• Discover new ways to elevate your game with the updated DGCourseReview app!
    It's entirely free and enhanced with features shaped by user feedback to ensure your best experience on the course. (App Store or Google Play)

[Innova] For the love of the Bird! ..Teebird that is!

As every disc I've had loses LSS, it becomes a straighter fader... In the context of this thread, it's CERTAINLY true for Teebirds.

I believe you are mistaken. High or more LSS would mean it has a harder finish. Low or less LSS means a straighter finish. I would agree that referring to it as LSF clears up some confusion. The word "stable" is one that people get confused about and don't agree on what it actually means. Some believe it means more neutral or straighter when some use it to mean overstable. In terms of LSS specifically, I believe the "stability" term is referring to how hard it finishes.

So then HST and HSS are the same? High HST tells me it is turning, High HSS tells me it is not
 
high or More HST is more turn. high or More HSS is resistance to turn. At least that's how I refer to them.

That is the way I understood it as well. One is referring to the amount of turn at high speed, the other is referring to the amount of stability (resistance to turn) at high speed
 
Now I question myself on the LSS part. HSS = Resistance to turn but I've always referred to LSS in terms of over stability rather than straight stability. So:
in my mind,
HSS and HST would be inverse
BUT
LSF and LSS would be the same
 
If it's just a coincidence, then why even mention that they are low 170s? If you're not implying the weight plays a factor in the flight then it's not really relevant.

Not trying to be facetious here, but in the "they'll do it every time" department: if he didn't mention the weight, then invariably someone is going to ask what the weights were....
 
Now I question myself on the LSS part. HSS = Resistance to turn but I've always referred to LSS in terms of over stability rather than straight stability. So:
in my mind,
HSS and HST would be inverse
BUT
LSF and LSS would be the same

Right, changing the word stability to fade and that's all.
 
But stability and fade are two complete opposites. If LSF and LSS are indeed the same it would be counter-intuitive and more confusing than it already is. Sorry if it seems I'm stubborn, I just have a really hard time accepting things that do not make sense in my brain raisin. We should probably move this discussion to another thread.
 
But stability and fade are two complete opposites. If LSF and LSS are indeed the same it would be counter-intuitive and more confusing than it already is. Sorry if it seems I'm stubborn, I just have a really hard time accepting things that do not make sense in my brain raisin. We should probably move this discussion to another thread.

There are many mis-used terms in disc golf. I'd love to standardize a set of terms so that there is no confusion when people say things like "more stable." Does that mean more evenly stable or more overstable? IMO it should mean more evenly stable. If you want to say more overstable then say more overstable.

Semantics. Let me know when you get them all ironed out LOL
 
If it's just a coincidence, then why even mention that they are low 170s? If you're not implying the weight plays a factor in the flight then it's not really relevant information. I have not noticed a difference between domey and flat TBS in terms of stability. Although I will say most of my experience is with TBs on the flatter side as I really do not like domey discs so I may not be the best source on that and will take your word for it.

I notice stability difference between plastics and runs and drastic weight differences. Mid to lower 160s are noticeably straighter than 170s. 17 Jen allens and brinsters are beefier than standard champ. Gstar and star tends to be straighter OOTB although I have hadsome real meathook stars occasionally. My favorite TBS were the stock champ run they did around 2010-2013. They were slightly domey, very glidey, straight with great HSS and a very smooth finish.

For me, the TB was meant to be in champ plastic. The flight of a fresh champ TB is what every other company has tried and failed to duplicate.

I agree with the last statement. Though, my first Teebird was in Star and I had it for a long time, for me a Teebird is that beaten in straight flight.

I will ask, if it is really so immaterial, was it really worth typing out a response stating it as such?
 
Now I question myself on the LSS part. HSS = Resistance to turn but I've always referred to LSS in terms of over stability rather than straight stability. So:
in my mind,
HSS and HST would be inverse
BUT
LSF and LSS would be the same

This is correct. Whether it makes sense or not, that is how everyone I have known in disc golf ove my 18 years of playing has used those terms.

I understand it may not make sense to you Brockness, but unfortunately that is the way it goes. There is no real governing body to make these terms unified so we are left to make sense of what we have.

