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Dont Hurt The Trees!

Trees are a lot tougher than plastic. I wonder if the same poeple that are villainizing DG think twice about what their cheeseburger is wrapped in or how many reams of copier paper they waste at work every year?

Mmmmmmm BBQ!!! Beef, pork , chicken...whatever, its all tasty! The pit BBQ here in W. Kentucky gives a very good account of itself too.

Used to love grilling tri-tip when I lived back in SoCal. Fresh caught Halibut, Albacore and Yellowtail with Tri-tip made for a great backyard surf-n-turf combo. Dang I miss it.

Still 90 minutes till lunch...must hold on...
 
I wonder how much damage discs really do?

Some trees get disfigured a bit, depending on the type of bark, but I have my doubts as to how often they are killed. At Earlewood, we have dogwood trees on fairways and near teepads, with lots of disc scars, and some of them have died. BUT, we also have dogwoods far off the fairways that have never been hit---and many of them have died, too. Some oaks and hickories have such hard bark they only damage the disc and enver show any damage on the tree; pines have spongy bark that shows scars but they're just superficial.

Young trees, maybe, but I don't think I've seen dead trees in the first 100' of fairways (where contact would be worst) at a greater rate than trees dying for natural causes.

I suspect heavily-played courses suffer more from soil compaction that discs hitting trees.

*

Oh, and the North Carolinians shouldn't be smug about the BBQ. They're right about the pork requirement, but using the wrong sauce.
 
Trees are a lot tougher than plastic. I wonder if the same poeple that are villainizing DG think twice about what their cheeseburger is wrapped in or how many reams of copier paper they waste at work every year?

Mmmmmmm BBQ!!! Beef, pork , chicken...whatever, its all tasty! The pit BBQ here in W. Kentucky gives a very good account of itself too.

Used to love grilling tri-tip when I lived back in SoCal. Fresh caught Halibut, Albacore and Yellowtail with Tri-tip made for a great backyard surf-n-turf combo. Dang I miss it.

Still 90 minutes till lunch...must hold on...

I hate to be a nagging corrector or something, but BBQ is not whatever - I'm sorry... I am from Memphis, nuff said
 
I don't think I have ever seen a tree die specifically from disc hits. (Not that I have studied it either) They get hit by lightning and survive, drunk rednecks hit them with 4x4s, hunters shoot them and leave things INSIDE them that are poisonous, fires burn them, jerks cut on them, people carve things into them....and yet they live for hundreds of years.
 
Actually, he pronounced it right. Not only do you people in NC not know what barbecue is, but you don't know how to pronounce our parks either. :thmbdown: ;)

Actually I grew up in Lockhart, about 30 min south of Austin. The Texas legislature officially declared Lockhart the BBQ capitol of Texas, so I know a little bit about BBQ and the Austin area.

You are correct about the BBQ, pulled pork with vinegar on top IS NOT BBQ and I refuse to eat BBQ here.

But I think I'm right about it sounding more like peace than pees, at least from the people I know that live there. Plus the peace pronunciation goes way better with the Austin vibe.
 
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If i were a tree id laugh at every disc that hit me just like the rest of the sorry suckers group.Then i would show off my battle scars to the other trees and tell them im better then they are. nothing like tacoing some dx plastic
 
Hole #8 at the Disc Creek Course had a couple of trees that you had to throw through, around, or over. They both had quite a few scars from being hit. A few years ago the one on the left side got removed for some reason (they never did say why). The one on the right is still collecting scars and getting in the way of bad shots...

I remember one tree on the Will Rogers course in OKC, seems like it was on #14 or #15 maybe. It was pretty much right in front of the tee box and boy was it ever scarred up.
 
I just remembered there was one at Hiestand Park that looked like it got hit by lightning because it had this huge burn mark on the side(hole 13).
 
Step 1) Wrap the trees. They make "sealers" that are essentially antibiotics and mild preservatives...The tree version of Bio Foam. Fills the gaps, seals out the crap.

Then wrap the tree in that black or white tree wrap that prevents them from damage when they're young. Hell if you want to get all crazy, give it a padded layer and another wrap over top. You won't even be ABLE to hurt the trees then.

Now for the fairways...throw down some Eco Grass. The stuff roots deeper so it uses more of the available ground water, making it more erosion resistant.

Plus you can just sprinkle it on top of the grass you already have a few times and it'll fill in the gaps!

\/\/
 
If a park has been around long enough and the tree is in the wrong location it could easily be killed as a result of disc golf. Maybe not a direct result. Deep scars and broken branches weaken a trees defenses against insect infestation and disease. Ice, wind and snow damage coupled weakened and cracked branches from being hit could/would kill trees as well. On my home course there are several fruit trees. Apples and pears. Some of those closest to the tee boxes have been killed as a result of disc golf. Those a little further (farther) out show significant damage as well and will not last long.

Its a sad but true price we pay.
 
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According to the University of Minnesota, wrapping a tree can be done but it must be properly installed and maintained or you could hurt the tree worse than the discs. To wit,

from http://www.extension.umn.edu/info-u/environment/BD504.html

"Considerations

•Leaving tightly attached, synthetic or rot-proof wrap on the stem too long may girdle or compress stems, even during the first growing season.
•Thin-barked species, like red maple and linden, have photosynthetic tissue on young stems. Covering this with wrap during the growing season may reduce caliper growth or girth.
•Don't use protectants such as paint or slaked lime. They may chemically damage the stem.
•Light-colored wraps that minimize rapid temperature changes have been reputed to be most helpful in preventing conditions that may cause sunscald or frost cankers at higher elevations. Material that is reflective on the outside and has insulation on the inside will considerably moderate temperature fluctuations. "

So according to this the black corrugated stuff can be used, but it could be detrimental to the health of the tree if it doesn't have a reflective surface on the outside and it isn't replaced on a regular basis.

What I've seen that works well and has no danger of hurting the tree (and needs no maintenance) is to install a wooden post directly in front of the heavily hit tree. The post redirects or takes the brunt of the direct hits and doesn't affect play if installed correctly.
 
these trees are at a course that was put in around 1979 and need some of that magic bio goo:

558d47f1_m.jpg


the pin is about 350' and slightly uphill, so people are taking biiiig rips at them.
 
According to the University of Minnesota, wrapping a tree can be done but it must be properly installed and maintained or you could hurt the tree worse than the discs. To wit,

from http://www.extension.umn.edu/info-u/environment/BD504.html

"Considerations

•Leaving tightly attached, synthetic or rot-proof wrap on the stem too long may girdle or compress stems, even during the first growing season.
•Thin-barked species, like red maple and linden, have photosynthetic tissue on young stems. Covering this with wrap during the growing season may reduce caliper growth or girth.
•Don't use protectants such as paint or slaked lime. They may chemically damage the stem.
•Light-colored wraps that minimize rapid temperature changes have been reputed to be most helpful in preventing conditions that may cause sunscald or frost cankers at higher elevations. Material that is reflective on the outside and has insulation on the inside will considerably moderate temperature fluctuations. "

So according to this the black corrugated stuff can be used, but it could be detrimental to the health of the tree if it doesn't have a reflective surface on the outside and it isn't replaced on a regular basis.

What I've seen that works well and has no danger of hurting the tree (and needs no maintenance) is to install a wooden post directly in front of the heavily hit tree. The post redirects or takes the brunt of the direct hits and doesn't affect play if installed correctly.

Agreed. But we're talking mature trees, and really you only need to black stuff for healing purposes. They could easily surround the tee box side with some fencing to prevent hits in the future as well.

\/\/
 

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