

Cycling discs isn't as hard to manage as you'd think. As long as you keep a backup or two of the discs in the best stages of wear there won't be a shot you can't perform. Plus, getting discs to that stage means you'll know the disc really well by the time it gets to that point.

Very helpful info. Thanks.

 

[Omega SuperSloth]

wow ...dx is crap? tell climo his roc and aviars are crap..maybe you hit too many things with them, then they ARE crap?

how many dx drivers does he throw and yes ill tell him straight to his face (although with those ears i could probaly just open my window and he could hear me typing ) dx sucks major a88.

 

[optidiscic]

The reason putters and mids don't wear as fast in DX IMO is that very rarely are you throwing these discs full force with run up and X-step straight into a tree 20 feet away. Generally these putters and mids are for finesse shots and don't take a high speed beating. Just my observation. Also anyone who plays is gonna nail the tree at high speed....I think it's pretentious that some of the posters on here act like they never hit a tree at close range, within 100 feet. Maybe your not playing tough courses?

 

[billnchristy]

I think it's pretentious that some of the posters on here act like they never hit a tree at close range, within 100 feet. Maybe your not playing tough courses?
Reply With Quote

Well, here is a shot of hole 8 from not so shady acres before all those obstacles were removed...it was found to be too difficult.

 

[Omega SuperSloth]

Well, here is a shot of hole 8 from not so shady acres before all those obstacles were removed...it was found to be too difficult.

i didnt know mt. st. helens had a course looks nice.

 

[optidiscic]

as redneck would say...some trimming and widening of the fairways would improve this course tremendously! haha Love it!

 

[disc golfer]

I like both DX and Champion discs alike. What I like about DX is that they fly true to the flight characteristics chart that Innova puts out. Where the Champion plastic flies way different than the chart states.

What I like about the Champion plastic is the durability. What I don't like about the DX is that the flight characteristics change after a few months of use. So, it's a love hate relationship with both DX and Champion versions!

 

[disc golfer]

I think you're wrong. MY champ valk is much more stable than MY dx valk and it is even a few grams lighter. Maybe you have a weird one or a much lighter one or something...

I agree, I think I have a bum Champion Valkyrie. Trust me, I throw my DX Valk flat and get a huge 350 to 400 foot S-Curve. I throw my Champ Valk flat and it anhyzers over like a Leopard. Maybe I just need to buy a new one!

 

[disc golfer]

I think you're wrong. MY champ valk is much more stable than MY dx valk and it is even a few grams lighter. Maybe you have a weird one or a much lighter one or something...

I agree, I think I have a bum Champion Valkyrie. Trust me, I throw my DX Valk flat and get a huge 350 to 400 foot S-Curve. I throw my Champ Valk flat and it anhyzers over like a Leopard. Maybe I just need to buy a new one!

 

[fretgod321]

skip champion and buy discs in star plastic. they're grippier, and feel so much better

 

[disc golfer]

In my experience, Champion plastic is much more durable than Star. So, I prefer Champion over Star.

 

[Jimb]

how many dx drivers does he throw and yes ill tell him straight to his face (although with those ears i could probaly just open my window and he could hear me typing ) dx sucks major a88.

That kills me!!!! As a matter of fact, I think that I just heard you typing in the distance.

And actually addressing the topic... not just boosting my stats...

I generally prefer Champion in my drivers and DX in my mid-ranges and putters. And I've never had a problem with Champion plastic feeling slippery. As long as I dry mine well before throws the grip is just fine for me.

 

[fretgod321]

In my experience, Champion plastic is much more durable than Star. So, I prefer Champion over Star.

Better grip = better control, so i prefer star over champion

 

[BrotherDave]

There are a few assumptions you have to accept to understand why low end plastic is used.

1. All discs beat in. If someone made a truly indestructable plastic it would be a major scientific breakthrough.

2. If you look at the way a disc beats in, it will beat sorta quickly at first and then slow way down so that it doesn't change flight much for a long time. After that it gets gradually more understable at a fairly slow rate.

