Woods Advice For A Sporadic Roc Tosser

[InvaderMirO]

i will have to bring some out and try them again. Do the KC Pro Rocs beat in well also? they are much harder but the plastic does still get gouged up.

id say currently the axis and vector are my most thrown and most comfortable discs, i know how they fly and for most of the holes around here <350 they are all i need.
though i still am looking for a shorter and more controlled midrange for upshots where my putters don't have a good line.

i tried to cycle worn teebirds for a while but didn't have that great of luck. i found that after a good tree hit they would always fly much different, going from a nice stable straight flyer on one throw and then flippy like a roadrunner on the next.
this could have largely been due to user error as i wasn't a consistent player at that time and i was looking to teebirds as a "simplify my bag, and only throw rocs/teebirds phase"

 

[VictorB]

KC Pro Rocs typically beat in a lot slower than their DX counterparts. Main exception is the crappy run of 12x plastic that was really soft, more like a stiffer dx, not what you want from a KC Pro.

Cycling Teebirds is a much different story than cycling Rocs. Teebirds are really only good at one direction flights. Cycling eagles is where it's at for those fairway drivers. I love dx teebirds, but still sit them next to a star and champ in my bag, and pair the mold with predators and jackals simply because they aren't super versatile.

DX Rocs work with cycling just because they are closer to eagles in terms of versatility and ability to shape shots (especially if you add in KC Pro or premium plastic into the equation)

 

[dgdave]

All my 3 axis (1 1st run and 2 non 1st run) are just straight. Really no turn to speak of.

 

[JR]

Mine are straight only when i get a clean release and a lot of spin on the disc. Meaning no margin of error OAT wise. That is a bad thing for tunnels where a straight flight is needed.

Another straight disc that can move a ton sideways both left and right if you miss hyzer angle is a Mako. A Coyote glides a hair less and fades a hair more at under 310' or so and over that starts to straighten out to almost match the Mako in straightness of the finish. The Coyote won't turn for me at 280-300' but at full tilt i may have a wrist roll or the disc flips about two to three degrees and given height will flex back to flat or on a very high throw fades a smidge not that many feet. Unless it runs out of speed at altitude.

 

[BirdieMachine]

My KC Pro Roc 176 White that I bought recently is super durable, Stiff and quite hard plastic. Not even comparable to DX Roc in wear. Much more durable then Pro plastic in other molds as well. Ive hardly gotten a scrape out of it, while DX on one bad tree or rock hit can take a big gouge out. So if you want a more durable Roc, KC Pro is the best choice.

 

[Drowsy]

Yes, the Roc (as well as a few other discs) do have a magical ability to become different as they season.* That's why 'cycling' rocs is such a popular strategy - in different stages of wear, they become different types of useful discs all from the same mold. This is also a big benefit of throwing baseline plastic discs. Your Roc is too straight for hyzer shots now? Go buy a new one, and keep the straight one. Your roc turns too much, even when thrown from a hyzer? Congratulations, you now have 3 rocs in your bag, overstable, stable, and understable. The best part(s)? They cost $9, are easy to replace, and don't take years to beat in like premium plastic does.


*Protip: Basically any mold that was created with the intent to be manufactured in baseline plastic will do this.

I prefer to have a disc that when I buy it, it suits the role I bought it for. And not just for 3-6 months. If you want a stable midrange, buy a z buzzz and smile. It's the best midrange at flying straight and you didn't need to throw it for 4 months to get it to fly like that. It will also cover your understable slot. Then buy a star rancho roc and smile again. You have an overstable midrange. Now you have 2 discs that will cover all three of those shots and they are made of a plastic that will hold it's stability a long time. I figure you will end up spending more money replacing discs that have worn out they're usefulness before I will lose a premium plastic disc. I hear about people throwing dx frequently on the forum, but everywhere I go, and all the usdgc videos I have watched, and all the leagues I play, DX does one thing well. IT FLIES OVER WATER. ;]

 

[Frank Delicious]

You must not go a lot of places because a lot of the pros and adv players around here throw DX rocs.

 

[Working Stiff]

I prefer to have a disc that when I buy it, it suits the role I bought it for.

A lot of people are like this. That's why Champ and Star discs sell so well. You just don't get to experience the awesomeness of a sweetly beat in DX disc. :wink:

 

[Drowsy]

I did the dx cycling thing about 5 years ago. Its great when you have a stable roc. Sucks when you lose one. I did, and my friend handed me a buzzz. I wasnt big on discrapft at the time. Threw it. Loved it. Never looked back.

 

[VictorB]

Yes, the Roc (as well as a few other discs) do have a magical ability to become different as they season.* That's why 'cycling' rocs is such a popular strategy - in different stages of wear, they become different types of useful discs all from the same mold. This is also a big benefit of throwing baseline plastic discs. Your Roc is too straight for hyzer shots now? Go buy a new one, and keep the straight one. Your roc turns too much, even when thrown from a hyzer? Congratulations, you now have 3 rocs in your bag, overstable, stable, and understable. The best part(s)? They cost $9, are easy to replace, and don't take years to beat in like premium plastic does.


*Protip: Basically any mold that was created with the intent to be manufactured in baseline plastic will do this.

