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[Innova] The mythical Innova ROC

Do you guys have any tips to detect "flippy" champion Roc3's? I just started to throw Roc3's and one of my Roc has become so flippy in only two weeks. It does not have much wear.

I'd like to avoid the flippy ones.

It's likely a combination of low weight, low PLH and poor form. Roc3's are pretty consistent and are made from a nearly indestructible blend of Champion plastic. They also tend to be straighter than a fresh Rancho, but not what would be considered flippy.

I've been using the Roc3 for several months now. They are definitely straighter when powered up compared to the rancho mold. IME, the Roc3s with a little dome to them are more overstable than the real flat ones, but even those are definitely not "flippy". The McPros will be even straighter out of the box and develop some nice turn as they wear. The Glow Champ Roc3 is probably most overstable, but if you need something more, go with a different mold. This disc is not designed to be a meat hook.
 
The Les White Pro shop roc 3 that I have flies like a new rancho DX roc. I usually throw it up to 300 ft. of power before I reach for something else. Nice disc, but it has a small amount of dome. (IMHO essential for a long wearing roc)
 
I've only thrown maybe 10-15 different champ Roc3s since they came out and my general feeling is that the flatter ones are less stable than the ones with a little dome, like goeyj said. None are flippy by any means though.
 
It's likely a combination of low weight, low PLH and poor form. Roc3's are pretty consistent and are made from a nearly indestructible blend of Champion plastic. They also tend to be straighter than a fresh Rancho, but not what would be considered flippy.

My Roc3's are 177-180g. The understable one is 177g. I don't think this has nothing to do with my form. I have 5 Champion Rocs3's. Only one of them is unreliable. Other ones fly really nice.

The Glow Champ Roc3 is probably most overstable, but if you need something more, go with a different mold. This disc is not designed to be a meat hook.

I use Millenium Sentinels for shots that need to fade.
 
I just bought a KC Pro Roc 180g from PIAS for 5 bucks, it has patent numbers. Looks like it is from a tournament from 2011. Would this be a new run 12x Roc? It isnt really stiff, but it is flat. It has some turn in it. It hasnt been used much.

Are 11x more HSS? Should I expect turn out of the older runs brand new? I am new to the Roc family.
 
I just bought a KC Pro Roc 180g from PIAS for 5 bucks, it has patent numbers. Looks like it is from a tournament from 2011. Would this be a new run 12x Roc? It isnt really stiff, but it is flat. It has some turn in it. It hasnt been used much.

Are 11x more HSS? Should I expect turn out of the older runs brand new? I am new to the Roc family.

I don't think the patent numbers were ever removed from the Rancho DX or KC Pro molds. In terms of stability, I think comparing PLH's are your best bet. In my experience the most OS Roc I've throw was a heavy, very flat, stiff swoosh stamp DX Glow Rancho.
 
So, fun Roc story (that you guys should appreciate) incoming.

Yesterday I played a round with a few DX and KC discs I'm trying to put some wear on to straighten out. These included a DX teebird and a KC roc.

The guy at the local park who sells discs let me try out a flat top KC roc. It had a nasty chunk out of it but the flightplate was unwarped and sat flat on a surface. It flew like $$$, super straight like a buzzz with extra glide. The roc I had been attempting to break in has a fair dome on it and flies slower and more stable.

I picked up the flat top roc for $4 and decided to give something a try. I have flat topped a few discs before and found mixed results - some discs turn out flat and OS, some champ plastic refuses to hold the new shape, some star plastic stays domey but gets gummier... The dome was gone, the flightplate "clovered" and ended up very flexible with a wimpy sort of non-KC feel. I threw it back in the hot water, took it out and placed a weight on it in the form of a pot lid, but this time I dripped some ice cold water into the flightplate through a hole in the lid. This is the first time I tried the cold water quench and it worked amazingly - the flightplate is still super clovered but the plastic is stiff as new KC if not more so. I am going to throw the newly clover topped roc next to my newly acquired flat top and get back with results on how the flight was affected. I also flat topped the DX teeb without a cold water quench and it is now flatter and stiff as ever.
 
Have you tried an XT Roc? Sounds exactly like how you described the $$$ flat top. I've been working one in the last couple months and it is money. Nice slow high speed turn with smooth and slow fade and plenty of glide.
 
Have you tried an XT Roc? Sounds exactly like how you described the $$$ flat top. I've been working one in the last couple months and it is money. Nice slow high speed turn with smooth and slow fade and plenty of glide.


Exactly what I'm looking for to pair with my kc pro roc
 
Have you tried an XT Roc? Sounds exactly like how you described the $$$ flat top. I've been working one in the last couple months and it is money. Nice slow high speed turn with smooth and slow fade and plenty of glide.

What's the feel like on the XT pro? Pretty stiff orrr? Pro seems like the most variable plastic there is - R-Pro is awful, KC is nice and I have this one pro leopard that started out feeling very similar to star and has worn in and improved the grip significantly.

Update on the flat topped discs: The clovered roc is now delightfully understable. I can now hyzer flip to straight with fade or get it to go right with a flat or anny release and land without a cut roll.

The teebird flies largely the same with less glide, which is the intended effect.

I have seen posts in the past that state that flat topping tends to lower the PLH due to the flightplate pushing out on the upper edge of the rim which forces the PLH down slightly. I have largely not found this to be the case. What I have found is that flat topping with heat has wildly different results depending on the plastic type and mold. In the future if and when I flat top more discs I'll definitely be using a cold water quench and recommend it to everyone.
 
As they affect the plastic characteristics, are there a better colors for DX Rocs and KC Pro Rocs? I typically order online as the local DGS is a far piece.
 
It's rare to see a KC that isn't white, but I've been seeing a lot of nice yellow DX Rocs. If I was ordering online, that is the color I would take my chances with. Honestly, if you can't pick out your Innova discs in person I would recommend calling the place you're ordering from. I love Innova, but it's impossible to know what you're going to get if you order sight unseen.
 
Yellow kc rocs riright now are the best. I will take pics at gggt illustrating why on Friday or Thursday. Matte texture, high plh, small dome, not flat but not large, nice and os.
 
Actually go back to page 30 and you'll see a comparison pic. Fwiw, all of the stock....ALL of it at gggt is similar to the white roc unless it's a yellow roc.
 
^All but Roc3's, I don't believe the numbers were ever removed from the Rancho, Ontario or SM mold.
 
Actually go back to page 30 and you'll see a comparison pic. Fwiw, all of the stock....ALL of it at gggt is similar to the white roc unless it's a yellow roc.

Do you know anything about the orange KC pro rocs? I've got one sitting in the garage as a back up.
 

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