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[Help] Artificial Wear

Alexplz

Double Eagle Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2013
Messages
1,923
OK so, being the impatient type, but also the type to prefer premium plastics in drivers, I am tempted to experiment with beating in some S and GFDs artificially.

I tried a DX Roc in the dryer at one point in time, did not seems to accomplish much. I used 0 heat and didn't add any rocks or old shoes - next time could try a little heat and maybe at least put a few discs in at once.

I have also been thinking about taking a Brillo pad to the surface of a disc to muss up the gloss and possibly aid in spoiling laminar flow. The way I understand it, it's not actually well agreed upon that it's the changing of the PLH through wear that reduces HSS - could also just be the hundreds of nicks and abrasions, or a combination thereof.

I have considered heating them in sub-boiling water and allowing them to cool, possibly just on a flat surface with no weight. The FDs I'm considering doing this to have heartbeat domes, and I suspect that re-heating and allowing them to cool more slowly could reduce their stability to where it would have been without unusual molding circumstances.

Finally, there's the old reliable technique of... well basically playing disc golf with them. Thumbers and wooded courses, in addition to allowing them to pan and skitter on the flight plate or just driving them into woody bushes etc.



What in your experience works the best to reduce the HSS of a disc quickly?
 
I've taken mine on the course and thrown a bunch of forehand rollers with it alongside my round. It's a fun skill to practice and seems to age them nicely.
 
At one point I wanted to invest in an old school paint can shaker and a reel-to-reel film canister for beating in discs. I never realized my designs. Rollers or the side of a trash can will be your best bet.
 
If there is any noticeable flashing on the disc, sand it off. Typically can be found at the parting line and/or the bottom of the disc (where the lower surface of the wing meets the inner rim). Great way to jump start the break in process, and also improves the hand feel imho.
 
I always found the best way to do this is simply to hold the disc in my hand and flex the rim up and down while rotating the disc while watching TV or something. It's a slow process, but I just do it for a bit each night, throw it the next time I am out and test the stability.

No chunking of the rim, no sanding. Just slowly mimic the process of the disc impacting something.

I don't really do this anymore, but I found it to be the most linear, easy to control way to do this.
 
If there is any noticeable flashing on the disc, sand it off. Typically can be found at the parting line and/or the bottom of the disc (where the lower surface of the wing meets the inner rim). Great way to jump start the break in process, and also improves the hand feel imho.

This is especially true on Trilogy stuff. Just getting rid of the under flashing adds a -1.
 
Yeah get rid of the plastic flashing on the bottom. Just push the disc around on smooth concrete in circles until it's smooth.

I also like putting a towel down on the sidewalk, and you can hammer motion or FH it into that towel a bunch of times while constantly rotating the disc to kind of bang up the nose even-ish without any chipping. If you want more natural markings then do a bunch of FH rollers to the next teepad every time you hole out. Over the course of a casual round, that will add up I'm sure.

Discs always seem to feel and fly better after they have been found in a water hazard after an extended time...I have no idea why. Has anyone tried just leaving discs in a water bucket in their yard for a week or more? It sounds crazy but I definitely notice retrieved discs often feel great.
 
Discs always seem to feel and fly better after they have been found in a water hazard after an extended time...I have no idea why. Has anyone tried just leaving discs in a water bucket in their yard for a week or more? It sounds crazy but I definitely notice retrieved discs often feel great.
No, no, no. They get too comfy in there, and then start seeking out water.
 
Discs always seem to feel and fly better after they have been found in a water hazard after an extended time...I have no idea why. Has anyone tried just leaving discs in a water bucket in their yard for a week or more? It sounds crazy but I definitely notice retrieved discs often feel great.

I remember pulling some old champ discs out of the lake at Wakanda Park and thinking they felt great. They seemed a little more gummy than typical champ, more grip and a slight bit of extra flex.

Never went as far as deliberately aging discs in water, but it's not the craziest idea I've heard!
 
Never went as far as deliberately aging discs in water, but it's not the craziest idea I've heard!

Yeah now I'm considering leaving a champ Teebird in a bucket over the winter since I wouldn't use it during that time. That disc would stiffen up and not make the bag for the few times I play when it's cold out. Freeze/thaw cycles in a bucket might do interesting things, I have no idea.
 
Skip shots in a gravel parking lot can do wonders; just don't try it on concrete or asphalt.

Upside down skip shots on grass; make sure there are no gravels or rocks in the landing area.

Forehand rollers and grandes on dirt/hardpack
 
I seasoned a max weight destroyer that was a meathook in minutes after grinding a good 1-2 mm off the bottom.
 
Ugh.

How about you just disc down if you're in some kind of bind? IMO there's too many people out there in a rush and looking for "seasoned firebirds" that should really be throwing a TB3- and so on and so forth.

The compulsion to bag a certain disc shouldn't outweigh the need to perform. Just pick up the disc that flies the way you need it to, even if it means admitting you should really be throwing a leopard to your friends, and not a fresh Sexybird.

It hurts my soul to hear so many people saying "throw it at the pavement!"
 
I nailed this one last week.
Played with a buddy of mine who didn't play much but wanted to come out to the course for a good time.

1. Go play with buddy who doesn't play much
2. Let him throw a favorite, well-seasoned, four year old disc at a wooded course
3. Watch noob hyzer to get stuck in a tree
4. Recover from heart attack
5. Throw soon-to-be seasoned disc at the tree for thirty minutes until you dislodge the previously lodged priceless disc
6. Return previously lodged priceless disc to bag and give him your future-eh-oh-well-it's-gone/water-hole disc
7. Throw newly-seasoned disc and be amazed at how well it flies.
Seasoned up a 168 RDG Armor Gila that way. Flies pretty straight now.
 
My laundry/storage room has a section of carpet on the concrete wall. Rather than tearing it off, I threw a new DX Roc against it like 100 times.

I'll let you know if it's flippy now.
 
The compulsion to bag a certain disc shouldn't outweigh the need to perform. Just pick up the disc that flies the way you need it to, even if it means admitting you should really be throwing a leopard to your friends, and not a fresh Sexybird.

First I agree with discing down instead of throwing the big boy molds if you don't have the arm for it, just because it says Destroyer or Firebird and all the pro's use them. I think it's awesome when someone lasers a Leo instead of flexes a Firebird as hard as they can to go "straight".

The problem is there's so much variation disc to disc in the same mold. I like how straight Teebirds fly, but I don't like the super beefy ones that fly like a speed 7 Firebird. I have the power to throw Teebirds, and if I go to a less stable mold then those molds have more turn to them than a mild Teebird. There's so much variation, I can throw a mild teebird 370+ and a beefy one is hard to get 320' out of on the same line. So I'd rather beat it in fast and be able to throw it than either hate it for years until I might like it, put it in the closet and forget about it, or resell it unless I have to.
 

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