Lurp Nuts
* Ace Member *
Well, here we are, I am so bored that I'm going to make a post about my bag. It hasn't dramatically changed in over 5 years, with the only movements being cycled-in discs, and the introduction of the Zone and the Polecat.
The "x/10" numbers mostly refer to the stability of the disc relative to new, not so much the seller's grade.
D1 169g, 8/10, 400 First Run - overstable
D1 167g, 8/10, 400 Proto - extraordinarily neutral (go-to backhand)
D1 166g, 5/10, 400 Proto - flippy, these protos had very little fade to begin with
PD 175g, 7/10 C-Line First Run - overstable
PD 175g, 5/10, C-Line First Run - straight to slightly overstable (go-to backhand or forehand)
TD 168g, 7/10, C-Line Later bubbles run - straight to slightly understable
RoadRunner 169g, 4/10, Champion, The fourth disc I ever bought, super flippy
Firebird 175g, 9/10, Champion FAF - always keep a fresh one around for when things get weird
Firebird 167g, 5/10, Champion FAF - straight to fade, little wiggle, but with huge torque resistance
FD 168g, 6/10, C-Line Second Run - dead straight woods disc
Leopard3 175g, 5/10, Drew Gibson sig Luster - straight to flippy woods disc
Roc 180g, 8/10, Multi-Purpose KC, straight to fade
Roc 180g, 6/10, Multi-Purpose KC, dead straight to slight turn
Roc 180g, 3/10, Multi-Purpose KC, flips and rollers
Zone 175g, 7/10, McBeth First Run Z, straight to fade (go-to forehand)
Wizard 175g, 8/10, Soft, straight to fade
Wizard 175g, 6/10, Soft, dead straight to slight turn (go-to backhand)
Wizard 175g, 3/10, Soft, super flippy, basically my version of 'greenie"
Polecat 168g, 6/10, DX, the disc I never knew I needed, always thought I could just use a beat Wizard, but this thing is incredible.
2x Voodoos, 175g, glow, putting only
I will include an extra newer 2nd Run FD and Luster Leopard3 if I know I'll be playing a tight course.
The only real hole I would address would be a truly flippy maximum distance disc, but that far out I usually just roll the RR or do a D1 flex. Honorable mentions go to my Eagle Ls who often come in when I want to spice things up, old mold Neutron Anodes, and a stack of S and P-Line PDs that get used when I feel out of shape and struggle to fully maneuver the C-lines.
The "x/10" numbers mostly refer to the stability of the disc relative to new, not so much the seller's grade.
D1 169g, 8/10, 400 First Run - overstable
D1 167g, 8/10, 400 Proto - extraordinarily neutral (go-to backhand)
D1 166g, 5/10, 400 Proto - flippy, these protos had very little fade to begin with
PD 175g, 7/10 C-Line First Run - overstable
PD 175g, 5/10, C-Line First Run - straight to slightly overstable (go-to backhand or forehand)
TD 168g, 7/10, C-Line Later bubbles run - straight to slightly understable
RoadRunner 169g, 4/10, Champion, The fourth disc I ever bought, super flippy
Firebird 175g, 9/10, Champion FAF - always keep a fresh one around for when things get weird
Firebird 167g, 5/10, Champion FAF - straight to fade, little wiggle, but with huge torque resistance
FD 168g, 6/10, C-Line Second Run - dead straight woods disc
Leopard3 175g, 5/10, Drew Gibson sig Luster - straight to flippy woods disc
Roc 180g, 8/10, Multi-Purpose KC, straight to fade
Roc 180g, 6/10, Multi-Purpose KC, dead straight to slight turn
Roc 180g, 3/10, Multi-Purpose KC, flips and rollers
Zone 175g, 7/10, McBeth First Run Z, straight to fade (go-to forehand)
Wizard 175g, 8/10, Soft, straight to fade
Wizard 175g, 6/10, Soft, dead straight to slight turn (go-to backhand)
Wizard 175g, 3/10, Soft, super flippy, basically my version of 'greenie"
Polecat 168g, 6/10, DX, the disc I never knew I needed, always thought I could just use a beat Wizard, but this thing is incredible.
2x Voodoos, 175g, glow, putting only
I will include an extra newer 2nd Run FD and Luster Leopard3 if I know I'll be playing a tight course.
The only real hole I would address would be a truly flippy maximum distance disc, but that far out I usually just roll the RR or do a D1 flex. Honorable mentions go to my Eagle Ls who often come in when I want to spice things up, old mold Neutron Anodes, and a stack of S and P-Line PDs that get used when I feel out of shape and struggle to fully maneuver the C-lines.