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Help with wind rounds.

Here's a decent overview of dealing with wind. This article assumes a right hand backhand throw.

Blake Takkunen said:
Overview

*Disclaimer*: I am trying to avoid in depth discussion of physics and aerodynamics here and trying to explain this in a simplified manner. I apologize in advance to those in the fields of physics and aerodynamics if my explanations are not quite perfect.

A lot of players struggle while playing with the wind. A common solution for many players is to throw fast, low profile, overstable discs and attempt to carve through the effects of wind on disc flight. However, this limits shot options and rarely takes advantage of the potential benefits you can gain from the aid of the wind nor avoids many of the negative wind effects that can happen. The key is to analyze and understand what the wind will do to the disc when it hits it from varying angles. With this knowledge and some practice/experimentation you can learn to throw shots that will ride the wind rather than battle it.

Before I get too in depth I will give some abbreviations for wind direction that will hopefully make this more readable. All directions will assume a RHBH throw. For RHFH or LHBH reverse the directions of the fade and turn.

HW = Headwind
TW = Tailwind
R-L = Right to Left Wind
L-R = Left to Right Wind
R-L/HW = Diagonal Headwind that is Blowing from Right to Left

I. Headwinds

If the wind hits the top of the disc at its nose (leading edge), it will press the nose downwards. This will reduce lift and cause the disc to fly more understable. Some situations where this occurs are: throwing straight into a HW, turning a disc over into a R-L or R-L/HW, and fading a disc into a L-R or L-R/HW.

If the wind [hits the]bottom of the disc at its nose, it will lift the nose upwards. The result will be increased lift and the disc will fly more overstable. Some situations where this occurs are: throwing nose up into a HW, pushing an anhyzer left into a L-R or L-R/HW, and pulling a hyzer to the right into a R-L or R-L/HW.

II. Tailwinds

If the wind hits the bottom of the disc at its tail (trailing edge), behavior is a bit more complicated. One major factor is that tail wind affects the air pocket below the disc causing the disc to drop and fly more overstable (if the disc is not turned over). However, if caught correctly, a wind that hits the bottom of the disc on its tail can also lift the tail (which subsequently lowers the nose) and push the disc like a sail and help the disc maintain a higher speed for a longer period of time. Catching the wind in this manner will prolong the disc's fade if it has been turned or exaggerate a disc's fade if caught during the end of the flight. Some situations where this occurs are: throwing a nose down shot with a TW, turning a disc over with a L-R or L-R/TW, and fading a disc with a R-L or R-L/TW.

If the wind hits the top of the disc at its tail, various things will occur. A tail wind with a nose up throw will affect the air pocket below the disc and cause it to drop faster. The wind will also press the tail down and raise the nose, decelerating the disc faster. Lastly, the "sail" behavior will delay the fade characteristics of the disc but also accelerate the disc if it skips. Sine situations where this occurs are: throwing a nose up shot with a TW, pushing an anhyzer to the left with a R-L or R-L/TW, and pulling a hyzer to the right with a L-R or L-R/TW.

III. Applying Wind to Disc Flight

With those bases covered, it is easier to develop some better ideas for shot and disc selection during windy days. The answers are in the adjustments in height/trajectory, hyzer/anhyzer angles, and disc stability to counter the negative effects of wind and work with the positives.

Some examples:
1) Turning a disc over with a R-L/TW so that you can catch the wind during the flex for an extra forward push.
2) Throwing anhyzer and higher with a L-R/TW so that you catch the wind early and ride it for a longer flight.
3) Throwing hyzer straight outwards and with a little extra height into a HW and letting the wind help flatten the disc. The extra height is to give the disc enough time to fade back if it does get turned over.
4) Throwing higher with anhyzer (or an understable disc) when throwing with a TW.
5) Compensate for the wind push on a hyzer shot during the fade with a R-L by aiming further to the right and/or throwing a disc that fades less.
 
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If you want to start with one thing that will help with the headwinds, just focus on not trying to throw S shots. These kill your game in headwinds, if you don't have all the science down. Wind discing is more mental than regular discing. Keep your head in the game and think every shot through, rather than walking up and doing what you normally do, and it will help too.
 
