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[Question] Flashing and stability

True, but without the bead I'm betting a Comet would be quite understable.

Dave D didn't really say as much as I would have liked, but he definitely inferred that some molds would either be unaffected by a bead, or actually lose some stability. He just didn't outright say it. That discussion is in the "more stable vs. overstable" thread in the landfill. I'd suggest not trying to look it up and just taking my word for it.
 
True, but without the bead I'm betting a Comet would be quite understable.

I'd have to agree with this. Not to speak for anyone else, but can we agree that (all other things being equal)...

1) The presence of a bead generally increases a disc's stability.
2) Discs with beads are not necessarily stable or overstable, but for most molds, they have greater stability than a beadless version of the same mold in the same plastic/weight/insert physical characteristic of your choice here.

...now, maybe I need to read more about PLH.

Check that... I don't really care.
I just need to get out there and play more. :)
 
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^agreed.

Beads don't mean a disc is OS but increases the high speed stability as well as prolongs the intial line of release keeping the disc from fading earlier.
 
The link I posted is very short. It's from an injection molding resource site. It'll take you about a minute to read, and all it says is that parting line is an injection molding term for the spot where the top and bottom mold meet. The bit of plastic has a different term, but always happens at the parting line.
 
Ok, after thinking on it a night, I don't think it's impossible to have the parting line in a different place than the "leading edge" (that's what I'm going to call where the air separates). BUT it would be silly to have the 2 in a different spot, because the leading edge is going to be the widest part of the disc. Thus, you'd want the parting line to be at the leading edge so discs would come out of the mold as easy as possible.

Nice post! This is what I was trying to get at yesterday but didn't know how to word it.
 
I didn't read the whole thread but in my experience removing the flashing does make the disc more understable. I agree with the OP that it's more pronounced on higher speed/larger rimmed drivers. I also agree that if a person is throwing high speed drivers & not getting the discs up to speed then they will experience very little to no difference after the flashing is removed. I'll also add that removing flashing on slower/smaller rimmed discs does make discs more understable but it isn't nearly as pronounced as it is on distance drivers. I don't know the science behind it all but I know this to be true by my experiences.
 
I didn't read the whole thread but in my experience removing the flashing does make the disc more understable. I agree with the OP that it's more pronounced on higher speed/larger rimmed drivers. I also agree that if a person is throwing high speed drivers & not getting the discs up to speed then they will experience very little to no difference after the flashing is removed. I'll also add that removing flashing on slower/smaller rimmed discs does make discs more understable but it isn't nearly as pronounced as it is on distance drivers. I don't know the science behind it all but I know this to be true by my experiences.

I don't necessarily agree with this. I think it's related to arm and disc speed. I admittedly have a noodle at this point, and I could definitely see a difference between my 400S PA2 before and after some grind time in the parking lot. It stayed straight a lot longer before fading after the flashing was removed, so much so that I had to learn to range it all over again. However I did not see nearly as much of a difference in the before and after on the F3 I had. I did notice a little bit of turn when I got a good throw with it (serious nose up issues I could never fix) but not a lot.
 
I don't necessarily agree with this. I think it's related to arm and disc speed. I admittedly have a noodle at this point, and I could definitely see a difference between my 400S PA2 before and after some grind time in the parking lot. It stayed straight a lot longer before fading after the flashing was removed, so much so that I had to learn to range it all over again. However I did not see nearly as much of a difference in the before and after on the F3 I had. I did notice a little bit of turn when I got a good throw with it (serious nose up issues I could never fix) but not a lot.

I think it's related to arm & disc speed also. So you think that Putters/Mids are more effected by removing flashing than drivers? I agree putters & Mids do fly different after the flashing is removed but I see a more significant difference in my Destroyers than I ever have with my BB Aviars....maybe it's just me.
 
So is flashing on the outside rim where what I've seen in pictures as the plh line? Or is it on the underside of the wing by where your fingertips go?
 
So is flashing on the outside rim where what I've seen in pictures as the plh line? Or is it on the underside of the wing by where your fingertips go?

Both, but I've only seen changes when removing the flash from the underside of the rim/wing/whatever.
 
I've yet to get a new disc with what I thought was enough flashing to bother removing. If I saw any appreciable amount, I don't think I'd buy it. While I have seen minor amounts, I've just left the small amount there to wear off in the course of normal play.

As a result, I have no practical knowledge of how removing the flashing affects a disc. :|
 
A lot of Lat64 stuff has flashing, more than normal I've noticed.
Could be, but I recently got a DD misprint pack, and like I said - not enough that I ever considered removing it.

Maybe I just don't shiv a git... prolly 'cause the things holding my game back have a lot more to do with my personal inconsistencies than with inconsistencies in my discs. :\
 
when they had as many molds as vibram/MVP etc their stuff was much better as far as QC goes but still have a few buttery ones come out just not like they used to be and it goes away quick plus only some molds really are impacted like strikers, havocs, bolts etc nothing really OS.
 
I've yet to get a new disc with what I thought was enough flashing to bother removing. If I saw any appreciable amount, I don't think I'd buy it. While I have seen minor amounts, I've just left the small amount there to wear off in the course of normal play.

As a result, I have no practical knowledge of how removing the flashing affects a disc. :|

I have had some Champion drivers with enough flash to make throwing them uncomfortable. Discs in some premuim plastics designed to be understable don't really get there until this is gone. Of course, your fingers will eventually do this if you don't throw from the exact same spot on the discs. I've bought used discs with flash gone from only a small portion of the wing.
 
Westside Tursas is the worst disc for flashing I've seen yet, razor sharp bout 1/16" and on all 3 that I bought. When removed it makes a big difference even on short 70ft+ flights, more understable and exactly what I want.
 
But guys, Jay Dub said that flashing doesn't affect stability and he has been working in engineering and playing disc golf for like 35 years, is he right and we are all wrong?? ;)
 
Westside Tursas is the worst disc for flashing I've seen yet, razor sharp bout 1/16" and on all 3 that I bought. When removed it makes a big difference even on short 70ft+ flights, more understable and exactly what I want.

Yeah, my Tursases were the same way. Very noticeable difference in flight once removed. I've noticed something similar on warships as well.
 
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