"You Might Need New Discs"

[RoDeO]

Figure out why people say they mask form problems before saying that they don't, especially when you back it up with a sample size of one.

Here's a start:

If someone is torquing over on a disc, they then think that the disc is too understable and that they need to stable up. One way to stable up is to go up in speed. So now the higher speed/higher stability disc will "eat up" the torque and give a better result, creating a feedback loop of using discs to compensate for form flaws.

Example from earlier in the thread: look at this guy throwing,front side open, poor alignment, going over the top and falling to the right, etc.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iwxr2iqKQpU
This is an example of where someone has poor form and is using all these discs to try and get better results, rather than simply improving form.

I see this common reoccurring philosophy of teaching someone new they shouldn't throw drivers until they can throw x putter or x midrange a certain distance. I mean I guess that's one way to learn. When I tried that approach I wasn't really making big gains with my distance. For about two weeks I was just stuck in this rut of no more gains. Thinking back now I think what it was, was that I was of some false belief that just continuing to throw them I would make these steady gains and I wasn't really putting in more effort to work on throwing harder, to improve my snap, etc. So I went the other direction of throwing my fastest discs harder and focusing on improved effort and timing and snap. Even after just a few days (several hours of hard work every day) I noticed my discs looked better, smoother put of my hand. My slower discs were easier to throw further and easier to control. It changed my mind of the approach. For some reason, my Escape is the most stable acting disc I own. Perhaps it's the plastic, I'm not sure, but now it's a fun disc to throw and watch it sail straight without prematurely crashing out.

Form is a relative thing. Each person has their signature throwing style from their run up into their release and follow through. I think that learning to throw is also a relative thing. Each person learns a little different and the reality of how they progressed and what it was that clicked for each is different. My big moment recently was one little motion in my reach back that helped me to feel the weight of the disc.

First throwing right handed and then switching left helped me to understand the difference between strong arming and uncoiling energy from my body.

I mentioned also watching how discs fly. When I get a driver to go really far I watch what the disc does and try to understand what I did on that throw that made it fly that way. Through a trial and error process of sorts we learn from our errors and successes. I think most people just beginning to throw don't understand the concept of working very hard, battling through error, to find real success. Some work harder than others. Most who work harder than others without giving up usually are rewarded with successes. On average, I probably throw two hours every day in the mornings and at lunch besides Sunday (The Sabbath) just working on distance. I work on my midrange and putts usually in the evenings when I'm not busy. I know how important distance is, especially on the courses around where I live. By most people's standards, yeah, I'm kind of hyperfocused on distance. But, it has made the game funner and easier for me when I do go and play rounds at the courses. I still struggle with distance on uphill holes, but doesn't everyone!

 

[ray1970]

This is an example of where someone has poor form and is using all these discs to try and get better results, rather than simply improving form.

Ha. I think you just described my game.

I will fully admit that my form needs work. But, if I can hide some of those flaws by throwing certain discs and get the results I am looking for then it's hard to argue with the results.

 

[RoDeO]

Of course you need new discs. Buy ALL the discs! Shiny new plastic is half the fun of this hobby.

I absolutely love buying new discs and throwing them the first time. I find that the most fun part of this sport. If I don't like the disc I just buy another. It never gets old!

 

[Rastnav]

All of this is fine, but the form we saw in his video won't get results even out of something like a Diamond, is my guess. You really do need at least a nose down-ish, flat release before you can get to the fun stuff. At least IMHO.

I worry that it will be even more frustrating if one doesn't get to that point early on.

