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Tee Pad Costs

roadtripstuff

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Columbus, Ohio
I know there are a couple of old threads on this topic, but I am hoping for a little more concrete, pun very much intended, information on the cost of installing tee pads.

First, I am looking for someone that has recently installed concrete tee pads. I am looking at installing 6-9 concrete tee pads, either 12x5 foot or 10x5 foot and would like to get a rough estimate on the cost. Through my research I have seen that the most cost effective way is to have the concrete delivered but I could only find that info for installing 18 tee pads. If I end up only installing 6 do they normally deliver smaller amounts, I was under the impression that most places have a required amount.

Those are some of my basic questions, but I am interested in any info, tips, etc from anyone that has installed concrete pads.

Thanks in advance.
 
A 12x5 teepad requires right around 3/4 of a cubic yard of concrete. Most trucks can carry around 9 cubic yards (I actually think that's the DOT limit in OH) so if you're doing 9 teepads you're going to be using close to a full load.

Right now, in N. KY, a cubic yard of concrete is going for right around $105/cubic yard give or take. (Delivered) That number can go up or down based on the precise mix you're going for. (PSI rating, air entrained or not, cold weather additives, etc.)
 
Obviously a large concrete truck can't drive all around most dg courses. If you have the equipment (skid steer, tractor, etc.) It might make more sense to pour all the slabs in a central, easily accessed location. Then after they cure move them into place with the equipment.

You'd definitely need to reinforce the slabs if you go this route. (I'd reinforce regardless.) A grid of welded wire mesh and/or #4 (1/2") rebar would do the job.
 
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^Yea if you have a bad area for a concrete truck to move around in, it might be better to pour and move them later. But if you are worried about moving them, don't have the right equipment or are just want to pour them at the holes to make sure they fit it properly, you might be able to find someone that has a smaller mobile concrete mixer. Don't know what the cost difference might be, though...
 
^Yea if you have a bad area for a concrete truck to move around in, it might be better to pour and move them later. But if you are worried about moving them, don't have the right equipment or are just want to pour them at the holes to make sure they fit it properly, you might be able to find someone that has a smaller mobile concrete mixer. Don't know what the cost difference might be, though...

There's also concrete buggies that you could rent. Little powerized dump carts that can hold about a pad's worth of concrete so you can shuttle it from the loading spot to the actual pad location.
 
There's also concrete buggies that you could rent. Little powerized dump carts that can hold about a pad's worth of concrete so you can shuttle it from the loading spot to the actual pad location.

This can also be done with a front end loader on a tractor of sufficient size.
 
This can also be done with a front end loader on a tractor of sufficient size.

Yep.

There's even concrete hopper attachments for skid steers that I've seen. The concrete guy that did the foundation work on my house used one for some of the frost footers.

Lots of ways to skin this cat.
 
A 12x5 teepad requires right around 3/4 of a cubic yard of concrete. Most trucks can carry around 9 cubic yards (I actually think that's the DOT limit in OH) so if you're doing 9 teepads you're going to be using close to a full load.

Right now, in N. KY, a cubic yard of concrete is going for right around $105/cubic yard give or take. (Delivered) That number can go up or down based on the precise mix you're going for. (PSI rating, air entrained or not, cold weather additives, etc.)

Obviously a large concrete truck can't drive all around most dg courses. If you have the equipment (skid steer, tractor, etc.) It might make more sense to pour all the slabs in a central, easily accessed location. Then after they cure move them into place with the equipment.

You'd definitely need to reinforce the slabs if you go this route. (I'd reinforce regardless.) A grid of welded wire mesh and/or #4 (1/2") rebar would do the job.

I think we could do a central pour location and have them moved. The parks department has a couple of tractors and what not, and I have a decent relationship with the maintenance department after putting in a ton of work on the course last summer.

So if the prices are close to what you stated, I realize it will change by location and like you said the mix, but it sounds like I could prob do 9 tee pads for around $1000-$1200, does that sounds about right. Including the mesh/rebar and the 2x4s for the framing.
 
I think we could do a central pour location and have them moved. The parks department has a couple of tractors and what not, and I have a decent relationship with the maintenance department after putting in a ton of work on the course last summer.

So if the prices are close to what you stated, I realize it will change by location and like you said the mix, but it sounds like I could prob do 9 tee pads for around $1000-$1200, does that sounds about right. Including the mesh/rebar and the 2x4s for the framing.

Probably in the right neighborhood.

Don't forget you'll want a nice level, compacted stone gravel base prepared when you go to put the pads in place. Some additional costs there too.
 
if you are only looking at only the raw materials cost then yea, sure, you might be in the neighborhood. But you really need to take into account all of the real costs. The amount of prep work for each teepad is a lot of time. Time is money. The tools required to move the concrete to the right spot on the course costs money. For a contractor to do everything, I've found it closer to ~$500-$750 per teepad neighborhood. Maybe a more upscale neighborhood. So, costs for teepads can vary widely depending on who is doing the work. For a public park you might be required (because of liability) to go with the more expensive options. Good luck!
 
A 12x5 teepad requires right around 3/4 of a cubic yard of concrete. Most trucks can carry around 9 cubic yards (I actually think that's the DOT limit in OH) so if you're doing 9 teepads you're going to be using close to a full load.

Right now, in N. KY, a cubic yard of concrete is going for right around $105/cubic yard give or take. (Delivered) That number can go up or down based on the precise mix you're going for. (PSI rating, air entrained or not, cold weather additives, etc.)


I recommend:

3000-3500 PSI, air entrained, water reducer admix at about a 5" slump

-or-

Tell your supplier you want city sidewalk mix. Which is exactly the kind of stress these pads will go under. Mostly foot traffic and the occasional lawn-mower or the like

In either case I see the OP is from Ohio and they will definitely want air entrainment which for that area I suspect the recommended amount is around 4.5-6%.
 
I was going to recommend 4000psi because that's pretty much the exterior slab standard around here. Probably a bit overkill for teepads though.
Definitely air entrained.
 
Nah...4000 isn't that overkill really so long as the supplier charging a stupid amount more.

Oh and another thing I see people overlook when installing pads - be sure to put them on a well compacted material like sand or road gravel and install them on a very slight slope one way or the other so water doesn't pond on them. 1% to 2% is about perfect where folks don't notice but it moves the water. 1% to 2% = 1' to 2' rise over 100' run -or- a 5' wide pad will need to have one side 0.6" to 1.2" higher than the other. Sounds like a lot but it really isn't. This is again, a lot like how a typical sidewalk is installed.
 
What is that, why do you want it, and how do you know if you got it?

Air entrainment is putting tiny bubbles in the concrete so that when exposed to freeze/thaw cycles it can expand and contract as needed. Different regions of the country have different industry standards on the amount of air entrainment required. Here in Michigan you need 5.5% - 8%. The way you know is to ask your supplier for it and most of them like repeat business and not lawsuits so they'll put it in the mix and their delivery tickets will show if it entrainment is in there. If you don't have it the concrete will spall and deteriorate in the winter weather. There are tests for it (I've done hundreds of these tests) where you can get a an air meter to test for it. For a disc golf course however, that's going to be WAY outside of the budget to hire an engineering firm to do those tests.

tl:dr - get concrete from a reputable supplier and make sure they know its for outdoor use much like a sidewalk.
 
Pre Casting in a central location and move with a TLB or Bobcat skid steer, Form work, 100 bucks a pad.
 
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