3. If you observe how discs in high end plastic beat compared to how discs in low end plastic beat you'll find that the high end discs tend to loose HSS faster than LSS. The low end discs will loose LSS faster than HSS.

4. In general, and this applies even more to discs that come recommended in low end plastics, you'll find that the high end discs start off more overstable, meaning you have to pick a more understable mold to get a good flight when new.

5. Not all low end discs beat in fast. Some do, the ones I'm talking about (putters, stable mids, stable fairway/control drivers) don't. The wear is gradual.

What all that means is that if you pick a disc in a high end plastic you'll have to pick on that's either too overstable to be controlled well and then wait for it to get beat up (which most people agree it takes a decent amount time to beat high end discs), or one that flies well when new and have it get squirrley when it does beat in (which will generally happen faster with discs that don't start off overstable). That makes replacing a beat version of the first type I mentioned extremely difficult and replacing a beat version of the latter necessary no matter whether you lose it or not.

It also means that the beat versions won't fly nearly as well as beat versions of low end discs. Losing HSS means that discs tend to get squirrley easier and it makes anhyzers and turnovers more diffcult because the disc still wants to fade out. Losing LSS means straighter flights with the disc still being controlable because the HSS is predictable.

Also, how many threads are there about the flight differences between colors and runs of high end discs? How many are there about the flight differences between colors or runs of DX Teebirds or DX Rocs? There just seems to be less variation in runs of the lower end discs. That means that when buying a new one you'll have a lot better chance of the disc flying how you expect without having to find a certain run.

Cycling discs isn't as hard to manage as you'd think. As long as you keep a backup or two of the discs in the best stages of wear there won't be a shot you can't perform. Plus, getting discs to that stage means you'll know the disc really well by the time it gets to that point.

Ah, but you forgot one thing oh wise Garublador. I bet I can trade my seasoned champ and star discs a lot easier than your beat in DX.

I hear what you are saying but I'd just rather buy higher end plastic and be done with it. I don't know really notice them turning detrimentally squirrely as bad as DX stuff. There is something just wrong about not owning a DX Roc or 2 though.

 

[Omega SuperSloth]

That kills me!!!! As a matter of fact, I think that I just heard you typing in the distance.

And actually addressing the topic... not just boosting my stats...

I generally prefer Champion in my drivers and DX in my mid-ranges and putters. And I've never had a problem with Champion plastic feeling slippery. As long as I dry mine well before throws the grip is just fine for me.

if your not sure if the lips dry then dry it off when it comes to champ but when its dry its just as grippy as anything else, im glad you enjoyed that i was going just say open the window and yell but im not sure that would convey how big his ears really are (j.k.b.t.w champ im sure at this point youve grown a since of humor about it ) .

 

[scarpfish]

Some folks here must play courses with absolutely no water hazards on them. I mean, call me nuts, but I'd rather put a $7-8 disc on a potential suicide flight than a $13-15 one.

And to be truthful, I've never thrown a disc made by any company, in any grade of plastic, that flew consistently enough where if I lost it, I could just go out, buy another one, same mold, color and weight off the shelf and have the new disc pick up where the old one left off. There's always inconsistency in the manufacturing process that's going to mean some discs are bound to be money, and some are bound to be lemons.

 

[Ewb46]

Dis likes or likes aside it is nice to have the choices in plastics. I think it would suck to have them all the same. I have a variety of plastic in my bag some are star, champ, pro, r pro, glow, and DX. I have some copies of discs in different plastics I am finding I like the feel of one over the other. I like the option of choices. Doesn't matter if price or feel is your determing factor it is nice to have the ability to chose.

 

[BrotherDave]

Some folks here must play courses with absolutely no water hazards on them. I mean, call me nuts, but I'd rather put a $7-8 disc on a potential suicide flight than a $13-15 one.

Oh grow a pair. Just kidding.