 

[SaROCaM]

I see this common reoccurring philosophy of teaching someone new they shouldn't throw drivers until they can throw x putter or x midrange a certain distance. I mean I guess that's one way to learn. When I tried that approach I wasn't really making big gains with my distance. For about two weeks I was just stuck in this rut of no more gains. Thinking back now I think what it was, was that I was of some false belief that just continuing to throw them I would make these steady gains and I wasn't really putting in more effort to work on throwing harder, to improve my snap, etc. So I went the other direction of throwing my fastest discs harder and focusing on improved effort and timing and snap. Even after just a few days (several hours of hard work every day) I noticed my discs looked better, smoother put of my hand. My slower discs were easier to throw further and easier to control. It changed my mind of the approach. For some reason, my Escape is the most stable acting disc I own. Perhaps it's the plastic, I'm not sure, but now it's a fun disc to throw and watch it sail straight without prematurely crashing out.

Form is a relative thing. Each person has their signature throwing style from their run up into their release and follow through. I think that learning to throw is also a relative thing. Each person learns a little different and the reality of how they progressed and what it was that clicked for each is different. My big moment recently was one little motion in my reach back that helped me to feel the weight of the disc.

First throwing right handed and then switching left helped me to understand the difference between strong arming and uncoiling energy from my body.

I mentioned also watching how discs fly. When I get a driver to go really far I watch what the disc does and try to understand what I did on that throw that made it fly that way. Through a trial and error process of sorts we learn from our errors and successes. I think most people just beginning to throw don't understand the concept of working very hard, battling through error, to find real success. Some work harder than others. Most who work harder than others without giving up usually are rewarded with successes. On average, I probably throw two hours every day in the mornings and at lunch besides Sunday (The Sabbath) just working on distance. I work on my midrange and putts usually in the evenings when I'm not busy. I know how important distance is, especially on the courses around where I live. By most people's standards, yeah, I'm kind of hyperfocused on distance. But, it has made the game funner and easier for me when I do go and play rounds at the courses. I still struggle with distance on uphill holes, but doesn't everyone!

Some good stuff here, especially with highlighting effort and putting in work. I think that whatever you did to help you feel the weight of the disc is a key to moving forward.

As for the philosophy of sticking to slower discs at first, that is a way to eliminate a lot of common issues that new players have right away. It sounds like you were able to navigate your way through effort and putting in a lot of time. Having a foundation based on throwing slower discs is also a way to be able to develop mastery and unlock more options. For example, slower discs skip less. If you can access a green with a putter then you have the option of throwing that and landing it closer to the pin while with a driver you have to take into account greater variance with the skip possibilities. This variance is a variable that can be eliminated/minimized by being able to get there with a slower disc. Another example: tree kicks. They happen. Slower discs tend to have less devastating tree kicks than faster discs. Just so many more options and advantages when one is able to throw slower discs for both control and distance.

Regarding individual signature throwing styles, that is another 80/20 thing. When you break down what good throwers are doing, the important parts are all the same. The individual style differences are just different ways of accomplishing the same principles.

 

[mojorooks]

It took me several rounds at the field throwing my fastest discs as hard as I could to get to a new level with distance with all my discs. I think it holds true throwing any kind of disc if you don't have the right form it won't go far. Throwing faster discs helped me to adjust to the needed velocity at release to throw them right. I worked on getting that snap later and quicker. When I went back to the slower discs they turned into rollers and so now I'm learning to hyzer flip them. I flat out can't throw putters far because they feel awkward in my hand and so I use a traditional frisbee fan grip with pointer finger on the rim. I can still throw it around 200 feet but I'm not going to be throwing discs like that generally. With my 5-6 speed midrange discs it's hard to throw them far as I haven't quite mastered the release angle. Im really most comfortable with My speed 7 River as my main driver for shots up to about 275 feet. Anything around 300 and over I use the distance drivers because they go laser straight and are easy to control down long narrow fairways. I'm a big fan for trying to throw hard and using higher speed discs to push you to increase snap and velocity.

When I first started playing, one of the guys I played with used a Ti Nuke OS (13,4,0,4) exclusively for every shot. I viewed him as good at the time and even listened to him and bought some faster discs but after reading here on DGCR, I disced down. I got to the point where I could outplay him using my slower discs. Then one day he finally lost his 'precious'. His sweet spot was gone and he couldn't hit anything.

