TheBeardedFatGuy
Birdie Member
I've been working on getting my drives to do a gentle curve to the right (RHBH) for some time and I've watched dozens of videos, poured over written advice, and tried much of what I found out on the field before I finally figured out what works for me. This post is to share what I found in the hopes it will help someone. It may or may not be what you find works best for you.
First, let me be clear. What I was after wasn't an 'anhyzer bomb' that goes high and comes down at a sharp angle. What I wanted was a drive that tips just slightly to the right and holds that line for the entire flight without fading back left or turning over and becoming a roller.
There are three basic techniques I found: 1. Angle the disc by bending the wrist. 2. Angle the disc by bending the spine. 3. Angle the disc by adjusting the grip. Of these three, the last is the one I found most effective and easy to control. There are other methods such as rolling the wrist at the last moment, but this is extremely difficult to do well with any sort of consistency.
The basic technique of an anhyzer (or hyzer for that matter) by adjusting the grip is pretty simple. Basically, with a standard power grip, you either move your thumb out towards the edge of the disc (pressing there tips the disc up in an anhyzer angle) or move the thumb farther from the rim (pressing there tips the disc down in a hyzer angle). Get that angle and hold it through your drive and that's basically it. Here's why this is a good way to get your angle:
1. It's simple. All you have to worry about is not letting your grip shift until the disc rips out.
2. It works for either hyzer or anhyzer. Other angled shots, like a flex shot, require different arm positions depending on what you're throwing. (An anhyzer flex shot is thrown at or above shoulder height, for example.)
3. (This is a big one) You don't change any other aspects of your drive, which means you are less likely to screw it up or lose power.
Below is an illustration I drew to help clarify things. There are only two pitfalls I've encountered using this technique. First, when holding the disc angled up for an anhyzer, the thumb being close to the edge of the disc and the disc tipping up away from the fingers under the rim makes it more likely the disc will slip out, releasing early, or at least not getting the amount of snap you want. Focusing on a tight grip, especially with the thumb and forefinger helps overcome this. The other downside is subtle, but important. As the illustration shows, when you have the disc angled one way (say, anhyzer), then you reach back, because you are rotating your hand and the disc 180 degrees for the reach back, the angle reverses - the higher edge of the disc is to the left when your arm is extended toward the target, but to the right when extended away for the target for the reach back. When I realized this was happening, I had kind of an 'aha' moment because I remember times in the past when I thought I was set up for a hyzer/anhyzer, and the disc went the opposite direction on release. Now I think that happened because I reached back, THEN angled the disc what I thought was the right way. I was totally missing the fact that the disc rotates 180 degrees from reach back to release. I was probably misled by all the advice that tells us the disc should travel a flat plane throughout the throw. It does, but only when you're throwing it flat. For an angled shot, the angled plane rotates 180 degrees from reach back to release. Just something to think about. This is easily overcome by extending your arm toward the target first and setting your angled grip before reaching back. And, during the reach back, you have to ignore the fact that the disc now looks angled the opposite of what you wanted.
Just two more pieces of advice. First, and this one should be obvious, it's easier to get an understable disc to anhyzer or get an overstable disc to hyzer - too much of either and you'll turn the disc over into a roller. Hyzers/Anhyzers seem to work fine with a slightly understable disc, but a really stable disc can work well for either throw. And, lastly, the secret to getting any disc to hold a desired angle throughout its flight is good snap and the increased spin momentum that comes with it. The gyroscopic stability of a disc with lots of spin can even counter a discs natural tendencies, like turning left and fading at the end of its flight. The best way to get that snap is to make sure you are gripping the disc fairly tightly between your thumb and forefinger. That ensures that, at the apex of your throw, the disc pivots around your index finger before pulling free, imparting maximum spin and acceleration at the last second.
Hope this helps somebody.
http://www.dgcoursereview.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57064&stc=1&d=1454378851
First, let me be clear. What I was after wasn't an 'anhyzer bomb' that goes high and comes down at a sharp angle. What I wanted was a drive that tips just slightly to the right and holds that line for the entire flight without fading back left or turning over and becoming a roller.
There are three basic techniques I found: 1. Angle the disc by bending the wrist. 2. Angle the disc by bending the spine. 3. Angle the disc by adjusting the grip. Of these three, the last is the one I found most effective and easy to control. There are other methods such as rolling the wrist at the last moment, but this is extremely difficult to do well with any sort of consistency.
The basic technique of an anhyzer (or hyzer for that matter) by adjusting the grip is pretty simple. Basically, with a standard power grip, you either move your thumb out towards the edge of the disc (pressing there tips the disc up in an anhyzer angle) or move the thumb farther from the rim (pressing there tips the disc down in a hyzer angle). Get that angle and hold it through your drive and that's basically it. Here's why this is a good way to get your angle:
1. It's simple. All you have to worry about is not letting your grip shift until the disc rips out.
2. It works for either hyzer or anhyzer. Other angled shots, like a flex shot, require different arm positions depending on what you're throwing. (An anhyzer flex shot is thrown at or above shoulder height, for example.)
3. (This is a big one) You don't change any other aspects of your drive, which means you are less likely to screw it up or lose power.
Below is an illustration I drew to help clarify things. There are only two pitfalls I've encountered using this technique. First, when holding the disc angled up for an anhyzer, the thumb being close to the edge of the disc and the disc tipping up away from the fingers under the rim makes it more likely the disc will slip out, releasing early, or at least not getting the amount of snap you want. Focusing on a tight grip, especially with the thumb and forefinger helps overcome this. The other downside is subtle, but important. As the illustration shows, when you have the disc angled one way (say, anhyzer), then you reach back, because you are rotating your hand and the disc 180 degrees for the reach back, the angle reverses - the higher edge of the disc is to the left when your arm is extended toward the target, but to the right when extended away for the target for the reach back. When I realized this was happening, I had kind of an 'aha' moment because I remember times in the past when I thought I was set up for a hyzer/anhyzer, and the disc went the opposite direction on release. Now I think that happened because I reached back, THEN angled the disc what I thought was the right way. I was totally missing the fact that the disc rotates 180 degrees from reach back to release. I was probably misled by all the advice that tells us the disc should travel a flat plane throughout the throw. It does, but only when you're throwing it flat. For an angled shot, the angled plane rotates 180 degrees from reach back to release. Just something to think about. This is easily overcome by extending your arm toward the target first and setting your angled grip before reaching back. And, during the reach back, you have to ignore the fact that the disc now looks angled the opposite of what you wanted.
Just two more pieces of advice. First, and this one should be obvious, it's easier to get an understable disc to anhyzer or get an overstable disc to hyzer - too much of either and you'll turn the disc over into a roller. Hyzers/Anhyzers seem to work fine with a slightly understable disc, but a really stable disc can work well for either throw. And, lastly, the secret to getting any disc to hold a desired angle throughout its flight is good snap and the increased spin momentum that comes with it. The gyroscopic stability of a disc with lots of spin can even counter a discs natural tendencies, like turning left and fading at the end of its flight. The best way to get that snap is to make sure you are gripping the disc fairly tightly between your thumb and forefinger. That ensures that, at the apex of your throw, the disc pivots around your index finger before pulling free, imparting maximum spin and acceleration at the last second.
Hope this helps somebody.
http://www.dgcoursereview.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57064&stc=1&d=1454378851
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