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Hammer pound drill

sacred

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Aug 7, 2014
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The hammer pound drill seems to be mentioned quite often when it comes to learning the correct technique. However all the links for the drill guide are broken, anyone happen to have a working link for the explanation of the drill?
 
Send me a PM with your email. I have them downloaded to my computer
 
The "Incomplete" Secret Technique
by Blake_T » Sat Aug 14, 2010 5:36 am


step 1, download the videos of the drills. you will need to unzip the files and have a divx codec. if you can't do that, ask someone other than me for help.
https://www.dgcoursereview.com/dgr/video/drills.zip

Spyderpride has been kind enough to upload the videos to youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/user/spyderpride

step 2, read each text here BEFORE watching the video. read it, watch the video, read it again, watch the video, do it. watch the video as needed.

step 3, if you have a question, make sure you did what step 2 entailed. i won't answer any questions about it if i feel like you skipped this part.

*IMPORTANT NOTE* For drills involving the "fake grip" I highly suggest taping up the first segment of your index finger with duct tape or athletic tape or wearing a batting glove or something similar. Unless you are a mechanic or carpenter or something of that nature, this may rip up your finger if you don't have a sufficient callous.

*IMPORTANT NOTE #2* Do not try to STRONG ARM these drills. They are meant to be performed in a fairly relaxed fashion with an emphasis on fluidity and timing more than brute force. When done properly your body should be fine as long as you don't over-do it (e.g. it would be unwise to do 200 hammer pounds in a row). If you try to over-muscle any of these you are risking the chance of injury.

*IMPORTANT NOTE #3* It's wise to stay away from glass when you are performing these drills.

*IMPORTANT NOTE #4* These all assume you are right handed. If you're a lefty, shift the references to fit you.

Part 1: The Fake Grip and Pounding the Hammer


The fake grip is shown above. It's basically the opposite of a thumber grip. No fingers should be on the rim.

Drill 1: Start with the disc on a vertical plane in front of your right shoulder while using the fake grip. Your wrist should begin in the open position (bent backwards). In a relaxed manner, drop your arm and snap your wrist at the end like you are trying to pound in a nail at your waist. The key here is to GLIDE in and feel the natural weight shift of the disc. Once your forearm stops falling the disc will continue due to gravity and inertia. When you feel the disc trying to "fall" under its own power, grip down and snap your wrist to the closed position (bent forwards).

If you time this incorrectly, the disc will pretty much slip out of your hand. That is a sign you are muscling it and/or fighting against the natural weight shift of the disc.

Pay specific attention and notice how fast the disc whips around when you time the pounding of the hammer correctly. Focus on the feeling of pounding the hammer. If you feel some recoil at the bottom sort of like when you hit a nail and have the hammer head bounce back up, that is a good thing.

WATCH VIDEO: fakegrip1.divx

Drill 2: Still using the fake grip, shift the disc to a (somewhat) flat horizontal plane. Start with the disc just beyond the right side of your body. The wrist should be open (bent backwards). Repeat drill 1 but like you are pounding a nail just beyond the left side of your body. Glide in, feel the weight shift of the disc and snap your wrist at the end. Focus on the feeling of pounding the hammer.

If you time this incorrectly, the disc will pretty much slip out of your hand. That is a sign you are muscling it and/or fighting against the natural weight shift of the disc.

If you feel some recoil at the bottom sort of like when you hit a nail and have the hammer head bounce back up, that is a good thing.

WATCH VIDEO: fakegrip2.divx

Part 2: Converting the Hammer Pound for Sidearm and Overhand Throws

Drill 3: Adjust your grip to a 1 or 2 finger sidearm grip (I recommend 2). Feel this one out, don't just fall back on a grip that someone taught you or you read about at some point in time. Repeat Drill 1 with the new grip. The grip should seem SIGNIFICANTLY stronger than the fake grip. If it's awkward, keep adjusting your grip until you have one that really "hooks" the rim well and strengthens the hammer pound.

