Wet Shoes

Great waterproof shoes are OK/pretty good.

That's the "goretex" ones and well designed leather boots—requiring maintenance.

The vast majority of waterproof boots are bad/passable.

That's anything treated, a lot of leather boots with weird cloth panels, stitching low on the toe box allowing water in.

"Trail runners" are always good.

That's a tennis shoe with a nice aggressive sole. You wear one with a wool sock that has a firm stretchy fit—like Smartwool PhD. You're wet, but it doesn't matter. You change out of this at the car—or just wear until you're dry again.

Cold icy slush/mud? Welp that's a bit different than "dewy grass"...the stock of any boot rises here. Heck, I do a neoprene dive boot with rubber sole. I've actually used that for a ton of winter activities even where there's better options in DRY or BITTER cold. It's only in times where water exposure is going to CHILL you that you want to take steps to prevent that exposure.

Be in control of your gear vs let it control you—get wet, wear right socks.
 
During warm months I wear water shoes with no socks. Water shoes are designed to walk thru water while canoeing or kayaking. Your feet will get wet in heavy dew or rain, but feel comfortable regardless, and they dry quickly. Also a bonus with these type of shoes is you can wash them to keep the smell down; most shoes/boots do not take kindly to repeated washings.

https://www.merrell.com/US/en/hydrotrekker/36130M.html

https://www.teva.com/sale/terra-float-churn/1099438.html#start=59&cgid=water-shoes

https://www.moosejaw.com/product/salomon-men-s-tech-amphib-4-shoe_10476086
 
I quit wearing waterproof shoes as most of them prevent water from getting in, but when I do something clumsy like slip in a creek or similar the inside took forever to dry out.

Now I just use Merrill trail gloves and keep a spare pie of socks in the bag. They are lightweight and dry off quickly.
 
Just picked up a pair of these, North 40 musta found a container from the 60's or 70's somewhere and I snaked a "low top" version for wet mornings doing course work before playing a round. Poly bags not included.

Not a chance of out running anything faster than a mosquito in them, but you can wear breathable shoes in them till the dew is gone, and they keep your feet warm actually, probably from all the hard work you have to do to get around in them.

These things work well when your just practicing doing field work or putting, then slip 'em off and play a round. Feel like I'm a kid again walking to the ice skating area after school with my skates slung around my neck back when there were public skating areas and kids were allowed to do such things;)
 

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Just picked up a pair of these, North 40 musta found a container from the 60's or 70's somewhere and I snaked a "low top" version for wet mornings doing course work before playing a round. Poly bags not included.

Not a chance of out running anything faster than a mosquito in them, but you can wear breathable shoes in them till the dew is gone, and they keep your feet warm actually, probably from all the hard work you have to do to get around in them.

These things work well when your just practicing doing field work or putting, then slip 'em off and play a round. Feel like I'm a kid again walking to the ice skating area after school with my skates slung around my neck back when there were public skating areas and kids were allowed to do such things;)
 
It's hard to manage dew, it's a tough condition for even the best of shoes. The Goretex starts leaking before the rest of the shoe gets worn out. This problem is big if you are wearing waterproof shoes all the time, whether or not the waterproofing is needed. I solve this problem by cycling the shoes. It's an upfront investment, but you get the most out of the shoes. Once you find a pair of Goretex hiking or trail-running shoes that you really like, buy a couple extra pairs.

As soon as the first pair starts leaking through the Goretex, they become your main workhorse shoes, for afternoon/evening use, or times when dew is not an issue. If they are good quality shoes to begin with, they'll still keep you dry if you step in a puddle, and they'll still have a long life before the sole or stitching go out.

The goal is to reserve the newer Goretex only for those times when you REALLY need waterproofing, the early morning dew rounds or slushy winter golf. This way the waterproofing will last at least a two or three seasons or maybe longer. Then you cycle them into workhorses (relegating the previous workhorses to lawnmowing shoes).

I used to cycle Merrells, but I've switched to Keens because they have better waterproofing. I use really stable low-top hikers. They're a little heavier than trailrunning shoes, but my ankles are trashed from years of basketball injuries, so I need the stability.
 
During warm months I wear water shoes with no socks. Water shoes are designed to walk thru water while canoeing or kayaking. Your feet will get wet in heavy dew or rain, but feel comfortable regardless, and they dry quickly. Also a bonus with these type of shoes is you can wash them to keep the smell down; most shoes/boots do not take kindly to repeated washings.

https://www.merrell.com/US/en/hydrotrekker/36130M.html

https://www.teva.com/sale/terra-float-churn/1099438.html#start=59&cgid=water-shoes

https://www.moosejaw.com/product/salomon-men-s-tech-amphib-4-shoe_10476086
i like this idea, as water shoes can be very comfortable, but every water shoe i've had the sole has been soft and/or no traction. so either no grip or concrete tees tear 'em up. those merrells look interesting, but i'm not spending 70$ to find out if they have soft soles.
 
The goal is to reserve the newer Goretex only for those times when you REALLY need waterproofing, the early morning dew rounds or slushy winter golf. This way the waterproofing will last at least a two or three seasons or maybe longer. Then you cycle them into workhorses (relegating the previous workhorses to lawnmowing shoes).
.

Having extra pairs of shoes is huge. A good tip for those 2 round 1 day tournaments that most of us play in is to bring 3 pair of shoes/socks. You get there early at 8am or whatever, pop on your workhorse shoes that are leaky, and go out and warm up and get wet and don't worry about it.

Once it's time for reg and player meeting, pop on your best fresh pair of shoes and socks. Get wet during the round, don't worry about it, because you'll have dry shoes and socks for round 2.

And yeah, I keep my Gortex Terrex forever, long after the tread wears down, and they last a long, long time as regular wear around shoes. I don't care if they look worn out, they're extremely broken in and comfortable and they still retain a the original amount of warmth too, even if the Gortex liner is leaky it still works as a thin blanket for your feet.
 
I play a semi wooded course early on Saturday. I wear a pair of all leather over the ankle Wolverines. I use mink oil or glove oil to treat my boots. Reminds me they are due for oiling.

I know they aren't totally snake proof, but better than most options. This course has some steep up and down areas with loose rocks. I like the ankle support in those areas.
 
It's hard to manage dew, it's a tough condition for even the best of shoes. The Goretex starts leaking before the rest of the shoe gets worn out. This problem is big if you are wearing waterproof shoes all the time, whether or not the waterproofing is needed. I solve this problem by cycling the shoes. It's an upfront investment, but you get the most out of the shoes. Once you find a pair of Goretex hiking or trail-running shoes that you really like, buy a couple extra pairs.

As soon as the first pair starts leaking through the Goretex, they become your main workhorse shoes, for afternoon/evening use, or times when dew is not an issue. If they are good quality shoes to begin with, they'll still keep you dry if you step in a puddle, and they'll still have a long life before the sole or stitching go out.

The goal is to reserve the newer Goretex only for those times when you REALLY need waterproofing, the early morning dew rounds or slushy winter golf. This way the waterproofing will last at least a two or three seasons or maybe longer. Then you cycle them into workhorses (relegating the previous workhorses to lawnmowing shoes).

I used to cycle Merrells, but I've switched to Keens because they have better waterproofing. I use really stable low-top hikers. They're a little heavier than trailrunning shoes, but my ankles are trashed from years of basketball injuries, so I need the stability.

This exactly. I used to cycle Merrill's and Salomons...now I'm on to my first pair of Oboz and looooving them. Much more vertical (vs. lateral) support than the Salomon's I've been rocking. Only played a few rounds in them, so the h20proofing jury is still out on the long-term.
 
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