Tee Box Areas

[Matt B.]

I'm looking for pictures, ideas, specs on what I will call "tee boxes" - basically the area around the pad. Interested in both areas around tee pads installed flush with the soil surface, and around pads installed "on top" of the ground.

I've seen pavers, areas framed by logs, dimensional lumber or rocks and filled with gravel or wood chips. What worked for your course and what didn't? What do you like as a player? Not really looking for examples of highly elevated pads and some of the steps and such you get with those.

Pictures, specs, descriptions, or even just course names that have pictures on this site I can look at would be very helpful, thanks!

 

[Matt B.]

Ok, good talk!

So, we are installing some teepads above grade in order to deal with some seasonal wet areas and to mitigate erosion and compaction. Since the pads will end up 4-6" inches above the surrounding ground, I am interested in examples of ways people have approached the situation. We need to build up around the pad for player safety.

Do you have anything similar at a course near you? Can you think of a course with this kind of tee pad situation? Ever seen something terrible or awesome, and what was it?

I've got some basic ideas, bur I'm looking to see what is out there, what works and what doesn't. Thanks!

 

[goosefraba1]

Not sure if this is much help... but I believe that there are several courses that have solved this with decking. I believe Blue Ribbon Pines might have one of these pads. Typically decking with a rubber pad on top. Redeemer in West Virginia is another course to look at.

 

[torihanus]

I live in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan in the Keweenaw Peninsula. 75% of our courses have natural dirt pads. This is what I'm used to. Personally, there are both pros and cons to have natural dirt pads. I have played courses in my local area where the dirt becomes wet and erodes to where roots and rocks are sticking out on the tee pad. That is not fun. One slip-up, and you can potentially hurt yourself or make a bad throw. There are many times where I throw my tee shot around the tee pad rather than on the pad itself, because of these safety hazards. However when properly maintained, they're fine. The best example of natural dirt pads I have played at is Calumet Lake DGC in Calumet, Michigan. Check out their DGCR page when you get a chance.

Michigan Tech uses rubber pads, if you want to be lazy/don't have the time to make pads. You can essentially put down the rubber pad wherever you want and not have to worry about creating a concrete or natural tee pad. On the other hand, players can move these rubber pads after you place them down. You can check out their DGCR page at "MTU Disc Golf."

Personally as a player, I prefer concrete tee pads. I prefer if they are built into the ground rather than above the ground, but that's because my run-up is slightly longer than tee pads. I understand that it is a pain to initially create this at each hole, but the end result is less maintenance.

 

[Matt B.]

We are pouring the pads. I'm looking for examples of what people use to backfill around pads that are above grade.

 

[Atvizory2000]

I would push dirt up against the pad or mulch

 

[Aim For The Chains]

you need a pretty massive supporting area around the tee which is above grade in order to keep it from always needing maintenance and being a safety issue. pretty much 1.5x the footprint of the actual concrete being poured. Large rocks are your friend but a PITA to move. Class5 tampered down is the standard for lots of concrete build ups. Hell we even filled in a swimming pool 4' using it to make shallow for young kids in a new family.

Drainage is a big factor if the area is getting wet regularly it might actually be easier to try and improve the overall drainage vs keep raised teepads maintained. Flush are always better in my experience. Logs/wood will rot if the area gets wet and pretty much a lost cause. Sand is pretty easy to get and maintain.

 

[Aim For The Chains]

if you have the Bryant Lake Budget, just make a huge paver road all the way to the middle of the fairway

 

[sisyphus]

I was going to bring that one up: most amazing investment I've ever seen. :thmbup:

The raised box tee pads at Osage Grove have gotten mixed, but mostly positive reviews, and, if the buget allows, you could make them expansive like the trapezoid on hole twelve. Instead of the compacted gravel and flypads, you could do concrete for the tee box, frame the area around and put in mulch, gravel, or pavers...

 

[Aim For The Chains]

My only complaint with those would be the fact they look too small. Running straight up the teepad is for n00bs

The one has decent space from the back to front off the rubber mat but nothing to sides and IMO trapezoid should be the tee inside a rectangle box.

 

[sisyphus]

Yeah, my first time playing with a 1000 rated pro, he was frustrated most of the day with not being able to angle step onto the pad. He had some different lines than I did, that's for sure!

 

[Matt B.]

Thanks guys - this is the kind of stuff I am looking for!

The raised pads are in some areas that are seasonally wet. When it gets really wet, some of the holes with raised pads will be closed. Basically trying to anticipate issues with compaction and erosion in these sometimes wet areas and build it to mitigate from the beginning rather than address it when it becomes a problem.

We don't have the Bryant Yellow Brick Road budget, but we do have some funds to work with. I'm thinking the big box around the teepad filled with rock approach or something like that. I'd love to frame with big rock, but we will probably start with wood in most cases.

Any other pictures or course names that I can research? I like seeing what's out there.

 

[Stardoggy]

if you have the Bryant Lake Budget, just make a huge paver road all the way to the middle of the fairway

Next time I play Bryant, I'm running a putter roller down this one.

 

[Aim For The Chains]

BRP #7

 

[Matt B.]

you need a pretty massive supporting area around the tee which is above grade in order to keep it from always needing maintenance and being a safety issue. pretty much 1.5x the footprint of the actual concrete being poured. Large rocks are your friend but a PITA to move. Class5 tampered down is the standard for lots of concrete build ups. Hell we even filled in a swimming pool 4' using it to make shallow for young kids in a new family.

Drainage is a big factor if the area is getting wet regularly it might actually be easier to try and improve the overall drainage vs keep raised teepads maintained. Flush are always better in my experience. Logs/wood will rot if the area gets wet and pretty much a lost cause. Sand is pretty easy to get and maintain.

Thanks Aim! We won't be able to any extensive drainage work. Large Rocks - for the framing of the backfill or for the backfill? And what exactly is Class 5 (assuming it's a gravel)? Any tips for compacting it?

 

[Matt B.]

I was going to bring that one up: most amazing investment I've ever seen. :thmbup:

The raised box tee pads at Osage Grove have gotten mixed, but mostly positive reviews, and, if the buget allows, you could make them expansive like the trapezoid on hole twelve. Instead of the compacted gravel and flypads, you could do concrete for the tee box, frame the area around and put in mulch, gravel, or pavers...

Thanks - great pictures. I'm envisioning more like the big one - the smaller one still leaves the possibility of tripping off the side.

 

[Matt B.]

BRP #7

Ok, now that just gave me a design boner. That is higher than we will need to build up to but really looks great.

 

[Stardoggy]

Typical Rollin' Ridge tee areas. A few are a bit more built up.

 

[Aim For The Chains]

other tee showing on the backside ^

 

[glassila]

My course (Calumet Lake Disc Golf) currently has natural/dirt tees and we plan on putting in pavers yet this fall. We are getting 18" pavers and will use 3 across and 4 or 5 long, which will equal 4'6" width and 6' or 7'6" in length.
The area behind the pavers will be level with the pavers so throwers can have a longer run-up, but only the last 6' or so will be on cement.
We plan to put the pavers at ground level.