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Trying to minimize molds... but where?

Beachwail

Bogey Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
68
Location
Folly Beach, SC
Here's my bag currently, which includes molds I'm testing/overlap.
I have greyed out some of the ones I think I will take out of the bag.
Playing a heavy water home course forces me to bring backups in the Driver and Max D categories.

Magic (putter)
Pure (putter)
JK Aviar (putter)


-- Mids up to ~280' --
Opto Fuse (anny mid)
FLX Buzz (straight mid)
Opto Pain (hyzer mid, approach)
D Drone (hyzer mid, approach)
CFR Gator (extreme meathook, distance control, skips)

-- Fairways up to ~320' --
Pro Leopard (control, annys)
Star Teebird (control, straight)
11x Firebird (hyzers and tomahawks)
Pearly Monster (hyzers and tomahawks)

-- Drivers up to ~360' --
Tourny King (long anny)
Champ Roadrunner (long anny)
Pearly Orc (long flex shots)
Star Valkyrie (straight, stable)
Z Tracker (straight, stable, hyzers)
Z Predator (straight, stable, hyzers)

*DS Destroyer (long hyzer, very overstable)
Star Boss (long hyzer, very overstable)


-- Max D ~400' --
Pro Katana (anny or flex bombs)
Star Katana (flex bombs)
D Force (straight or hyzer bombs)
 
I think minimalization is only necessary if you have overlapping. Find where the overlap is, then minimize.. I carry 3 putters; KC Aviar (main putter), Rhyno (headwind putter/overstable upshot) and a Pure (magical upshot disc). If you're having to choose between two different discs for the same shot on the course, then one needs to be taken out.
 
You could probably take out either the orc or the valk; also the Force or the Destroyer; also probably the buzzz or pain (or gator).
 
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You could replace all your "drivers" with PDs in different plastics and wear stages. It's made with a Firebird wing so it should already feel comfortable to you.
-Beat P-Line for annys
-Newer P-Line/seasoned S-Line for straight
-New S-Line for flex shots and hyzers

Put the Predator back in for overstable shots, and you've covered in 2 molds what you previously did in 8. Just a thought.
 
I would replace the Gator & Drone with a z-zone.

This is a good call!:hfive:

I actually like the setup you have with the expection of I would carry a couple of Valks and Orcs. This way you have ones in different stages of wear. Once the Valk gets worn in, it should replace the RR.

Also if the water is getting to you get yourself a 130something Blizzards Katana, it should float and hold crazy annys for you.
 
Putters - magics
Mids - fuse, buzzzes and gator (add a glow for stability)
Fairway - teebird and leo
Beef - firebird
Distance - orc and valks (pro or dx for understable)
If you need a warp speed, just go with 1 mold... Maybe a protana?
 
So you guys think it's better to have "specialized" worn-in discs rather than a newer mold that flies like its beat-in big brother?
Wouldnt that make your discs a little harder to replace if lost?
Theres enough inconsistency from production runs - even of same molds - this is what makes it tricky.

Like for instance my worn 165 pearly orc is more flippy than my super grippy 174 valkyrie.
This valk thinks it's an orc, and this orc thinks it's a sidewinder!

Cool answers, you guys are making me think :)
 
So you guys think it's better to have "specialized" worn-in discs rather than a newer mold that flies like its beat-in big brother?
You started this thread in the name of mold minimalism. How else are you thinking you'll be able to accomplish this?
Wouldnt that make your discs a little harder to replace if lost?
Theres enough inconsistency from production runs - even of same molds - this is what makes it tricky.

Like for instance my worn 165 pearly orc is more flippy than my super grippy 174 valkyrie.
This valk thinks it's an orc, and this orc thinks it's a sidewinder!

Cool answers, you guys are making me think :)
While it would be difficult to find a replacement for your perfectly seasoned mold, the marketplace will at least help you get closer to it than buying new, and it'll be cheaper than buying new...
 

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