This second time through the drill you should be fully adept at feeling the weight shift of the disc. Start relaxed with an open wrist. Glide down and pound. By now the disc should be whipping around at the end nearly twice as fast as with the fake grip. The recoil bounce back should be noticeable and you should be able to build a rhythm, doing 3+ consecutive hammer pounds with only a minor pause in between.

At this point it's easy to cheat and use your fingers to pull the disc rather than having it drop naturally through inertia and gravity. If you aren't getting a quick "whoosh" sound as the disc whips around, I'd recommend switching back to the fake grip and building a feel for the timing.

The quick snap around of the disc at the bottom should feel VERY strong even though your arm is basically relaxed.

WATCH VIDEO: hammer1.divx

For overhand throwing the same concepts apply and you can find some variation on drills 1 and 3 to accommodate different throwing trajectories. e.g. pounding a nail that is above your head and pointing 45 degrees upwards and towards you, pounding a nail in front of your face, etc.


continued below...
 
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Drill 4: Using the same grip you found in Drill 3, repeat drill 2 by shifting the new grip to the horizontal plane. Pound the hammer sidearm from the right edge of your body to the left edge. Focus on the same points of Drill 3.

At this point you have a usable sidearm technique that should yield controlled 250'+ shots with little, if any OAT. Basically, you probably won't need super overstable discs for sidearm unless you are going for a strong right fade and your understable drivers will likely s-curve.

Additional tips:
-Reach back on the same plane you plan to throw on. Many people have the impulse to reach back behind their right ear. This will breed OAT and mistiming. You may work towards it in the future but for the time being, focus on reaching on the same plane that you intend to throw on. Usually, this is just like the starting point of the sidearm hammer pound but reaching slightly farther.

-If you are trying to throw flat or hyzer, keep your right shoulder noticeably lower than your left shoulder. This does not apply for anhyzers.

-Getting the nose down is a factor of letting your wrist close all the way through the snap, getting your weight over your left foot, and letting your right shoulder continue its forward follow-through.

-FOCUS ON THE POUND AT THE END MORE THAN ANYTHING ELSE.

WATCH VIDEO: hammer2.divx

Part 3: The Backhand In-Motion, Pound the Backhand Hammer

Drill 5: Repeat the sidearm hammer 2-3 times until you really feel it. Upon completing it change to a backhand grip. Starting with the disc in front of your stomach and your wrist slightly curled around the disc. Your elbow should be out from your body and not tight to your body. Pound the hammer backhand like you are smashing a nail that is out beyond the right side of your body. Relax, glide in, feel the weight shift of the disc and pound it at the end. Focus on snapping your forearm out there and letting the wrist go through its full motion.

Your wrist should be opening all the way and there should be a noticeable recoil bounce back.

Repeat this several times until you have a feel.

WATCH VIDEO: hammer3.divx

This form is self-correcting. If you swing wide, you can't pound the hammer. If you swing with rushed shoulders, you can't pound the hammer. If you are tense and rigid, you can't pound the hammer.

You'll probably find that you don't need to use any torso, shoulders, or legs to get a strong hammer pound. When you hit the field try throwing while focusing on the hammer pound and no extra body motion. You should find you are getting fast, straight throws (hardly any turn/fade) and all of this without a run up, huge reach back, etc.

To build power you can slowly integrate in longer motions. Work from the hit back and only add things if the feel and timing makes the hammer pound STRONGER. If it doesn't contribute to the hammer pound, get rid of it or change it until it does make things stronger.

Drill 6: Shift things to a vertical plane if you are having trouble feeling it. Basically, curl your right arm up like you are flexing your bicep. Your hand should be slightly over the disc. Drop the hammer backhand but similar in feel to Drills #1 and #3. This is an excellent "pre-throw" feel builder. It puts gravity on your side and assists in feeling the natural weight shift of the disc.

This is also why it will be easier to pound the hammer on anhyzer throws than on flat or hyzer throws.