Discing down might not work for everyone. it didn't work for RoDeO but it worked for most of us here.

Get out and play. And play different courses. It takes a while to tell what is really going on and why which disc is doing what.

And as R-Ogre said, buy new discs. Not because you have to, but because its fun and it can teach you something.

 

[AlphaFoxFL]

Thank you guys for your input yet again.

I am getting better paths, so sometime in the near future, I'm probably going to record a second form video. Overall, my form feels a lot more stable, as I started rolling on my heel after the release instead of just letting my body's momentum carry me forward. I'm probably going to use my DX Shark since it has 0-turn next time I film, as I think something with the flight-path of my DX Cobra can be hard to tell what's really a level, straight, or overall good shot since it is so forgiving.

When I'm out throwing in a few, I am going to be working on some of the things you mentioned (such as "pouring the kettle"), since I know that I still nose-up a little too much. My shots aren't going as high anymore, but they can be straightened out a bit more.

Once again, I "may" consider getting a higher-speed disc sometime in the future, I just don't know how soon. Since I understand how the flight numbers showcase flight for Innova from using their discs, I'd most likely get a new disc from them. I know a lot of people like the Sidewinder and Roadrunner, but I'm not sure how I'd fair with a -4 or -3 turn disc with 1 fade. That's not saying that they're out of the question at all, I'm just likely going to try out my friends' drivers and see what works best for me.

 

[RoDeO]

Thank you guys for your input yet again.

I am getting better paths, so sometime in the near future, I'm probably going to record a second form video. Overall, my form feels a lot more stable, as I started rolling on my heel after the release instead of just letting my body's momentum carry me forward. I'm probably going to use my DX Shark since it has 0-turn next time I film, as I think something with the flight-path of my DX Cobra can be hard to tell what's really a level, straight, or overall good shot since it is so forgiving.

When I'm out throwing in a few, I am going to be working on some of the things you mentioned (such as "pouring the kettle"), since I know that I still nose-up a little too much. My shots aren't going as high anymore, but they can be straightened out a bit more.

Once again, I "may" consider getting a higher-speed disc sometime in the future, I just don't know how soon. Since I understand how the flight numbers showcase flight for Innova from using their discs, I'd most likely get a new disc from them. I know a lot of people like the Sidewinder and Roadrunner, but I'm not sure how I'd fair with a -4 or -3 turn disc with 1 fade. That's not saying that they're out of the question at all, I'm just likely going to try out my friends' drivers and see what works best for me.

My best first driver I fell in love with is the Diamond. My daughter who is just starting uses that disc now and she is already throwing it well and she is 12 years old.

 

[RoDeO]

Some good stuff here, especially with highlighting effort and putting in work. I think that whatever you did to help you feel the weight of the disc is a key to moving forward.

As for the philosophy of sticking to slower discs at first, that is a way to eliminate a lot of common issues that new players have right away. It sounds like you were able to navigate your way through effort and putting in a lot of time. Having a foundation based on throwing slower discs is also a way to be able to develop mastery and unlock more options. For example, slower discs skip less. If you can access a green with a putter then you have the option of throwing that and landing it closer to the pin while with a driver you have to take into account greater variance with the skip possibilities. This variance is a variable that can be eliminated/minimized by being able to get there with a slower disc. Another example: tree kicks. They happen. Slower discs tend to have less devastating tree kicks than faster discs. Just so many more options and advantages when one is able to throw slower discs for both control and distance.

Regarding individual signature throwing styles, that is another 80/20 thing. When you break down what good throwers are doing, the important parts are all the same. The individual style differences are just different ways of accomplishing the same principles.

