It means $6 of your buy-in goes into the total payout. So if you have ten players, there's $60 in the prize pool to be paid out to those that cash.
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Noobie Question Thread (Dumb Questions answered here)
- Thread starter Frank Delicious
- Start date
It means $6 of your buy-in goes into the total payout. So if you have ten players, there's $60 in the prize pool to be paid out to those that cash.
TeeSquared
Par Member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2012
- Messages
- 132
Who gets the other dollar?
NuNinja
Eagle Member
It goes to fees and such?
TeeSquared
Par Member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2012
- Messages
- 132
I'm sure/ I know it does, i just thought the comment funny that there was no question as to how come the total didn't actually add up to ten instead of nine.
I guess i could have also read it wrong... I was thinking the ten dollar buy in was reg fee total, 3 dollars of which goes to ace pot 6 to pay out, one dollar left over...
But if it's 10 for buy in, 3 for ace pot which i guess is usually optional and... aww, who cares. i know the remainder always goes to "other" fees.
Last edited:
NuNinja
Eagle Member
Where do you get 3 dollars from?
EDIT
$3 ace pot? I think that is an extra 3 dollars if I'm not mistaken.
jsc430
Double Eagle Member
When and what disc was the first in star plastic?
Nightshift?
Tulsa Orc?
2005 Xmas Wraith?
Nightshift?
Tulsa Orc?
2005 Xmas Wraith?
DG addict24
Birdie Member
Why is it that champion plastic is more overstable than the other plastics? Also how is Discraft's Z a lot like champion, but they don't seem to have the same problem?
Halcón
Free At Last
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2012
- Messages
- 12,038
It's not that Champ is necessarily more overstable. It's that it stays overstable throw after throw.
From Innova:
You can throw a brand new DX Teebird (for example), and for that first throw, it might be as stable as a Champ. But, it won't take long before it loses that overstablity.
DG addict24
Birdie Member
Well then are their flight rating based on discs after a certain time of use, like the boss in champion is 13 5 0 3 instead of -1 3, same kind of thing with the tern.
hk chef
Par Member
How do I tag this thread so I can go through all 374 pages?? Lol. I think I will learn a lot from this post
NEWADDICTION
Bogey Member
I read every page and it helped me a TON!!!!!! I highly reccomend it
As a general rule: Champ/Z/Opto style plastic is the most overstable, Star/ESP/Gold Line style the next, then Pro/X style, then DX/D as the least. The speed in which they break in follows that same general rule.
It's important to note however, that different discs cool differently in different plastics so exceptions can skew that general rule thanks to really high/low PLH, dome, flashing and other characteristics. A lot of the older molds that were designed before premium plastic can be markedly different and arguably fly better or truer in base plastic. The Cyclone is a good example of this, Z Cyclones didn't mold up much like a Cyclone and are generally regarded as glideless junk.
How do I use this knowledge?: A lot of base plastic discs are great for cycling, i.e. having multiple discs of the same mold in different stages of wear (read: stability). Say you really like the Eagle or Teebird. You can grab 3-4 and start beating one into an understable disc, then eventually you have all stabilities covered from fresh (overstable) to beat to hell (understable). Same mold means more familiarity which breeds consistency.
The other route and probably more common one is to pick up discs that fly "out of the box" like you want and will stay that way due to the premium plastic. The only big disadvantage of this is if you lose that perfectly flippy Champ Leopard, it can be a task replacing it with a similarly flippy Champ Leo, plus premium plastic costs more. But, even if you're a cycler, it makes sense to fill those really overstable slots with premium plastic discs because even DX Firebirds or Banshees will lose that dependable overstability eventually.
Because all discs regardless of plastic will wear in at least a little bit, what I like to do is get a premium plastic disc that is a little bit more overstable than what I want when new because it'll beat in to a point and stay there for a very long time. Finding a mold that beats into the sweet spot of stability you're looking for is simply great and you'll get a lot of use out of that disc.
It's important to note however, that different discs cool differently in different plastics so exceptions can skew that general rule thanks to really high/low PLH, dome, flashing and other characteristics. A lot of the older molds that were designed before premium plastic can be markedly different and arguably fly better or truer in base plastic. The Cyclone is a good example of this, Z Cyclones didn't mold up much like a Cyclone and are generally regarded as glideless junk.
How do I use this knowledge?: A lot of base plastic discs are great for cycling, i.e. having multiple discs of the same mold in different stages of wear (read: stability). Say you really like the Eagle or Teebird. You can grab 3-4 and start beating one into an understable disc, then eventually you have all stabilities covered from fresh (overstable) to beat to hell (understable). Same mold means more familiarity which breeds consistency.
The other route and probably more common one is to pick up discs that fly "out of the box" like you want and will stay that way due to the premium plastic. The only big disadvantage of this is if you lose that perfectly flippy Champ Leopard, it can be a task replacing it with a similarly flippy Champ Leo, plus premium plastic costs more. But, even if you're a cycler, it makes sense to fill those really overstable slots with premium plastic discs because even DX Firebirds or Banshees will lose that dependable overstability eventually.
Because all discs regardless of plastic will wear in at least a little bit, what I like to do is get a premium plastic disc that is a little bit more overstable than what I want when new because it'll beat in to a point and stay there for a very long time. Finding a mold that beats into the sweet spot of stability you're looking for is simply great and you'll get a lot of use out of that disc.
NuNinja
Eagle Member
I believe that it is a happy accident or it wouldn't be natural.
GordEzo
Birdie Member
Beefy
So , this is a term I've been seeing more and more of and haven't quite figured it out but is it kinda like under beefy , beefy and over beefy ?
So , this is a term I've been seeing more and more of and haven't quite figured it out but is it kinda like under beefy , beefy and over beefy ?
joshmo65
Eagle Member
I consider beefy to be overstable. Never heard of under or over beefy.......
holotone
Birdie Member
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2011
- Messages
- 412
Pretty sure they are the result of going from one color of discs to another, so if they've been molding green Wraiths for example and then start molding some blue Wraiths, some leftover green plastic gets mixed into the blue Wraiths as green swirls.
knettles
Double Eagle Member
Some others explained, but I don't think anyone answered specifically from a physics standpoint. The reason why champion plastic is most overstable is because it's the smoothest and causes less air resistance. When a disc spins through the air, the tiny (and sometimes not so tiny) scratches, gouges, and surface texture grab at the air and pull it to the right (for RHBH throws). Discs with a smoother surface texture don't grab the air as much. And champion stays overstable longest because it's the most durable.
