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Marbling agents

Exactly, if you used black instead of blue the color would be unaffected and no remask would be needed, just pull off the rest of the mask and redip in red.
 
Sounds like I need a light table and just to clarify. The Red SC mix will still afftect the blue color of a dip dye?
 
First try with the shaving cream on a clear MVP Vector. Left it in over night for about 12 hours. Pretty happy with the result.
kvY0Il.jpg
 
Is thee a particular type of shaving cream (or ingreedient) to use (or avoid) when painting or marbeling? For instance, to break in a baseball glove, you rub with shaving cream, but it needs aloe.
 
Is thee a particular type of shaving cream (or ingreedient) to use (or avoid) when painting or marbeling? For instance, to break in a baseball glove, you rub with shaving cream, but it needs aloe.

I don't think so. I have used the expensive stuff and the ultra cheap stuff, with no discernible difference. That being said, I won't rule out that some brand or another will work less well.
 
^ thanks. Will hit up the dollar store....
 
barbasolsDSC_0089.jpg


The red label works just as well. Both will give your disc a manly scent that the ladies find irresistible!
 
this is an awesome thread. I can't wait to try this...

It is fun. Just don't give in and take it out to fast. It's hard but don't do it. Let it sit and when in doubt let it sit a few more hours.
 
So along the lines of time and marbeling... I am going to be using the SC painting technique to do the primary dye (black using iDye poly) of script text. I want to come back and marble red and black to provide depth on a white disc. Should I expect the black swirl pattern on the SC bed to dye lighter (hoping for a grey and red look) or do I need to get gray dye (or dilute down my black)?
 
I don't know about iDye, but with RIT if you dilute the black you'll end up with a purplish or reddish hue, not grey. If you don't have a test disc to play with, maybe you could do some time tests with the script painting...that would be easy since you can just repaint for deeper color. I'd probably do separate sc dyes for the red and black....may want the red to sit longer.
 
So along the lines of time and marbeling... I am going to be using the SC painting technique to do the primary dye (black using iDye poly) of script text. I want to come back and marble red and black to provide depth on a white disc. Should I expect the black swirl pattern on the SC bed to dye lighter (hoping for a grey and red look) or do I need to get gray dye (or dilute down my black)?

If you want a grey color, I would probably use grey. Here is black and aquamarine marbling on a clear vector. Red is strong and can over power other colors if you aren't careful.

IMG_4958-1.jpg
 
I don't know about iDye, but with RIT if you dilute the black you'll end up with a purplish or reddish hue, not grey. If you don't have a test disc to play with, maybe you could do some time tests with the script painting...that would be easy since you can just repaint for deeper color. I'd probably do separate sc dyes for the red and black....may want the red to sit longer.

Thanks - don't really have a test disc (just getting started - still amassing my dying supplies. I have 2 vinyls cut, just kind of busy with "life" and need to round up some glass jars to store extra dye. I may try out on the back of the disc. That's a good idea to try some time tests with the painting and see how the shorter timed black dyes look. I will have to get a notepad to document.

If you want a grey color, I would probably use grey. Here is black and aquamarine marbling on a clear vector. Red is strong and can over power other colors if you aren't careful.

Thanks for the head's-up, I want the red to be subtle. I was thinking doing both together - BUT, maybe not, and maybe I practice on the backside of the disc first.....

Awesome dye!
 
Thanks - don't really have a test disc (just getting started - still amassing my dying supplies. I have 2 vinyls cut, just kind of busy with "life" and need to round up some glass jars to store extra dye. I may try out on the back of the disc. That's a good idea to try some time tests with the painting and see how the shorter timed black dyes look. I will have to get a notepad to document.


Thanks for the head's-up, I want the red to be subtle. I was thinking doing both together - BUT, maybe not, and maybe I practice on the backside of the disc first.....

Awesome dye!

You don't really need glass to store dye in. Anything that will close tight and not leak if you knock it over is good. I just use 2 leter pop bottles.
 
I don't know about iDye, but with RIT if you dilute the black you'll end up with a purplish or reddish hue, not grey. If you don't have a test disc to play with, maybe you could do some time tests with the script painting...that would be easy since you can just repaint for deeper color. I'd probably do separate sc dyes for the red and black....may want the red to sit longer.

Jaquards iDye Poly seems to be more green in it, if its weak. Did get some decent gray with a fresh batch though on a silver disc. But it was relatively dark grey - if left in shorter it MIGHT be more greenish in hue.
 
You don't really need glass to store dye in. Anything that will close tight and not leak if you knock it over is good. I just use 2 leter pop bottles.

Good idea. Got a few that are almost empty. Maybe first attempts this weekend!
 
You don't really need glass to store dye in. Anything that will close tight and not leak if you knock it over is good. I just use 2 leter pop bottles.

I use leftover bottles from "Simply Orange" and "Simply Apple." They are the perfect size for my mixtures, and you can use the top of a 2ltr. bottle as a funnel for them. I also highly recommend said juices.
 
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