In disc golf (and ESPECIALLY IN CASE OF HIGH WIND), the short game is the most important part.
Work on your upshots, which is something that doesn't depend on your distance game. Take an overstable putter/mid (Rhyno, Zone, Drone, P3, whatever your favorite brand is...) and work on it.
If you can scramble good and avoid 3 putts, you'll definitely win some strokes on the field. And don't hesitate to lay up by throwing the disc upside down.

For drives, just avoid discs that are too understable. And keep it low !!!

And if you play some PDGA events, windy rounds can get you really high rated rounds.
 
What are you throwing now that's getting beat up by the wind? The advice people have given about nose angle will help a lot, Disc selection helps, too. With 300 feet of power and an affinity for Discraft the Undertaker is what you're looking for. Speed 9 overstable fairway/control driver.

Predator is a good disc for your situation, too, but I recommend holding one first before buying if you can. Some players dislike the feel of the predator. Rim has a noticeable lip on it.

I personally love the Machete. It'll hold up in he wind, but the more stable ones will fall towards Nuke OS territory but slower: laughably overstable.

Keep that disc flat and keep practicing! Learning to play in he wind will help your game develop!

I throw a crank and a o lace for my overstable drivers
 
This thread is making me want a zone.

I still haven't seen any turn out of my Zone, it can handle any wind my Firebird can. Backhand at least, I haven't thrown it full power FH into 20MPH wind but I bet it wouldn't go nuts. Keep in mind it's a slower shape so it will get cut short on distance into a headwind a good % compared to a faster disc like a Firebird.
 
Throwing into thirty mph winds or higher with mids or putters no matter how overstable becomes useless as they always turn over I have found. I came across a very overstable Enforcer and use it from tee to bullseye in extreme headwinds with some success. Finding a disc that is predictable in extreme headwinds is a great thing. Ripping one straight down the middle of the fairway into 30+ mph winds can be as satisfying as any shot in the game.

Best of luck in your wind adventures.
 
Ya, a lot of weird and funny, at least to me, shots happen when you start getting into the 20 to 30 mph range. You see putts that end up behind the putter, throws that turn into rollers that get pushed an extra couple hundred feet sideways, air bounces that make the disc look it's being slapped around by an invisible giant. If you don't have a sense of humor, it can be terrible but I get enjoyment watching crazy shots and especially throwers reactions. People who expect shooting well on days like this are in for a bad day.
 
In the wind increase the rpm's of the disc (any disc you're throwing) especially the upshots. This takes a little practice but the help is the spin keeps the disc aligned at the release angle longer decreasing the effect of the wind. (As others have said and what should be obvious in your first round in heavy winds, the underside of the disc should never be exposed to the wind unless there's nothing downwind that's a problem -- if downwind's the direction you want and there's no danger -- throw it high with spin/angle and go find it.)

As much as possible, as you get close make the disc land on the upwind side of the basket so you can approach/putt downwind. Downwind flat putts/approaches get knocked down usually putting you close enough to have a drop-in. In other words, lay-ups downwind are easy, up/cross wind there's WAY more room for error. Most of us that play a lot in the wind have had 15' headwind putts pass back over our heads when we get a little ballzy and try to save that stroke .. . . always funny, never fun for the score!!
 
Ya, a lot of weird and funny, at least to me, shots happen when you start getting into the 20 to 30 mph range. You see putts that end up behind the putter, throws that turn into rollers that get pushed an extra couple hundred feet sideways, air bounces that make the disc look it's being slapped around by an invisible giant. If you don't have a sense of humor, it can be terrible but I get enjoyment watching crazy shots and especially throwers reactions. People who expect shooting well on days like this are in for a bad day.

I think that's really the key to playing in the wind. Do your best to learn how to work with it and use the wind to your advantage, but definitely learn to laugh in amazement at all the crazy things the wind can do.

I was throwing on an extremely steep 200' downhill hole with a head wind. I threw a Rhyno straight towards the basket with barely 20' of power. It glided straight for a ways, then started lifting and ended up about 200' past the basket. In retrospect, that was definitely not the best shot. But that's the point. Laugh at the bad shots and learn how to do it better next time.
 
remember watching barry Schultz during the brent hambrick circa late 90's.

finals, and it was windy with wind coming off the dam/lake. he basically threw laser line approaches that were knee high. beat climo to take home first place.

I learned that if it is windy and you want to score well, ya got keep it low real low.
 
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