WATCH VIDEO: hammer4.divx

Part 4: Incomplete... this is where I'm stuck.

Part 3 taught you how to half hit it. Players who hit it half-way will usually plateau in the 425-440' range (although many will find themselves closer to 380-400'). Hitting it fully is the big jump that leads to 475'+ throws. I'm still working on the drill that teaches this feel. Basically, the drill that teaches how to pivot and sling the disc as easy as the other drills.

Part 5: Learning to Aim

To learn to aim, repeat drill 5 and focus on the "end point" of the motion (pre-recoil). When you have an idea of where that is, return your arm, wrist, and disc into that position after a good pound. The elbow will NOT be fully straightened. It will be straighter but there will still be some bend. If your elbow is fully straightening your timing is off and you are likely to hyper extend your elbow. Your wrist will be bent back quite far and your thumb will likely be pointing in the same direction that your right shoulder is. This is where the disc will go. To hit that line, focus on pounding the hammer and reaching that position. The disc should launch from that point.

You will also have to have weight forward or you will be prone to grip-locking.

Part 6: The Hammer Head

You don't really need to know this to perform the drills but this might help the visualization process.

The Sidearm and Overhand hammer head position is pretty easy. It's on the opposite edge of the disc from your grip.



The hammer head is the red.

The Backhand hammer head is a bit more conceptual. It's in front of the opposite edge of the disc. It's easy to feel where the weight is but if you are trying to visualize it, it's actually out in free space.



It might help with the feel to initiate the hammer pounds by pulling the bottom of the "handle" towards the "nail" at the very beginning of the swing.


continued below...
 
Part 4 Faliure #1: The Yo-yo

The first failed attempt at Part 4 is called the yo-yo. This involves a drill similar to Drill #6 but with a modified grip. To find a grip for this drill, hook your index finger onto the rim of the disc and pinch on top with your thumb. If you hold the disc vertically it should resemble the "holding a stinky diaper as far away as possible" stereotype. You should be able to swing the disc like a pendulum side to side on a vertical plane with your finger hooked at the top.

The next step is a repeat of Drill #6 but instead of pounding the hammer, feel it similarly to slinging a yo-yo. Grip loosely with the middle, ring, and pinky fingers but keep a good hook with your index and pinch with your thumb. Pay special attention to the disc rolling forward slightly in your palm (it's ~1") and then "jumping" off your palm as the wrist bends way backwards. The disc should pivot out of your hand and swing around at the bottom, hitting the flesh web between your index finger and thumb.

WATCH VIDEO: yoyo.divx

Why this is useful in the slightest even though it's a failure

This is basically the feeling of throwing a backhand roller and it also teaches the feeling of palm ejection, which is a large part of both throwing with snap and putting.

Part 4 Faliure #2: The Flip-Back

The second failed attempt at Part 4 I termed the flip-back. Do a sidearm hammer pound (drill #4) but pay attention to the finishing point like in Part 5. If your grip is well-suited to the hammer pound you should notice that your wrist is closed almost all the way and that your finger-tips are naturally pulling into your palm. At this end point something should be interesting: it basically looks like the backhand hammer pound starting grip position.

Shift now to a 2-finger backhand grip. Pound the hammer and focus on snapping it at the end. With only a 2-finger grip the disc should pivot through the hand and stop at the sidearm hammer pound starting grip position.

Basically, you should be able to flip back and forth between a 2-finger backhand grip and a 2-finger sidearm grip.

WATCH VIDEO: flipback.divx

Why this is useful in the slightest even though it's a failure

The backhand to sidearm grip flip teaches the feel for the disc pivot in the hand that initiates the sling. Why this drill fails is that it doesn't teach the timing of the motions. You can have poor timing and still get a pivot. A firm, quick, explosive pivot happens when there's only a slight "nudge" initiating it. That nudge is the pre-cursor to the final sling in a full hit backhand throw (although their motions are nearly simultaneous, it's really a very fast sequence).