I just bought 2 new discs this weekend and absolutely love the one. It's the Lattitude 64 Jade in 155g. I threw it this morning along with the other new disc, a Teebird3. The Jade has such a beautiful line, very similar to my River disc. I also threw the River alongside it for comparison. There was a very slight headwind breeze so I wasn't getting true flights but the Jade had a nice "S" curve to it and was getting out in the 280 foot range on average. The river, was mostly turning over in the wind but still getting it out in the 270 range. I had half a dozen throws with the Jade topping 300 feet with the max at 322. The Teebird3 was another story altogether. That disc was practically overstable on every throw. I did get it in the Champion plastic and it weighs 172g. I did get it out in the 260-270 range but a completely different flight path and feel than the Jade. It amazes me how two discs with the same speed rating can act completely different. My Mamba disc is more understable than the Jade I just bought too. Both the Mamba and the Jade had very comparable distances this morning.

 

[SaROCaM]

Thank you guys for your input yet again.

I am getting better paths, so sometime in the near future, I'm probably going to record a second form video. Overall, my form feels a lot more stable, as I started rolling on my heel after the release instead of just letting my body's momentum carry me forward. I'm probably going to use my DX Shark since it has 0-turn next time I film, as I think something with the flight-path of my DX Cobra can be hard to tell what's really a level, straight, or overall good shot since it is so forgiving.

When I'm out throwing in a few, I am going to be working on some of the things you mentioned (such as "pouring the kettle"), since I know that I still nose-up a little too much. My shots aren't going as high anymore, but they can be straightened out a bit more.

Once again, I "may" consider getting a higher-speed disc sometime in the future, I just don't know how soon. Since I understand how the flight numbers showcase flight for Innova from using their discs, I'd most likely get a new disc from them. I know a lot of people like the Sidewinder and Roadrunner, but I'm not sure how I'd fair with a -4 or -3 turn disc with 1 fade. That's not saying that they're out of the question at all, I'm just likely going to try out my friends' drivers and see what works best for me.

A Shark is a fine choice.

If you are going to get/try more Innova discs, I'd recommend at some point both a DX Teebird and a DX Eagle. A lot of folks tend to pick one or the other based on their preferences. Teebirds are really good at staying on the line you put them on and are versatile in that way. Eagles are also versatile, but they can be made to "weave" more than Teebirds. Both discs are good in DX plastic, and when you figure out what you like, you can choose to get them in a premium plastic. They also remain useful throughout their life cycles, so even as they get more worn, you'll still be able to find a use for them in your bag. If you end up not liking them, there are so many people throwing Teebirds and Eagles that you should be able to find them a new home through trading/selling/giving to newer players.

Lots of good discs out there to try.

 

[SaROCaM]

I just bought 2 new discs this weekend and absolutely love the one. It's the Lattitude 64 Jade in 155g. I threw it this morning along with the other new disc, a Teebird3. The Jade has such a beautiful line, very similar to my River disc. I also threw the River alongside it for comparison. There was a very slight headwind breeze so I wasn't getting true flights but the Jade had a nice "S" curve to it and was getting out in the 280 foot range on average. The river, was mostly turning over in the wind but still getting it out in the 270 range. I had half a dozen throws with the Jade topping 300 feet with the max at 322. The Teebird3 was another story altogether. That disc was practically overstable on every throw. I did get it in the Champion plastic and it weighs 172g. I did get it out in the 260-270 range but a completely different flight path and feel than the Jade. It amazes me how two discs with the same speed rating can act completely different. My Mamba disc is more understable than the Jade I just bought too. Both the Mamba and the Jade had very comparable distances this morning.

Yeah the flight numbers are helpful to a point, but throwing them is the only way to really know. With the various manufacturers, you'll find some oddities across the board: discs with understable ratings that fly overstable, and vice versa. Turns out the process of molding plastic can result in some inconsistencies.

Jade and River are discs that I have tried and are good for a lot of throwers. Some pretty good glide, especially the River that I had.

Teebird/Teebird3 in Champion plastic can be pretty overstable at first, also depending on arm speed. It's a good disc to have though, as when it wears in it will tend to hold a sweet spot of stability for a long time. I have some Champion Teebirds that I have seasoned for a while and they are the straightest flying fairway drivers I have ever thrown. They don't turn, they have very minimal fade, perfect for hitting narrow gaps in the woods and finishing straight down a tunnel.

