SuperWookie
Birdie Member
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2019
- Messages
- 429
Just wondering how much weight and plastic types can effect a discs stability?
For example, lets say I had a disc that said it was a 7/5/0/2, and it's a 175g disc. How much flip or U/S will occur with each ~5g of weight dropped? So if I dropped to a 170g disc that had those flight numbers, what would you on avg expect to see those numbers change too, everything else being the same? And then again by dropping to 165g? And even down to 160g? And what in general is the best weight ranges to stay in? Specifically for FWs and Drivers? I like heavier feeling discs, but just recently bought a Neutron 168g Streamline Trace and I can feel that it weighs less, but it's not a huge difference. But the flight path is! Compared to another Trace I have in stiffer Proton plastic at 173g, there is a moderate difference in flight path and distance. The lighter disc obviously goes farther easier, and it almost turns right, and fades less at the end. The heavier stiffer plastic is harder to get distance and definitely has more fade. But it's cool, because they FEEL exactly the same in my hand, and I know how the disc flies in general. So I'm just looking for more detailed info on this topic, in order to build my bag well and get rid of excess discs and molds.
And same question for the plastic? How much U/S will be added to a discs flight #'s if you go from C or Champ like plastic to S or Star like plastic? And then even maybe down one more to G or Goldline?
I have just been realizing that trying to bag a few molds, but in different weights or plastics is much more common amongst good players. As it allows you to really know a disc, and be used to the amazing feel you know and love. So I've ordered a few discs in different plastics finally and even a lighter weight disc. And I've seen some interesting differences in flight even with the same mold disc.
This is my third year playing and even though I still can't throw properly, I'm at least trying to get my bag sorted out to have less discs, but also cover more shots that are different from each other. I'd rather pair it down to like 3-4 molds of FWs and maybe 2 Drivers, instead of having 18-22 discs, where some of them are so close in flight to each other, and basically overlap each other, that it isn't really even worth carrying them all.
I've started this process on my own, very recently, but would love to hear more from people that have played longer and gone through this already. I really just want to add more consistency to my disc line up, not add more molds and discs, if you know what I mean. Have a 3-4 molds total for FWs and just find different weights and plastics to adjust the stability. If that is possible.
So for example, in my FW discs, I'm currently playing a Goldline 175g Lat 64 Maul as my most U/S disc. When thrown well, it turns softly the whole way. It's like if I could throw a long controlled FH.
Then I move on to a 400 175g Prodigy F5 as my slightly U/S FW disc. It turns a tad when thrown well, and stays there, but it's just ever so slightly to the right. Maybe like 5-10' off center line, then always has a very soft fade at the end. Maybe ends up dead straight or just a few feet right of center. Perfect for wood holes and when I want to mash a hyzer flip.
Then I move on to a 750 175g Prodigy F5. It is very stable for an F5 and plays almost like a stable Discmania FD, with a touch less glide, yet more control. It's basically my dead straight disc and can handle a ton of power and FH's very well.
Then I move on to a 175g Discmania Instinct. Dead straight bombs with a dependable fade of about 10-15' right at the last second of it's flight. Perfect for shots I'd throw my F5's, but need and want a touch more stability and want the disc to finish left for sure.
Then on to my FD2 Color Glow Royal Rage, etc etc etc, on down the line.
So I'm just looking for general info on how much weight and plastic could effect the same mold disc if I dropped 5g, 10g or changed plastics? Because as of right now, I've been usually just buying completely new discs all over the place trying to find discs that I like the feel of, trust, and feel in my hand. So I more or less have a good overall impression of a lot of discs now. And I've got my favorites and my not so favorites. So now, I just want to trim my playing bag down to only what is necessary, but make sure I've got most or all shots covered. I want ALL my discs to be relevant, know I can trust them and feel good in my hand.
When I've seen these IN THE BAG videos recently of all the top players, I keep noticing that they only use 2-4 total molds at most for each type of disc. So for example, Simon only has 1 or 2 putter molds. And he just finds ones that are U/S, stable and O/S. Then same thing for mids. He has like 2-3 molds he likes, then just finds discs that are U/S, stable and O/S of that mold. And same for FW's and Drivers. And same for most pros. They don't bag like 4 different putter molds, 4 different mid molds, 7 FW molds and 4 driver molds, haha. They just find lighter or heavier or domier or flatter or U/S or O/S versions of that disc they like. Which when you think about it, makes more sense then always reaching for a new mold and throwing tons of different shaped/feeling discs. It doesn't install confidence and consistency.
But I feel like I haven't explored or know that much about how weight and plastic type can effect a the same mold of a disc. Or even domey vs flat? Or parting line heights? Etc. I mean, I know the basics: that a stiffer harder C like plastic will usually be more O/S, and a heavier or max weight disc will also usually always be more stable. Domier usually glides more than flat tops. And higher parting line heights usually make a disc more O/S. But I don't know how those variables change the discs flight by how much?