Both myself and Dan have had a few students who had success in this way, mostly with players who were throwing 360-380' and pushing them to 430-450' when they had this feel down.

Part 4 Faliure #3: The Lever

Grip the disc like you are holding a steering wheel with 1 hand, leaned back, and trying to look cool while cruising. Your hand should be at 12 o'clock with the majority of your palm on top of the disc. Your fingers will be curled under and onto the rim wall, intersecting the rim at ~90 degrees. The disc should be pretty much perpendicular to the forearm and seam of the hand. This isn't a drill meant for throwing, just for establishing a feel.

Lean forward slightly and dangle your arm in front of you with your arm straight until you are holding the disc at about mid-thigh height (it will vary based upon your arm length). The disc should be between your hand and your body. Slowly rock your right shoulder back and forth letting your arm and the disc pendulum back and forth in a completely relaxed manner. Gradually increase the distance the pendulum travels to the right side. As you pass beyond the right side of your body and get a ways away, you should notice that your hand naturally rotates from being on the far edge of the disc (opposite from your body) to the right edge of the disc. As you build this feel start to use a quicker shoulder motion to the right and pull around the disc so that your hand turns around the disc to the near edge of the disc. Push with your thumb as you pull through the turn.

You should feel the edge of the disc opposite your grip being "levered" out and around. Do this a few times to build the feel.

WATCH VIDEO: lever.divx

This drill just didn't integrate well with the hammer pound.

Why this is useful in the slightest even though it's a failure

This teaches the feel of leverage that is the focus of Swedish technique. You would never throw with this grip but it really gives a feel for how they can crank the disc around so hard even though many of them throw with very little elbow bend.

If you can find a way to combine the lever with the hammer pound you are on the right track.

In Closing

This is a work in progress but I wanted to get it out there before the warm weather and daylight goes away. I know there was a lot of build-up behind this as I was trying to get some testers for it. I hope what it is so far isn't as big of a letdown as the Segway

Basically, this is an easy method to a 250'+ OAT-free sidearm and an easy ticket to 350'+ backhand with natural flaw correction. My goal was to get an easy ticket to 480' but that just hasn't happened yet and I'm pretty disappointed in myself for not finding it yet. Hopefully I'll come to something soon or someone else will be able to build upon what I've written so far.

A lot of these ideas are heavily influenced and built off of ideas by talks I've had with Brad Walker and Dan Beto, so I want to give them credit for this as well. - blake t.
https://www.dgcoursereview.com/dgr/
 
Thank you for reposting that info, Mocheez.
 
I have been doing a variation of the drill for about a year now (found this article shortly after starting) and it will definitely strengthen your grip.

I grab the disc like a thumber pinch and do 10 reps of downward hammers, then flip the disc over, similar pinch with my big knuckle of my index finger as the hook on the rim and squeeze.

Don't do it with a disc that has sharp flashing. I don't use tape.

I think of it as teaching my hand what rotating out of my knuckle and thump should feel like in a hit... the pinching of the rim. I do it all the time at work.

 
Thank you all for the links!

Just one small clarification. I can't seem to figure where is the proper fake grip shown?
 
I tried the forehand hammer pound drills last night for the first time. Should the disc be pivoting in my hand at the end of the pound? It's not coming out (most of the time), but I am getting quite a bit of movement. Thanks.

Keith
 
I tried the forehand hammer pound drills last night for the first time. Should the disc be pivoting in my hand at the end of the pound? It's not coming out (most of the time), but I am getting quite a bit of movement. Thanks.

Keith
Yes it should pivot. The important part is feeling the weight of the disc as it pivots and figuring out how to "push" that weight so it pivots harder. Perhaps you're already doing this, but make sure you do all of the drills in order. The idea is to just get the feel in each drill. You don't need to repeat them over and over. Wait for that until you get to the drills where you're throwing. If you feel it right away you can get to throwing in just a few minutes.
 
Thanks for the info garublador! I plan to do all the drills in order, but I didn't want to get too far doing them wrong.

Keith
 

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