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[MVP] MVP VOLT - The Comprehensive Thread

I may have had a couple of flukes, but from my experience I'd say you're kidding yourself if you think the newer Volts are only 'slightly' more OS than the original runs.

Mine are NOT line holders. They both fight out of annys fairly aggressively (see the lite blue one in photo.) The Amp I bag now is much closer to the older Volts I have than the new Volts are...but, of course, heaven forbid you should have to quit DG...
 
I was reading an older thread about the tangent and read about people using almost boiling water to make the disc flatter and thus more under stable. Someone in that thread said you could do it to neutron plastic as well. Is this true? Could I make an neutron amp out of the box a little more us?
 
I was reading an older thread about the tangent and read about people using almost boiling water to make the disc flatter and thus more under stable. Someone in that thread said you could do it to neutron plastic as well. Is this true? Could I make an neutron amp out of the box a little more us?

I made a stable Amp (stable at 300' of power) more understable by using the hot water to flatten it. Itworked good at first but it went back to be ing a bit more stable than when I first flattened it.
 
Well for me the volt/amp/shock speed class has no room for me anymore. The inertia while faster isn't that much faster and the fairways are sneaky long. Looks like I'll be getting rid of my volts soon. Haven't bagged them in some time now and kept them around for a revisit. The distance difference between the crave and volt is negligible. And a powered down inertia can cover volt shots. Exciting times for me and my bag this season.
 
I'll be keeping the volt until the Tesla comes out. I agree about the volt and crave overlapping however I live in Texas and into a slight headwind the volt is more stable and won't turn over like the crave or servo will.
 
I will never drop the volt because its a huge staple in my bag and i have built up great consistency with the mold, but i am dropping the Amp and using the Inertia instead and then Switch for the shorter throws.

The Tesla will have to be a hell of a disc for me to consider dropping the volt.. seriously?
 
I'd think an eclipse proton volt and an f2 are similar. the neutron volt would probably fall in between the f2 and f3. I think the volt is a touch faster of a disc, though, but I could be wrong.
 
I'd think an eclipse proton volt and an f2 are similar. the neutron volt would probably fall in between the f2 and f3. I think the volt is a touch faster of a disc, though, but I could be wrong.

I'm certain that the rim of the Volt is wider, but not by a ton. Volt cuts through the air better, and that's why I use it in the "control driver" slot. Not quite long enough to be a true distance driver, but significantly longer than a fairway driver i.e. Eagle, Teebird, Prodigy F-Series et al.
 
I'm certain that the rim of the Volt is wider, but not by a ton. Volt cuts through the air better, and that's why I use it in the "control driver" slot. Not quite long enough to be a true distance driver, but significantly longer than a fairway driver i.e. Eagle, Teebird, Prodigy F-Series et al.

:thmbup:
 
yea I also consider the volt a bit longer than your average fairway driver. The servo maybe more what he is looking for? haven't thrown one of those yet so not sure how OS it is. I would think the resistor is more OS than what he is looking for.
 
depends on what volt you get. I would say somewhere in the 8.5 speed range maybe 9. The eclipse proton are noticeably more OS than the neutron. I haven't thrown the regular proton but I would think there are also more OS. The servo/crave class is alittle slower, maybe 7-7.5 speed. Ive only test thrown a f2 a couple times but it seemed like it would compare stability wise to an eclipse volt. There might be some variance due to weight or throwing style.
 
Both. new machines and improved QC now make for less variance than before across all models. It would appear they have figured out how to cool the discs quickly. No domey discs and consistency has actually improved with the volume increasing. :clap:

Actually Aim, if they cool the discs quickly, it will cause them to contract more creating more dome. What they have probably figured out is just the right amount of cooling time while in the mold so that the part does not have to cool as much once exposed to the air.
 
I may have had a couple of flukes, but from my experience I'd say you're kidding yourself if you think the newer Volts are only 'slightly' more OS than the original runs.

Mine are NOT line holders. They both fight out of annys fairly aggressively (see the lite blue one in photo.) The Amp I bag now is much closer to the older Volts I have than the new Volts are...but, of course, heaven forbid you should have to quit DG...

OK, so I need to do a bit of a redaction.

I have had limited chances to throw for like 4 months. I've spent the last week or so getting some field work in. Last night I not only refound my form, I had a bit of an aha moment with my pull through the hit. It was a plateau-jump type realization.

Anyways, several discs have changed a good bit in character overnight, and the newer Volt is one of them. My E still has mad HSS, I don't really get turn out of it, but it's holding lines through about 85% of it's flight, with a predictable/moderate fade.

So, sorry Volt for bad-mouthing you!

And dude, what I can get the Servo to do now....meeeYowww.
 
Lost my first run volt yesterday :| luckily it was a "real" volt so no biggy to replace but it was the 2nd MVP disc I ever bought :( No more black volts for me'
 
This disc is crazy. I'm carrying a Neutron, Proton, and Eclipse at the moment. My go to driver!
 
MmmHmm. Luckily the crave can pretty much fill the same slot too being that volt was thrashed up and seasoned nice so it makes for no need to carry 3-4 volts at different stages of wear.
 

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