Well, I'll find out soon enough I guess. It's just that I was planning on using the same coat of glue for a series of dyes (for different shades) that will involve a fair amount of cutting on the disc between dips. That cutting is going to be a pain if I have to worry about not touching the glue the whole time.
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Noobie Dye Question Thread
- Thread starter agent_peebody
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Well, I'll find out soon enough I guess. It's just that I was planning on using the same coat of glue for a series of dyes (for different shades) that will involve a fair amount of cutting on the disc between dips. That cutting is going to be a pain if I have to worry about not touching the glue the whole time.
I imagine you're using Elmer's glue?
I like to set the glue by putting the disc in front of a fan --- when the glue turns from opaque to clear, it's dry and ready to go.
It will still get a little mushy if you're putting it in heated dye, no getting around that, but it doesn't move while in the dye.
I like to set the glue by putting the disc in front of a fan --- when the glue turns from opaque to clear, it's dry and ready to go.
It will still get a little mushy if you're putting it in heated dye, no getting around that, but it doesn't move while in the dye.
Yeah its Elmer's.
It was definitely completely dry. I guess I just expected expected it to stay hard throughout. I suppose I can let it dry again after each dip, before doing the cutting for the next dip.
We'll see how it goes tonight.
It was definitely completely dry. I guess I just expected expected it to stay hard throughout. I suppose I can let it dry again after each dip, before doing the cutting for the next dip.
We'll see how it goes tonight.
Eky8
Eagle Member
Yeah. Heated dip dye. Don't think I've ever gone longer than 30 min. I do always rinse it off and reapply between colors.
DougCrawford
Double Eagle Member
My daughter loves painting and is starting to get into disc golf more- I have only stencil dyed a couple times, but would like to let her paint one of her discs.
I tried looking into older threads about this but only found stuff that was several years old and had instructions for rit dye. For anyone who has had success with paining, how do you go about it?
I tried looking into older threads about this but only found stuff that was several years old and had instructions for rit dye. For anyone who has had success with paining, how do you go about it?
First, the go-to default dye is now idye poly. And the poly part is very important.
When I paint I use a mix of dye and laundry detergent (regular Gain typically).
Others use a mix of dye and acetone, but that may not be suitable for a kid....
I have also heard of painting with a dye + hand lotion mix. That may be closer to actual paint in terms of consistency.
DougCrawford
Double Eagle Member
Do you rinse it off? Or just paint it on and leave it? If you rinse it,how long do you let it sit?
I've got some idye poly- ill probably have to invest in a couple more colors- is there a specific ratio of dye to solvent you use?
Thanks!
I've got some idye poly- ill probably have to invest in a couple more colors- is there a specific ratio of dye to solvent you use?
Thanks!
Yes, you'll have to rinse it. How long you let it sit depends on how deep you want the color. Really, that's the main thing that separates real painting from painting to dye; time matters.
If you are going for max color and leave it at room temp, I'd let it sit around 24hrs. Try to keep it damp. You can do that by keeping it in a sealed container and putting a damp towel in the container for a few minutes every couple hours.
My ratio is 4oz detergent to roughly 3/8 teaspoon dye.
DougCrawford
Double Eagle Member
Thanks!!
Has anyone tried dying fossil plastic (RDG Scale)? It is described as kc pro-ish so I'm thinking its a no-go, but was curious.
jskatt21
Par Member
I have tried to look through this thread, but I think I am a bit confused.
I used to dye discs with Rit dye, however due to the changes Rit made to the formula, and being busy, I have not dyed for a while.
I am looking at getting back into this again, so what is the recommended dye and where can it be found? I may start by just doing some black outlines and such, but any guidance for a former dyer would be great.
I used to dye discs with Rit dye, however due to the changes Rit made to the formula, and being busy, I have not dyed for a while.
I am looking at getting back into this again, so what is the recommended dye and where can it be found? I may start by just doing some black outlines and such, but any guidance for a former dyer would be great.
DougCrawford
Double Eagle Member
iDye poly is what I used, and it turned out great. Make sure its the poly kind. Amazon is where I picked mine up.
tlatoani
Bogey Member
I used some blue quick coat worm dye on a disc. It left some residue that I can't get off. I've tried acetone and rubbing alcohol, and even a razor blade. Any other ideas?
Try that stuff after soaking it in hot water for a couple hours.
tlatoani
Bogey Member
ok, will do. Thanks
I should note that I have no clue if that will actually work, just a thought.
DougCrawford
Double Eagle Member
I'm gonna try cutting my own stencil- couple questions.
Is Orcal 651 the best vinyl to use? (this stuff http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Back...d=1430749853&sr=8-9&keywords=651+vinyl+oracal)
Do fixed or swiveling exacto blades work best for cutting?
Do you cut all the way through the paper backing, or just through the vinyl?
For Multi-color dyes, I have seen people talking about re-cutting the vinyl on the disc, and redoing the whole thing- whats the pro's and con's of each?
Thanks!
Is Orcal 651 the best vinyl to use? (this stuff http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Back...d=1430749853&sr=8-9&keywords=651+vinyl+oracal)
Do fixed or swiveling exacto blades work best for cutting?
Do you cut all the way through the paper backing, or just through the vinyl?
For Multi-color dyes, I have seen people talking about re-cutting the vinyl on the disc, and redoing the whole thing- whats the pro's and con's of each?
Thanks!
1) Yes.
2) Don't know, only ever used fixed.
3) Only the vinyl - takes some practice to get a feel for how much pressure to apply.
4) Not sure exactly what you mean. Once one mask is to the point that you need to remask you don't really have any options other than to remask and cut on the disc. Unless you are a magician and can somehow recut a stencil and line it up perfectly.
IMHO, yes.
Both....swivel blades are quite difficult to get used to and require some solid practice time. A standard Exacto fixed blade is a must-have.
Just the vinyl. Again, gonna take some practice, and use sharp blades. Practice getting used to the amount of force needed to cut the vinyl and NOT the backing paper.
If you're doing black + one other color, you can cut the whole stencil, dye the black, then remove the vinyl for the other color and dye that.
If you're doing two colors and one isn't black, you're going to need to remask. There is no way to accurately apply a second stencil perfectly, so you have to manually cut the remask on the disc regardless of whether you have a plotter.
Again, this is where you need to have the feel of how much pressure and technique it takes to cut the vinyl and the vinyl only, without gauging the disc.
Welcome!