Not trying to be facetious here, but in the "they'll do it every time" department: if he didn't mention the weight, then invariably someone is going to ask what the weights were....

Fair enough. I understand that, but the only reasonI said something is that he said specifically low 170s, if he had just said 170s then I probably wouldn't have batted an eye at it. To me it was the specificity that implied it played a factor.

I agree with the last statement. Though, my first Teebird was in Star and I had it for a long time, for me a Teebird is that beaten in straight flight.

I will ask, if it is really so immaterial, was it really worth typing out a response stating it as such?

I never said it was immaterial, you said the weight was a non factor. I was refuting your comment based on that, but then you said it was not the difference so I made that distinction. I mention it because we are on an disc golf internet forum where we discuss these types of things. If we can't discuss this here then why even have a disc golf forum?
 
I asked in the New Innova Stuff thread but got no response, anyone thrown those white Naughty/Nice Teebird3s? I'm curious about the stiffness of the plastic first, then dome/flight etc.
 
I asked in the New Innova Stuff thread but got no response, anyone thrown those white Naughty/Nice Teebird3s? I'm curious about the stiffness of the plastic first, then dome/flight etc.

If they're anything like the double eagle stamped Eagles, I'd say it's a softer run of star.
 
I picked up a few Pro Teebirds from the latest ProShop run. A little swirly and they feel like butter! Can't wait to test how they fly.
 
I have lost 2 Teebirds in 1 month, one was dead straight and the other stable to slightly OS. I bought 2 Teebirds from different stores and they are both meathooks. They fley like a 7/4/0/3 disc.

I just bought 2 new Teebird3 online, hoping to get something that is normal. If this doesn't work out, any suggestions for other molds that can fill this spot? I'm not that interested beating them in, to lose it and hate life.
 
Last edited:
I have lost 2 Teebirds in 1 month, one was dead straight and the other stable to slightly OS. I bought 2 Teebirds from different stores and they are both meathooks. They fley like a 7/4/0/3 disc.

I just bought 2 new Teebird3 online, hoping to get something that is normal. If this doesn't work out, any suggestions for other molds that can fill this spot? I'm not that interested beating them in, to lose it and hate life.

Yeah I know about those beefy Teebird flights. I also prefer straight and glidey ones.

Gstar Teebirds can be more likely to do what you want and beat in reasonably, but if you don't want that plastic then I understand.

I have thrown Rivals that fly like straight or straight to fade Teebirds, but I don't know how stable they are coming out right now. They were as close to a copy as you can find, although I think feel a touch sleeker to me.

I'd also look into the Explorer, it's very much a Teebird clone but I have not thrown a worn in one, so I don't know if they pick up turn or what seeing as Trilogy plastic generally beats in faster.

For your straight Teebird you can also go to a C-FD, it will do the same things but will need a touch of hyzer. A beat to perfect Teebird is like 7/5/-0/1.5 to me, wheres the FD when fresh is more 7/5/-0.5 to -1/1.5. It will do the same lines if you have angle control but you can't just hit it flat and trust it won't drift right.
 
I have lost 2 Teebirds in 1 month, one was dead straight and the other stable to slightly OS. I bought 2 Teebirds from different stores and they are both meathooks. They fley like a 7/4/0/3 disc.

I just bought 2 new Teebird3 online, hoping to get something that is normal. If this doesn't work out, any suggestions for other molds that can fill this spot? I'm not that interested beating them in, to lose it and hate life.

Give the L64 Explorer a long look. Closest thing to a Teebird I've seen. Very nice driver. Straight with a modest late fade.

I've only thrown 1 Teebird 3, in G*. I liked it. I thought it flew exactly how a Teebird ought to.
 
I have lost 2 Teebirds in 1 month, one was dead straight and the other stable to slightly OS. I bought 2 Teebirds from different stores and they are both meathooks. They fley like a 7/4/0/3 disc.

I just bought 2 new Teebird3 online, hoping to get something that is normal. If this doesn't work out, any suggestions for other molds that can fill this spot? I'm not that interested beating them in, to lose it and hate life.

DX or G*. Or the used bin.
 

Latest posts

Top