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I've only thrown a few CD2's and they were all S-line, likely molded a couple seasons ago. So what I'm saying is I don't know how much they can vary. But to me the CD2's were like a beat in Thunderbird that is very workable, or the flight shape of what McBeth smashing a Thunderbird looked like...

Keep swinging through so that the right shoulder keeps turning...or rather both shoulders keep rotating around the spine. You want your right shoulder continually turning so that it is always pulling the elbow, and that is pulling the forearm. You're stopping the shoulder I think, so the elbow...

Not in this situation for me. With a disc that is stupid OS or so warped that I wouldn't be throwing it otherwise I'd consider extreme measures, but I don't think I'll get carried away with something that feels and flies ok already. I just know I prefer them when they season a bit and get...

Yeah my Neutron Anode does that too...so had Neutron/Proton/Eclipse which is proton all do it. I'm just cycling Anodes and it's been a while since I added a fresh one so it's more noticeable than I thought with the different hand profile. I'll continue throwing it and leave it in the yard on...

I was kind of thinking heat might be a major factor, maybe I'll leave it in the sun to be safer about it...not worth ruining it to me, just wanted to speed up the process a little.

Have you found all your Ions eventually puddle top naturally over time/use?

Anyone have any advice on how to develop the inevitable "puddle top" on Anodes/Ions a little sooner? I much prefer the lower profile feel, release, and even flight once they are like this but it seems to take 8-12 months of normal time/wear for me for that to happen. Actually I don't even know...

Have fun, and since you're a gearhead and it looks like Fort Collins is at 5000' elevation....keep in mind when you're researching discs they will fly more overstable for you than people at lower altitudes. Glidey straight/understable midranges are your friend as you are a beginner, and...

Do you feel the weight of the disc or the disc's opposite edge constantly from the top of the backswing and ramping up/getting heavier as you are swinging through? Or do you feel the disc just continuing forward with you in that "floating" type feeling until it's time for the outward swing when...

He throws his mids real far on FH shots a lot. I think I've seen him throw his Cloudbreakers on bomber shots too, with a lot of hyzer. Pretty much all the top pro's with cannons for BH shots throw their "flippiest" Destroyers/PD2's/etc. for their FH's. Yeah those discs are still overstable...

Yeah that definitely sounds right to me. The disc kind of shoots out and there is very little concern for getting finger flubs or having it kind of pull right or something odd. Don't need to worry about how loose or firm to have the wrist either, it just works. Don't get lazy with the body...

You've got to throw them like 30' high on a steep hyzer release. Even though they are high speed and sharp rimmed, for some reason they don't stall out for me when they turn over at height. I wouldn't bag one because it's too unpredictable for me and I can throw other discs straighter...at a...

First I agree with discing down instead of throwing the big boy molds if you don't have the arm for it, just because it says Destroyer or Firebird and all the pro's use them. I think it's awesome when someone lasers a Leo instead of flexes a Firebird as hard as they can to go "straight". The...

I would also film from behind the teepad, it's much easier to see your toe-heel balance that way. It's more that you need to feel how it is to be over the foot/leg/hip, like how your body wants to end up, rather than just placing the foot somewhere arbitrarily. That's why that stairs drill is...

In your FH, I think you are trying to force yourself to finish "palm up", even though you're getting slight pronation through disc release and then you are telling yourself to be palm up, so you end up with a weird abbreviated follow through. Even pro's who say to finish palm up, don't do that...

Yeah that stride direction looks reasonable for that release point to me. You don't want to step way left on the last step...you want to continue on the same line/path the whole time. But that line will be right-to-left or closed relative to your release trajectory. Like here you can see...

Yeah now I'm considering leaving a champ Teebird in a bucket over the winter since I wouldn't use it during that time. That disc would stiffen up and not make the bag for the few times I play when it's cold out. Freeze/thaw cycles in a bucket might do interesting things, I have no idea.

Yeah get rid of the plastic flashing on the bottom. Just push the disc around on smooth concrete in circles until it's smooth. I also like putting a towel down on the sidewalk, and you can hammer motion or FH it into that towel a bunch of times while constantly rotating the disc to kind of...

As much as I agree most players put too much emphasis on buying discs...they don't select them very well. Like thinking things such as: -what is the most open line to the basket? -what disc naturally flies this path at 70% effort? -if I mess up a bit will this disc hold that line or hyzer early...

You're not set up with the correct tilt/angle or balance to be able to stride forward off the left foot...you're tilted back and waiting to land butt-first on the plant leg. So it feels impossible to push off the rear foot until you're about to touch down.