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Can't get Rit+acetone to work

Triflusal

* Ace Member *
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Messages
3,335
I'm trying to make an ink like mixture that I can put into a calligraphy pen, and I've tried powder rit+acetone+water, liquid rit+acetone+water, powder rit+water, liquid rit+water, powder rit+acetone+water+dish soap, etc.

The mixtures just seem to be standing on top of the plastic rather than sinking in (for lack of a better term), I've tried everything, what am I doing wrong?

I'm using star and champion by the way
 
the dye won't immediately sink in - how long are you leaving the dye on the disc?
 
You have to let the dye sit on the disc for min of 10 mins when dye is hot. If your using room temp dye it has to sit for at least 45mins.
 
okay, it was room temp. I was letting it sit for like 10ish cause people said it worked almost instantly
 
imho, the heat method should be used strictly for water+rit. while i agree that heat is essential for water+rit, heating acetone can be super dangerous for numerous reasons and I would not recommend it.

really, the main allure of using acetone at all is to increase penetration(quicker dye) and eliminate the need for heat. however, the inconsistencies and general pita factor of trying to get a consistency that will stick to the disc in the design you desire and not run or bead ultimately led me to abandon it.

there are many better dyers here than myself, however, so YMMV.
 
Yeah, I wouldn't heat acetone, I'm not that dumb.

My main reason for doing this is for freehand dyeing. Anybody with a plotter and some vector software can dye spiderman (or any other unoriginal icon/logo/what have you) on a disc; I want to see if I can bring any sort of originality to the table, and truly make something that someone else can't say "can I have the stencil for that?". I wanna make art, not clip-art
 
alright, I left liquid Rit and acetone mixture on the disc overnight, and still nothing... what is happening? am I not using enough acetone? I'm doing a 2:1 ratio of liquid Rit to acetone
 
Yeah, I wouldn't heat acetone, I'm not that dumb.

My main reason for doing this is for freehand dyeing. Anybody with a plotter and some vector software can dye spiderman (or any other unoriginal icon/logo/what have you) on a disc; I want to see if I can bring any sort of originality to the table, and truly make something that someone else can't say "can I have the stencil for that?". I wanna make art, not clip-art

Why not draw you original art using normal ink on paper, then scan the image onto your computer and cut it from vinyl and use the dipping method? It may be a bit more work but the disc will take the dye for sure that method. I like the attempt at ingenuity but seems like a bigger headache then its worth.

This seems like a win/win method for you.

Or you could also try the shaving cream marbling method to do your own art
 
i use acetone/rit to dye quite a bit, although ive never tried using it in a calligraphy pen. i always paint with it like watercolor, heres what i found and maybe itll help

if you have the acetone saturated with dye (there will be some powder that doesnt dissappear when you stir it) you have a good mix and will get rich colors. if you have it saturated the disc will take color very quickly, reapply for richer colors. it typically takes my 10-15 min. or less to do a disc in this manner, its definitely not an overnite process

it wont apply immediately, one of the things i like about it, youll start with a light shade of the color then itll get darker as you leave it or re apply. i often paint next a water source so i can constantly rinse and reapply till i have the desired effects/ color
- this could make applying it with a pen challenging, although im sure it could produce some cool effects. i wouldnt expect it to work like an ink pen on paper..

black is a pain in the butt. it doesnt like to be applied in this way and produces a purple color

you have a sort of short time frame from applying the dye to when its completely set to apply acetone to lighten it or other colors to create different shadesshades

hope this helps! i can post examples when i get home if youd like, just lemme know
 
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yeah, my black has been all purple. maybe I should just use other colors, like complements to disc colors. or maybe use a brush

Do you ever have it dry out and then when you rinse it no color is there? that has been happening to me. maybe that has to do with the black again

hmm
 
i never let it dry out at all, im al/ost constantly rinsing and reapplying, with the disc still wet. it shouldnt take more than a second ot to for the disc to take some color.

i dont think i specified, i use powder rit, not liquid. with powder rit in excess to the acetone (powder still floating around at the bottom)
 
My wife and I were trying to make a mixture this morning that would work in a nice ballpoint pen. So far no go. I like a mixture of acetone, a small amount of liquid Rit, and mostly powdered Rit. I'm freehanding in a lot of shading and feathery areas on a bird design disc later today. I still vinyl off areas I want protected in case of drips. For today I'm giving up on the pen and going with a toothpick. Just dip it and lightly apply your color. Time consuming and you gotta be careful not to scratch the plastic, but it's as close to a fine tip like a pen as I can get.

I find the acetone method to work especially well on beat in Star plastic.
 
Have you tried the sharpie chisel tip permanent marker (black only) or the sharpie metallic calligraphic markers (gold or silver)?
 
Have you tried the sharpie chisel tip permanent marker (black only) or the sharpie metallic calligraphic markers (gold or silver)?

The metallic sharpies make the disc non pdga approved as it adds a raised surface to the disc. also it does not last for long on the disc
 
I'd try using bigmanbailye's airbrushing mixture:

2 parts liquid rit
1 to 1.5 parts acetone
.5 parts dish soap

thread for reference;
The acetone sinks the dye in, and the dish soap keeps it from evaporating quickly. I'd still be worried about getting a deep black with this method though.

Making a legit piece of art out of a disc greatly reduces the chance of it being thrown anyway, so why bother avoiding the noticeable thickness?
 
I have not tried dying discs at all, but I used to work in composites. I would think the acetone would be used primarily to soften the plastic so that the ink can soak in. Mixing acetone and water will never work, as acetone will always separate and float on the water. Maybe try warming the disc up, wiping it down with a lot of acetone, and then using a dye/water or liquid ink to apply the design. You could possibly try using PVC primer as well. I know it will leave a nice purple color, but the clean acetone should get rid of it afterwards.
All this talk makes me interested in attempting to dye some discs myself. I might give it a try pretty soon.
 
I wonder if any tattoo artists have ever tried taking the needle to a disc. If it were loaded with an acetone/rit mixture, would the hole reseal?
 
I'd try using bigmanbailye's airbrushing mixture:

2 parts liquid rit
1 to 1.5 parts acetone
.5 parts dish soap

thread for reference;
The acetone sinks the dye in, and the dish soap keeps it from evaporating quickly. I'd still be worried about getting a deep black with this method though.

Making a legit piece of art out of a disc greatly reduces the chance of it being thrown anyway, so why bother avoiding the noticeable thickness?

thanks, ill give it a shot. not evaporating is what I need
 
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