I prefer to have a disc that when I buy it, it suits the role I bought it for. And not just for 3-6 months. If you want a stable midrange, buy a z buzzz and smile. It's the best midrange at flying straight and you didn't need to throw it for 4 months to get it to fly like that. It will also cover your understable slot. Then buy a star rancho roc and smile again. You have an overstable midrange. Now you have 2 discs that will cover all three of those shots and they are made of a plastic that will hold it's stability a long time. I figure you will end up spending more money replacing discs that have worn out they're usefulness before I will lose a premium plastic disc. I hear about people throwing dx frequently on the forum, but everywhere I go, and all the usdgc videos I have watched, and all the leagues I play, DX does one thing well. IT FLIES OVER WATER. ;]

The whole point of using rocs is to have the same feel and the same mold to be able to cover your spectrum of midrange shots. Most people that throw a buzzz do so because they don't like the beaded mold of a roc or comet or whatever. Have fun losing your 4 year old flippy buzzz that you can't buy a replacement for off the shelf, in the same mold. I'll just pull another roc out of my stash and put it in the rotation without flinching.

it takes a LOT longer than 3-6 months to break the stability out of a dx rancho roc. other than that, I really don't have much to say since there are people that just prefer premium plastic midranges no matter the reasoning.

 

[colombo117]

Yeah, it helps to build up a stash of new, seasoned, and beat rocs. I like premium plastic, but dx feels great when worn in and my 3 year old dx roc is a hyzer flipping machine, still super straight. I have a few star rocs and they only stayed in the bag for a bit.

To each their own.

 

[Drowsy]

The whole point of using rocs is to have the same feel and the same mold to be able to cover your spectrum of midrange shots. Most people that throw a buzzz do so because they don't like the beaded mold of a roc or comet or whatever. Have fun losing your 4 year old flippy buzzz that you can't buy a replacement for off the shelf, in the same mold. I'll just pull another roc out of my stash and put it in the rotation without flinching.

it takes a LOT longer than 3-6 months to break the stability out of a dx rancho roc. other than that, I really don't have much to say since there are people that just prefer premium plastic midranges no matter the reasoning.

I meant per cycle. Aka, OS to S, S to flippy. So by your math, it takes how long exactly to hit that "sweet spot" of dead straight? And how long again till it gets flippy? I play wooded courses, Im interested how long it takes for a single cycle, and a full cycle of one roc. Everbody answer this one.

 

[VictorB]

I meant per cycle. Aka, OS to S, S to flippy. So by your math, it takes how long exactly to hit that "sweet spot" of dead straight? And how long again till it gets flippy? I play wooded courses, Im interested how long it takes for a single cycle, and a full cycle of one roc. Everbody answer this one.

Well, I put a brand new 175 dx roc in my bag in July of last year, and it's started it's straight phase. I have a dx roc from 2004 that is thrashed and a good turnover disc, but still will hyzer flip to flat and hold it if I want it to. I have yet to throw a roc so long and get it so beat up that it loses it's usefulness, so I can't comment on how long a full cycle takes. A dx roc isn't really super overstable even when new so you should be able to get them to fly straight on longer shots right off the shelf.

If I ventured a hypothesis, I'd say a brand new dx roc takes 2-4 months to beat it's initial overstability out. The wear process slows significantly after that phase - though it's still easy to have one primary that you throw a lot and get it to a beat stage. Most people will put something similar to an x comet or ontario mold roc in the bag until they get a rancho nice and worn in for a turnover disc.

 

[Frank Delicious]

DX rocs definitely suffer from plastic variations but when I was playing more it took me about 4 months to get one to straight (as in very little fade) and probably another month to get it to straight with no fade. From there it would last quite a while in that stage as a beat roc is very easy to manipulate with hyzer and nose angle. I would say I get a roc to the flippy, not-coming-back, stage in about a year.

I actually just had some horrible luck and broke all three of my super beat DX rocs and am rocking a worn ESP comet in that slot until I can get some one disc rounds in with my only slightly beat rocs.

 

[VictorB]

I actually just had some horrible luck and broke all three of my super beat DX rocs and am rocking a worn ESP comet in that slot until I can get some one disc rounds in with my only slightly beat rocs.

This is the one thing that scares me about throwing dx rocs.

I have about 15 comets idling in the disc box, waiting for it to happen one day.

 

[Frank Delicious]

I usually have a pretty good rotation going and have back up flippy rocs, just having all three break in a week and a half was kinda bad luck.

 

[Drowsy]

If I ventured a hypothesis, I'd say a brand new dx roc takes 2-4 months to beat it's initial overstability out. The wear process slows significantly after that phase - though it's still easy to have one primary that you throw a lot and get it to a beat stage. Most people will put something similar to an x comet or ontario mold roc in the bag until they get a rancho nice and worn in for a turnover disc.[/quote]

So, if you played 12 months a year, for 4 years, replacing a roc every 3 months to fill the overstable slot, you would spend $144. All that in the time it takes for me to lose 1 Z Buzz.

 

[VictorB]

A slippery slope of an argument, indeed.

KC Rocs are produced for a reason. Those take probably 3-4 times longer to wear in.

I'm not saying you're wrong to throw a buzzz. Simply explaining why some people prefer to throw rocs instead.

 

[Drowsy]

I'm not arguing effectiveness. But getting what you're paying for seems far-fetched. And I wouldn't cry about losing my 4 year old flippy buzzz. I'd buy a Buzzz SS. There's no need for cycling anymore unless you are restricted by a sponsor to throwing their plastic. And then $ isn't an issue.

 

[Frank Delicious]

I haven't paid for a DX roc in like 7 years and I have a bin full of them.

Also saying there is no need for cycling anymore is kinda dumb. I cycle everything, I cycle destroyers, preds, solfs, eagles, aviars. I'm not gonna carry 20 different molds, I'm gonna carry the 5-6 I know well and just cycle them.