Tree Planting and Course Design

[Dana]

Hypothetical situation- you've got a wide open field and need to include a few holes here. What kind of trees/bushes/etc are you planting? These would more so be future obstacles vs. beautifying the park/course.

What kind of tree would you plant for beautifying the course (aka a tree that doesn't come in to play, but is there to add beauty to the course/park)?

Any particular kind to stay away from?

Any general tree planting tips or advise?

 

[DavidSauls]

Something that grows fast, and is suitable to your climate and region. The answer is different, everywhere.

If the trees are close to the tee, something with hard bark, or dense foliage, so it's not damaged by bark strikes.

Here, my first choice would be tulip poplars---fast growing, straight, attractive, and native.

 

[esdubya]

Terry Calhoun should be able to help you, easily found on FB.

I know enough to say I don't know enough.

 

[Aim For The Chains]

Something that grows fast, and is suitable to your climate and region. The answer is different, everywhere..

Big time. The answer can change within a few hundred feet given impact of roots or available water soil compositions and maintenance availability etc...

 

[DavidSauls]

Depending on the situation, you might check with the parks department. I recall when we were planting trees at Earlewood, and they vetoed one choice.

Mike Harrington is on DGCR (can't recall his DGCR name at the moment), and I'm pretty sure he's a landscaper, a little north of you. You might track him down, if he doesn't show up here on his own.

The choice for beautifying an open area is vast, as you can see by yards and garden centers. Most trees and shrubs like open sunshine. The choice for the course is restricted a bit, but still pretty wide.

Two tips, from a private course owner:

(1) Trees grow slowly. Unless you have a huge budget, you'll be planting smaller trees that won't be effective obstacles for 5 or 10 years.

(2) Trees grow out, as well as up. Keep in mind the eventual canopy width, or you'll create problems down the road.

 

[Cgkdisc]

Get staghorn sumac underway as a great DG fairway boundary hazard.

 

[biscoe]

Leyland cypress around here.

 

[Tim_the_Enchanter]

Leyland cypress around here.

Around here too--I dare say they'd do well in most parts of the country except maybe arid/semi-arid environments. Fast growing, dense foliage, and readily available. They are sometimes discouraged for home plantings because they grow too big, too fast and can outgrow their space. Obviously, that's not a problem for most disc golf courses. I think they're probably about the best bet in terms of having a good barrier/obstacle in a relatively short time.

 

[DavidSauls]

Leyland Cypresses don't do too well in the Southeast, where they're subject to a disease.

Otherwise, they're excellent for fast growth and dense foliage. More of a hedge than a shade tree. They have a formal appearance, so depending on the setting they can look very good, or out of place.

 

[DavidSauls]

A generic caution: Many fast-growing trees are also weak, dropping limbs, splitting, or dying young. It's the price you pay for speed. Not all of them, but buy with caution.

 

[BogeyNoMore]

Mike Harrington is on DGCR (can't recall his DGCR name at the moment), and I'm pretty sure he's a landscaper, a little north of you. You might track him down, if he doesn't show up here on his own.

His screen name is Harr0140.

 

[mullethead326]

Huge recommendations:

1. Know what plant hardiness zone, sunlight, and water/groundwater requirements your trees need. Soil testing wouldn't be a bad option (and could also tell you more about stable surfaces for tees and structures, as well as how well the area may drain).
2. Always get native trees! They will better fit the ecology of the area and be far less likely to outcompete native and desirable vegetation. Refer to your state DNR or the USDA info sheets for location data.
3. Space them appropriately. Remember that 5-10 years is a long time for DG, but barely long enough for even a rapid-growing tree to reach maturity.
4. Protect them from discs. Protect them from animals (deer rubs and forage, etc). Saplings are especially susceptible when their bark is compromised. Keep the root system protected and watered for as long as possible. Look up how to mulch for different species.
5. Consider the growth pattern of the tree. Straight, narrow, and high works for a stand of second-growth pine; it definitely doesn't when it's the only tree around--without nearby trees for a windbreak, it's vulnerable. A sprawling live oak could be a great feature, but it could also usurp your fairway. What will the tree look like in 10, 20, 50 years?
6. Know about utilities (underground, overhead, proposed). If you plant it, you could be on the hook for maintenance and/or damages incurred.
7. In addition to trees, really think about erosion control in the landscaping phase of the design. An unmowed buffer around water features will reduce bank erosion. Steps or switchbacks (see USFS Trail Manual) will help limit total disturbed area on hillsides. Etc, etc.

If you want more specific info, I can talk to biologist nerds at work. I love trees, in that they exist. They love trees, in that it's all they care about.

 

[BogeyNoMore]

^Rarely have I seen such an insightful post.