TL/TL3 can fly like a more mellow/worn in Teebird right away, or at least sooner than their more overstable brethren. So that's another one to try if you like the Teebird generally but find it is a bit too overstable.

One other recommendation: Disc Golf Strong (or some other program) for warm ups/cool downs. Lots of easy ways to work on hips/core/shoulders/arm for proactive injury prevention.

 

[RoDeO]

Yeah the flight numbers are helpful to a point, but throwing them is the only way to really know. With the various manufacturers, you'll find some oddities across the board: discs with understable ratings that fly overstable, and vice versa. Turns out the process of molding plastic can result in some inconsistencies.

Jade and River are discs that I have tried and are good for a lot of throwers. Some pretty good glide, especially the River that I had.

Teebird/Teebird3 in Champion plastic can be pretty overstable at first, also depending on arm speed. It's a good disc to have though, as when it wears in it will tend to hold a sweet spot of stability for a long time. I have some Champion Teebirds that I have seasoned for a while and they are the straightest flying fairway drivers I have ever thrown. They don't turn, they have very minimal fade, perfect for hitting narrow gaps in the woods and finishing straight down a tunnel.

TL/TL3 can fly like a more mellow/worn in Teebird right away, or at least sooner than their more overstable brethren. So that's another one to try if you like the Teebird generally but find it is a bit too overstable.

One other recommendation: Disc Golf Strong (or some other program) for warm ups/cool downs. Lots of easy ways to work on hips/core/shoulders/arm for proactive injury prevention.

Thanks. I will have to check out that program. I wish I would of bought the Teebird now instead of the Teebird3. I can see where the Teebird3 will work good on a few holes I play on where I need to go right around trees but man am I blown away at how overstable that thing is. I've thrown my sons destroyer just for kicks and this new Teebird3 is more stable/ overstable than it. It must have come out of the mold wonky or something. I still like how it flies, it just never really even comes up flat ever.

 

[SaROCaM]

Thanks. I will have to check out that program. I wish I would of bought the Teebird now instead of the Teebird3. I can see where the Teebird3 will work good on a few holes I play on where I need to go right around trees but man am I blown away at how overstable that thing is. I've thrown my sons destroyer just for kicks and this new Teebird3 is more stable/ overstable than it. It must have come out of the mold wonky or something. I still like how it flies, it just never really even comes up flat ever.

Some of those Champion Teebirds can be overstable. Either it will mellow out once it is worn in enough, or you will increase power to match it. If you want to beat it up fast, hit a bunch of trees with it, spike hyzer it into hard ground, throw some rollers in a parking lot, etc. In the meantime, yeah, it might just have to be your overstable/headwind disc.

 

[RoDeO]

Some of those Champion Teebirds can be overstable. Either it will mellow out once it is worn in enough, or you will increase power to match it. If you want to beat it up fast, hit a bunch of trees with it, spike hyzer it into hard ground, throw some rollers in a parking lot, etc. In the meantime, yeah, it might just have to be your overstable/headwind disc.

Aye. Im definitely keeping it. It's easily my coolest looking disc and will get a spot in the bag just for the cool factor. I have the Mamba and Leopard3 in Champion and live both of those discs. The Leopard3 had a slightly weird rim feel as I like the feel of the wider rims but I use it on those easy throws on holes in that 250ish range.

 

[AlphaFoxFL]

I am SO sorry that I cannot find who exactly posted the tip about "pouring the kettle" to get nose-down shots, but my throws are light-years better now thanks to it. So, whoever it was, thank you...!

While I have been trying to fix my throw, I had come across the tip of "slow is smooth and smooth is far" (- Simon Lizotte), and when I tried it out, my discs weren't actually getting further, rather they were getting less distance. The reason why is that throwing nose-up was all I knew, so of course they would go shorter, they'd stall out quicker.

