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Unexpected Driving Distance Question

Scottsan

Newbie
Joined
Oct 13, 2014
Messages
11
Location
Tallahassee, FL
Not sure how to address this, but I have these odd drives that are significantly longer than average and I know there's a way of harnessing that as I improve my form.

I've been working on technique, throwing flat as possible . . . just a simple extended reach-back with one step. Most of my favored drivers are stable to understable. If I really "go for it" on a drive, I can turnover any of my usual drivers . . . least a little. My drives average 225 to 250.

The last hole on my home course is fairly open . . . OB road on the left with decorative, sentinal trees lining it and leading to a basket at 360 feet. My usual play is a stable drive to the right of the trees so the drive glides clear, leaving me with a clean 100-foot approach. But every now and then (like this morning with a Q-JLS), I'll turn the disc over significantly and it just goes and goes . . . over 300 feet, for sure. I don't think I'm rotating my wrist, or grip-locking. Maybe OAT?

I'd love to nail it down so I can make those drives in the direction I MEAN to throw. Because I'm pretty certain I should be throwing 50 to 75 feet (at least) more than I do.
 
Anhyzer lines are the easiest way to get more distance. Not an easy way to be accurate, but certainly it will stay up longer before hitting the ground.
 
I think you're right about the OAT...if you have a disc that is too fast and stable for your current form, and you give it some torque, that will turn it over enough and it will keep fighting it. This will keep it in the air long enough to get that 300' before it fades out, compared to a harder and earlier fade on a more clean release.

No discs besides some putters or very understable mids should really be turning over if you're throwing them under 250' so that is torque for sure.

You are likely strong arming, and may be gripping the disc in a nose up manner. Those two things make it hard to get up to 300'.
 
I have owned several beat to death dx discs that I loved. Bar stamped dx valks and dx teebirds. Anyway. I've had friends that can only throw 250 that don't throw sidearm. So I was like here try this and handed them a beat Valkyrie and teebird (which are def roller/trick shotdiscs) and told them itll turnover no prob for them. And I watched in amazement when they did not at all turn.

So I think from my experience Slowplastic is correct.
 
Thanks, guys.

I need to have someone video my drives from different angles, but I'm often doing rounds/fieldwork alone. I don't think torque is a chronic problem, but it seems to happen on that hole more than anywhere else. I like that my current under-construction drive style has resulted in more accuracy out of the hand, relying on disc knowledge. The vast majority of my drives go where I THINK they should go for the first 100-150 feet And many of my discs are beat-up DXs, so there's always a slight RHBH shift to the right. My Cheetah (and, sometimes, my Valkyrie) completely flips into a roller when I don't want it to (likely torque issue). Predicably, my new Orc and Hurricane are meathooks.
 
Vids would be great and Many more qualified then I will help you with that. I can only say what helped me which was to buy a mako and learn to throw that far. Don't even need to play with it, just field work. Likely you'll put in the bag after a bit. My first two aces were with makos and not for lack of hitting the basket. I just used to throw way to hard and it would always spit out.
 
I can only say what helped me which was to buy a mako and learn to throw that far. Don't even need to play with it, just field work. Likely you'll put in the bag after a bit. My first two aces were with makos and not for lack of hitting the basket. I just used to throw way to hard and it would always spit out.

Anything comparable to a Mako that I may have? (My putt/approach discs include DX Aviar, DX Shark [beat to absolute Hell], DX Rhino, Soft Magnet, and a Champion Cobra).
 
Anything comparable to a Mako that I may have? (My putt/approach discs include DX Aviar, DX Shark [beat to absolute Hell], DX Rhino, Soft Magnet, and a Champion Cobra).

The Shark, I'd say. It's a bit slower than the Mako, though generally similar in flight.
 
The dx aviar should show everything pretty well. I feel like a beat disc has a lot to teach as well but a under stable disc on a good rip may turn over and make you think you did something wrong. A neutral disc will stay true for the most part. It can show if your throwing with a bit of hyzer or anny, if your rounding your shoulder, nose up and if your not accelerating the disc.

I think the aviar should be neutral enough though
 
Aviar and Shark are definitely good...if you screw up they will go to the right. If you throw them clean they will go pretty much dead straight. They are slow enough that you don't have to try to kill them, just snap them cleanly and they will glide straight. But if you mess up you know it.
 
Upwards of the Shark (and short of overstable distance drivers), I have a Glo Leopard, beat DX Cheetah, DX Eagle, XL, Q-JLS, Flash, Dragon, X-Cyclone (new), Champion Spider (pretty slow), and DX Archangel (don't use that one too much . . . might be longer than fairway with some work). In the almost-too-understable-to-throw category, I have a DX Stingray and an Xpress. I use my Valkyrie for understable distance drives (such as they are), so not really "fairway" for me.
 
Vids would be great and Many more qualified then I will help you with that.

I actually had the chance to get video of me driving from different angles. Not gonna post (horrifying). I don't see any obvious torque issues; my bigger distance-related problems are lack of good follow through and not rotating my body into throw. Also pulling releasing disc more nose-up than intended. (Throwing motion not as straight-across as I was going for.) I'm going to fieldwork correcting those issues and hopefully not add torque and then do more video studies.
 
I actually had the chance to get video of me driving from different angles. Not gonna post (horrifying). I don't see any obvious torque issues; my bigger distance-related problems are lack of good follow through and not rotating my body into throw. Also pulling releasing disc more nose-up than intended. (Throwing motion not as straight-across as I was going for.) I'm going to fieldwork correcting those issues and hopefully not add torque and then do more video studies.

Please do post the videos. One thing I learned quickly after posting my first set of videos is that there was say 10 things I was doing wrong. 5 of which I knew about. 5 I didn't. But the key is - the kind folks here can quickly look at those and pick the 1-2 most important that you should focus on first. THAT is really hard to do for a beginner.

Let the experienced form guys here give you the key pieces you should work on first and as you get those (mostly) under control, you can post an updated video and get the next 1-2 things to focus on.

And that reminds me...I need to go grab some new videos...
 
Sounds like you're struggling with rolling the wrist, oat, torque, etc, etc. My personal opinion would be to get a stable putter and just throw the hell out of it for a while until you can throw it full power and it sails straight and level from the release. After that start looking into mids and do the same thing. Work your way up to fairway drivers and max d drivers. You want the disc to do what it's supposed to do, not force it to do something it's not supposed to do.
 
I'm not a form monkey, sidewinder and HUB (and others) will help better then I. I do notice that you do not turn your shoulders back (I guess that means they are open the entire time). Also on your reach back instead of straight back on a line or the wide rail you actually pull from behind your body. When you planted your front foot was turned away from the target. Plant should be 90 degrees max to 45 degrees minimum from the target. Your throwing from your back leg. Watch the feldberg hip video. Your not getting elbow extension.

This is my first time so please don't be mad If I diagnose a few of your problems wrong. I'm learning as well, but I'm starting to realize if I want to help myself I need to better understand others as well.
 
Swinging off plane/OAT and coming down over top the disc. Your shoulders and spine should finish on the yellow lines which would be on plane to the disc for hyzer. Also you are leaning back and forth instead of turning back and forth upright and balanced, and rounding your pull instead of keeping it straight or wide.
 

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