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meat hook or spike hyzer?

gianetics

Birdie Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
438
i dont know if these terms apply to what i need help with or not. Scenario:
100 straight line feet to basket with something in the way(big tree). so i need to go way out to the right. everytime i do this i either end up short and left of the pin or i get too much snap and end up deep right. i drive fh but approach bh.
how do i get i disc to fade hard in a short distance. i have experimented with angles and power and just cant get it right.
 
Make sure you're not following through straight across your chest like a regular throw. You want to exaggerate a little and come from a lower point to your normal release (or higher). Try focusing on keeping your elbow above your wrist.

And start with putters. It'll be easier to make sure you don't overspin the throw (it wont hide bad form like a more stable driver might)

And...I'd stay away from stable ^ like mentioned above. You can spike hyzer a putter, understable mid, or understable driver. Its all about the motion
 
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correct disc+correct release angle+correct amount of snap. generally you want to throw the most controllable, slowest disc that you can get out there. for a shot that short, i would throw an overstable mid (gator), unless i had to go WAAAY outside. then maybe a firebird or a flick. something that you can put out 45* right of target and know will come back in.
 
Is a roller possible?

They can turn some tight corners.

Otherwise, under throw a stable driver, but make sure to include some skip.
 
btw if youre throwing rhfh and are going right of target, you dont want fade. fade would be the disc losing steam and falling off to the right.
 
spike hyzer = no 'fade' *confused* ?
You shouldn't see an actually point where it fades, because it should be on an consistent arc the whole time...shouldn't it?

i dont think its a 100' hole. i think hes talking about playing an upshot that parked behind a tree
 
Nothing is putting this shot in the basket other than luck. But if you are truly going for it you want to use the slowest disc you can on a spike hyzer line. If you're stupid lucky it'll cut in at just the right moment and hit basket and bottom out.

\/\/
 
The term 'spike hyzer' is used incorrectly most of the time.

A spike hyzer is a disc thrown with so much hyzer that is basically goes straight up and down, flying more like a projectile than a gliding disc. True spike hyzers should have very very little right to left play in their flight.
 
The term 'spike hyzer' is used incorrectly most of the time.

A spike hyzer is a disc thrown with so much hyzer that is basically goes straight up and down, flying more like a projectile than a gliding disc. True spike hyzers should have very very little right to left play in their flight.

Valid point.

The OP appears to need a steeper hyzer shot, one that can be thrown well right, but will come back with a large fade. Not seeing a picture of the hole makes it harder, but I've done shots like this with a newish Roc. At 100ft, the mere powering down of the disc will produce larger fade. If it is thrown higher at a hyzer angle, it will be given the room to work.

Alot depends on where that tree really is...halfway between or right in front of the basket. Halfway could be done with any stable mid, but if it's right in front, an overstable disc would yield the delayed, yet sharp fade.

It still comes down to power, snap, and release angles and knowing your discs. Be sure to maintain arm plane, too, as changing will cause OAT and contribute to loosing it right.
 
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Yeah big spike hyzer an throw it like a noob. Disc depends on how much fade you want, I throw a destroyer half power to get it high and turn or a
flat roc if I want I little more glide and less drastic fade.

Approach bh drive fh I think he said above
 
You could also throw an OH tommy, a BH scoober or an OH tommy/scoober for this shot depending on what you need.
 
i want a lot of fade. i am trying to go around a tree that is ten feet in front of me. i need to go out about 50 the fade back fifty feet. i try the pig usually and it just runs out of juice. mabey i should throw it higher with more snap. i just cant get a lot of fade with low power throws. i try some throws today and see what happens.
 
Depending on how much room you have, you could also opt for a high nose up hyzer that comes back and left around said tree. The nose up should give it a little more glide left compared to a spike hyzer - if the wind conditions are optimal.

Most likely I'd just spike something over the tree, or hyzer a roc around it for a little more glide left. The nose up hyzer is better when you can throw a straighter shot, and angle the nose up to control distance and gain fade.
 
Less snap/spin and nose up will get you more fade. Rolling your wrist under at the hit will also help get more fade.

Or try a FH anny.
 
i dont know if these terms apply to what i need help with or not. Scenario:
100 straight line feet to basket with something in the way(big tree). so i need to go way out to the right. everytime i do this i either end up short and left of the pin or i get too much snap and end up deep right. i drive fh but approach bh.
how do i get i disc to fade hard in a short distance. i have experimented with angles and power and just cant get it right.

Reach with your right hand as if you're untying your left shoe when you are reaching back. Then, pull through level from there. That will give you a spike hyzer and the shot you're looking for.
 
Reach with your right hand as if you're untying your left shoe when you are reaching back. Then, pull through level from there. That will give you a spike hyzer and the shot you're looking for.

I find overhand shots are more accurate. Since you are FH dominate the OH shot should also be relatively easier to master.

More in depth technique description of spike hyzers:
 

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