After implementing the "pouring the kettle" tip into my throws, my shots took a ton longer to stall out and land. It was then that the Simon Lizotte quote above kicked in, and the dots started connecting in my brain. As soon as I took my DX Shark and threw a smooth, straight-pulled shot with the nose down, you can picture the relief and joy I had. Did the same with my Cobra, and it had a nice smooth S-curve. Might I also add that these shots are going noticeably further than my earlier ones.

Really glad I adopted that before I filmed myself again. I can already tell how much throws like these are going to effect my scores back on the course... Whoever it was who gave me that tip, again, thank you.

 

[Rastnav]

I am SO sorry that I cannot find who exactly posted the tip about "pouring the kettle" to get nose-down shots, but my throws are light-years better now thanks to it. So, whoever it was, thank you...!

While I have been trying to fix my throw, I had come across the tip of "slow is smooth and smooth is far" (- Simon Lizotte), and when I tried it out, my discs weren't actually getting further, rather they were getting less distance. The reason why is that throwing nose-up was all I knew, so of course they would go shorter, they'd stall out quicker.

After implementing the "pouring the kettle" tip into my throws, my shots took a ton longer to stall out and land. It was then that the Simon Lizotte quote above kicked in, and the dots started connecting in my brain. As soon as I took my DX Shark and threw a smooth, straight-pulled shot with the nose down, you can picture the relief and joy I had. Did the same with my Cobra, and it had a nice smooth S-curve. Might I also add that these shots are going noticeably further than my earlier ones.

Really glad I adopted that before I filmed myself again. I can already tell how much throws like these are going to effect my scores back on the course... Whoever it was who gave me that tip, again, thank you.

That's a really good visual. I'm likely going to make use of it myself.

And you can probably see now why it wasn't going to matter what disc you threw, you were going to get poor results until you fixed that piece. That's why you are getting to advice to concentrate on form more than disc selection. It doesn't mean don't find discs that work for you, but form improvement is going to net more gains.

 

[SaROCaM]

I am SO sorry that I cannot find who exactly posted the tip about "pouring the kettle" to get nose-down shots, but my throws are light-years better now thanks to it. So, whoever it was, thank you...!

While I have been trying to fix my throw, I had come across the tip of "slow is smooth and smooth is far" (- Simon Lizotte), and when I tried it out, my discs weren't actually getting further, rather they were getting less distance. The reason why is that throwing nose-up was all I knew, so of course they would go shorter, they'd stall out quicker.

After implementing the "pouring the kettle" tip into my throws, my shots took a ton longer to stall out and land. It was then that the Simon Lizotte quote above kicked in, and the dots started connecting in my brain. As soon as I took my DX Shark and threw a smooth, straight-pulled shot with the nose down, you can picture the relief and joy I had. Did the same with my Cobra, and it had a nice smooth S-curve. Might I also add that these shots are going noticeably further than my earlier ones.

Really glad I adopted that before I filmed myself again. I can already tell how much throws like these are going to effect my scores back on the course... Whoever it was who gave me that tip, again, thank you.

Nice. The key is to understand what you are doing, why you are doing it, and to be able to control it. Learning nose down is important, especially for distance and for faster discs. But also make sure to remember those nose-up throws for down the line. Sometimes you will want to keep the nose up a bit on purpose in order to execute certain shots, or with certain discs like putters that like a bit of nose up to fly.

 

[AlphaFoxFL]

Certainly, Rastnav.

The big reason I'm "considering" (once again, just a possibility) getting a higher speed disc is that the courses I play are 9-hole par-3's that have hole lengths from tight-curving 245ft holes to narrow 370ft holes, and even if I get my mids to go straight, a 170ft shot on the fairway just isn't leaving me in a good place to par, more-or-less birdie. I typically end games 10+ through 9, but now that my shots are going straighter and further, I am sure that is bound to change. Basically, I'd want to have a disc where I can get some distance on those long, 340-370ft holes and get a good, further lie on the high-200ft ones. I know with time that my mid distance will improve, but I'd also like the possibility of having a far but slightly off-target starting drive so I can just "get it closer" on my second shot, rather than trying to approach it from a bit out. Does that make sense?