 

[Tim_the_Enchanter]

Huge recommendations:

1. Know what plant hardiness zone, sunlight, and water/groundwater requirements your trees need. Soil testing wouldn't be a bad option (and could also tell you more about stable surfaces for tees and structures, as well as how well the area may drain).
2. Always get native trees! They will better fit the ecology of the area and be far less likely to outcompete native and desirable vegetation. Refer to your state DNR or the USDA info sheets for location data.
3. Space them appropriately. Remember that 5-10 years is a long time for DG, but barely long enough for even a rapid-growing tree to reach maturity.
4. Protect them from discs. Protect them from animals (deer rubs and forage, etc). Saplings are especially susceptible when their bark is compromised. Keep the root system protected and watered for as long as possible. Look up how to mulch for different species.
5. Consider the growth pattern of the tree. Straight, narrow, and high works for a stand of second-growth pine; it definitely doesn't when it's the only tree around--without nearby trees for a windbreak, it's vulnerable. A sprawling live oak could be a great feature, but it could also usurp your fairway. What will the tree look like in 10, 20, 50 years?
6. Know about utilities (underground, overhead, proposed). If you plant it, you could be on the hook for maintenance and/or damages incurred.
7. In addition to trees, really think about erosion control in the landscaping phase of the design. An unmowed buffer around water features will reduce bank erosion. Steps or switchbacks (see USFS Trail Manual) will help limit total disturbed area on hillsides. Etc, etc.

If you want more specific info, I can talk to biologist nerds at work. I love trees, in that they exist. They love trees, in that it's all they care about.

I agree with all of your points except #2. Definitely plant the right tree for the space, but "exotic" isn't necessarily bad, and "native" isn't necessarily good. For instance, touching on David's point about fast growing trees, black cottonwood is a native here, and it grows fast and tall. However, it's also known for dropping big parts as it gets older, so it's not ideal for a public space.

On the other hand, the tulip tree that David mentioned is not a native species, but grows fantastically in our region. It's a highly recommended tree if you have the space for it. And heck, the Leyland cypress isn't a native to anywhere, it's a man made hybrid, but is probably the most ubiquitous "barrier tree" you'll see in the US.

I think more what you were getting at is don't plant invasives--those definitely CAN be problematic. English holly loves it here, and while it thrives in just about any conditions, it takes over and outcompetes other plants. And it's nearly impossible to get rid of without herbicide. On top of everything else, it's stabby, and who wants that?

 

[Disc Golf Live]

Last time we did a big planting around here in SE MI, we took a varied approach. We planted several larger pines and at the base of each pine (blocking incoming shots a bit) we planted a pair of much more inexpensive shrubs. The shrubs were pennies on the dollar and well worth it. Tree wrap/plastic tubing can also protect more delicate trees if you go that route.

The shrub/tree groupings have worked out quite well for us. We were guided in what to select by park naturalists (they're quite against invasive species that they actively planted themselves years ago...) and by staff at the nursery where we bought the plants. Be sure to let the wholesaler know you'd be happy to take "park" grade trees, they usually get sold well below the more pristine examples.

Also, if you are looking to create challenges near the tee (or elsewhere), don't overlook the value of dead tree trunks. No living tree can be planted near a tee without significant risk of damage. However, a nice fat tree trunk from a fallen tree can be planted anywhere nearby without concern, a great way to restrict player options right at the tee zone. Our park guy here just augers out a nice deep hole, maneuvers the trunk into position, then tamps it down. They stand for years before rotting out eventually.

Joe

 

[DavidSauls]

We were guided in what to select by park naturalists (they're quite against invasive species that they actively planted themselves years ago...) and by staff at the nursery where we bought the plants.

Definitely the place to start---if available and applicable. (We don't know if this is a park or private land, or whether a park in a big enough area to have expertise).

Along with the specific environment---soil, moisture, etc.

The next steps in paring down the options are the intents and limitations for disc golf. Speed of growth, if you want to have impact in the near future. If on or near the fairway, particularly if close to the tee, vulnerability to disc strikes (or measures to protect against them), and whether the trees grow vertically, or spread a canopy which could be beneficial, or problematic. Trees that don't drop fruits or other items that can be a nuisance (sweet gums in the Southeast, but fruits like crabapples are a nuisance, too). Might want to consider shade potential for trees that are near tees, but not on the fairway. Hedge potential (i.e,; Leyland cypresses) for separating fairways.

And ornamental value---which may come to how well they blend in, or stand out, depending on the particular land in use.

 

[esdubya]

Excellent contributions, golf clap all around

 

[Aim For The Chains]

I will deliver free buckthron to anyone who wants it within 5 mile radius.

All great advice here. Planting a tree and having it struggle to take root or be subject to xyz condition is like dealing with a sick child lol.

Some really good hybrid types being created locally here and imagine that is true other places.

Anyone try to grow hops on their course?

 

[DavidSauls]

All great advice here. Planting a tree and having it struggle to take root or be subject to xyz condition is like dealing with a sick child lol.

Very true. And not only that, but it sometimes takes a few years for the thing to die---or for you to give up on it---and then you have to start over with something more suitable.

Trees grow slowly enough as it is, without wasting so much time on the wrong ones.

 

[Aim For The Chains]

The worst part is you really want them to grow fast and that just doesn't happen.

Ive had 2 identical trees placed within 10' grow differently given the same exact care. and planting saplings in the woods might take a lifetime to see the benefit. I think some 10 year old pines that were few inch shoots are finally knee high bush like things lol.