For example, lets say I had a disc that said it was a 7/5/0/2, and it's a 175g disc. How much flip or U/S will occur with each ~5g of weight dropped? So if I dropped to a 170g disc that had those flight numbers, what would you on avg expect to see those numbers change too, everything else being the same? And then again by dropping to 165g? And even down to 160g? And what in general is the best weight ranges to stay in? Specifically for FWs and Drivers? I like heavier feeling discs, but just recently bought a Neutron 168g Streamline Trace and I can feel that it weighs less, but it's not a huge difference. But the flight path is! Compared to another Trace I have in stiffer Proton plastic at 173g, there is a moderate difference in flight path and distance. The lighter disc obviously goes farther easier, and it almost turns right, and fades less at the end. The heavier stiffer plastic is harder to get distance and definitely has more fade. But it's cool, because they FEEL exactly the same in my hand, and I know how the disc flies in general. So I'm just looking for more detailed info on this topic, in order to build my bag well and get rid of excess discs and molds.
And same question for the plastic? How much U/S will be added to a discs flight #'s if you go from C or Champ like plastic to S or Star like plastic? And then even maybe down one more to G or Goldline?
I have just been realizing that trying to bag a few molds, but in different weights or plastics is much more common amongst good players. As it allows you to really know a disc, and be used to the amazing feel you know and love. So I've ordered a few discs in different plastics finally and even a lighter weight disc. And I've seen some interesting differences in flight even with the same mold disc.
This is my third year playing and even though I still can't throw properly, I'm at least trying to get my bag sorted out to have less discs, but also cover more shots that are different from each other. I'd rather pair it down to like 3-4 molds of FWs and maybe 2 Drivers, instead of having 18-22 discs, where some of them are so close in flight to each other, and basically overlap each other, that it isn't really even worth carrying them all.
I've started this process on my own, very recently, but would love to hear more from people that have played longer and gone through this already. I really just want to add more consistency to my disc line up, not add more molds and discs, if you know what I mean. Have a 3-4 molds total for FWs and just find different weights and plastics to adjust the stability. If that is possible.
So for example, in my FW discs, I'm currently playing a Goldline 175g Lat 64 Maul as my most U/S disc. When thrown well, it turns softly the whole way. It's like if I could throw a long controlled FH.
Then I move on to a 400 175g Prodigy F5 as my slightly U/S FW disc. It turns a tad when thrown well, and stays there, but it's just ever so slightly to the right. Maybe like 5-10' off center line, then always has a very soft fade at the end. Maybe ends up dead straight or just a few feet right of center. Perfect for wood holes and when I want to mash a hyzer flip.
Then I move on to a 750 175g Prodigy F5. It is very stable for an F5 and plays almost like a stable Discmania FD, with a touch less glide, yet more control. It's basically my dead straight disc and can handle a ton of power and FH's very well.
Then I move on to a 175g Discmania Instinct. Dead straight bombs with a dependable fade of about 10-15' right at the last second of it's flight. Perfect for shots I'd throw my F5's, but need and want a touch more stability and want the disc to finish left for sure.
Then on to my FD2 Color Glow Royal Rage, etc etc etc, on down the line.
So I'm just looking for general info on how much weight and plastic could effect the same mold disc if I dropped 5g, 10g or changed plastics? Because as of right now, I've been usually just buying completely new discs all over the place trying to find discs that I like the feel of, trust, and feel in my hand. So I more or less have a good overall impression of a lot of discs now. And I've got my favorites and my not so favorites. So now, I just want to trim my playing bag down to only what is necessary, but make sure I've got most or all shots covered. I want ALL my discs to be relevant, know I can trust them and feel good in my hand.
When I've seen these IN THE BAG videos recently of all the top players, I keep noticing that they only use 2-4 total molds at most for each type of disc. So for example, Simon only has 1 or 2 putter molds. And he just finds ones that are U/S, stable and O/S. Then same thing for mids. He has like 2-3 molds he likes, then just finds discs that are U/S, stable and O/S of that mold. And same for FW's and Drivers. And same for most pros. They don't bag like 4 different putter molds, 4 different mid molds, 7 FW molds and 4 driver molds, haha. They just find lighter or heavier or domier or flatter or U/S or O/S versions of that disc they like. Which when you think about it, makes more sense then always reaching for a new mold and throwing tons of different shaped/feeling discs. It doesn't install confidence and consistency.
But I feel like I haven't explored or know that much about how weight and plastic type can effect a the same mold of a disc. Or even domey vs flat? Or parting line heights? Etc. I mean, I know the basics: that a stiffer harder C like plastic will usually be more O/S, and a heavier or max weight disc will also usually always be more stable. Domier usually glides more than flat tops. And higher parting line heights usually make a disc more O/S. But I don't know how those variables change the discs flight by how much?