Once again, I am not neglecting my mids at all. My mids are my favorite and deadliest discs in my bag. I'm just saying that in-time, adding something like what I mentioned to my arsenal could provide a good and suitable use.

 

[SaROCaM]

Certainly, Rastnav.

The big reason I'm "considering" (once again, just a possibility) getting a higher speed disc is that the courses I play are 9-hole par-3's that have hole lengths from tight-curving 245ft holes to narrow 370ft holes, and even if I get my mids to go straight, a 170ft shot on the fairway just isn't leaving me in a good place to par, more-or-less birdie. I typically end games 10+ through 9, but now that my shots are going straighter and further, I am sure that is bound to change. Basically, I'd want to have a disc where I can get some distance on those long, 340-370ft holes and get a good, further lie on the high-200ft ones. I know with time that my mid distance will improve, but I'd also like the possibility of having a far but slightly off-target starting drive so I can just "get it closer" on my second shot, rather than trying to approach it from a bit out. Does that make sense?

Once again, I am not neglecting my mids at all. My mids are my favorite and deadliest discs in my bag. I'm just saying that in-time, adding something like what I mentioned to my arsenal could provide a good and suitable use.

How are you doing with your Leopard? If you are getting an accurate 170' with mids, are you getting to at least 200' with the Leopard?

Consider that on a 250' hole, a 170' shot in the fairway leaves only 80' for getting up and down for par. That is something that you should be able to do consistently.

For the 350' foot holes, two 170' shots will get you in the circle. You should strive to be able to make a high percentage of your putts in the circle (of course the goal is to make everything in the circle.)

+10 on a 9 hole course is pretty common when very new. I'd recommend seeing if you can go from playing bogey golf to playing par golf and finishing even par or close to it on your 9 hole courses. As laid out above, you already have the tools to accomplish that; it is likely more a matter of consistency.

If you look again through the old archived DGR forum, there are 3-disc and 2-disc rounds among the "training assignments." I'd probably go ahead and get some more fairway drivers, but also work on lowering your scores through accuracy and consistency in addition to lowering your scores through developing distance.

As you develop your distance, if you have the foundation to play disciplined par golf, your added distance will lead to more birdie opportunities. But at +10 for 9 holes, I'd consider working on getting to par consistently before focusing on birdies.

 

[azplaya25]

Certainly, Rastnav.

The big reason I'm "considering" (once again, just a possibility) getting a higher speed disc is that the courses I play are 9-hole par-3's that have hole lengths from tight-curving 245ft holes to narrow 370ft holes, and even if I get my mids to go straight, a 170ft shot on the fairway just isn't leaving me in a good place to par, more-or-less birdie. I typically end games 10+ through 9, but now that my shots are going straighter and further, I am sure that is bound to change. Basically, I'd want to have a disc where I can get some distance on those long, 340-370ft holes and get a good, further lie on the high-200ft ones. I know with time that my mid distance will improve, but I'd also like the possibility of having a far but slightly off-target starting drive so I can just "get it closer" on my second shot, rather than trying to approach it from a bit out. Does that make sense?

Once again, I am not neglecting my mids at all. My mids are my favorite and deadliest discs in my bag. I'm just saying that in-time, adding something like what I mentioned to my arsenal could provide a good and suitable use.

The problem with getting a higher speed disc will be if you get something new and too stable, and the only way you can get it to go straight is by really muscling it out there. Then all of a sudden your going to be flipping over that shark and your putter, and your scores are going to go in the wrong direction. The easiest way to go from bogey golf to par golf is to get everything up and down within 200 feet. That means having a consistent approach game that can get you within 15-20 feet of the basket, and hitting a high percentage of putts within 15-20 feet. That will lower your scores way faster than a faster driver, and you won't risk jacking up your developing form.


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