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[Help] Artificial Wear

First I agree with discing down instead of throwing the big boy molds if you don't have the arm for it, just because it says Destroyer or Firebird and all the pro's use them. I think it's awesome when someone lasers a Leo instead of flexes a Firebird as hard as they can to go "straight".

The problem is there's so much variation disc to disc in the same mold. I like how straight Teebirds fly, but I don't like the super beefy ones that fly like a speed 7 Firebird. I have the power to throw Teebirds, and if I go to a less stable mold then those molds have more turn to them than a mild Teebird. There's so much variation, I can throw a mild teebird 370+ and a beefy one is hard to get 320' out of on the same line. So I'd rather beat it in fast and be able to throw it than either hate it for years until I might like it, put it in the closet and forget about it, or resell it unless I have to.


I totally get it, and to that point there are no guarantees discing down either... But the thought of all that heating & beating, followed by some "grind it 'till you find it" on a brand new disc just hurts me in my Dad sensibilities. Lol
 
I read about Climo leaving Aviars on his roof to season in the sun.

I accidentally left a JK Aviar outside for a while. Became my best putter for a while, until it finally lost it's HSS, and thus was extremely unpredictable with my type of putt. I almost want to try this and the water trick with a couple of discs and see what happens.
 
I accidentally left a JK Aviar outside for a while. Became my best putter for a while, until it finally lost it's HSS, and thus was extremely unpredictable with my type of putt. I almost want to try this and the water trick with a couple of discs and see what happens.

I was doing the water trick heat it to boiling then pour into the disc underside to fix how a Proline Titanic back up that had a dent in it tying to pop it out. I eventually got another disc as a 2nd normal backup to have 2 of them as Proline Titanic discs are not made anymore. Well the disc became floppy after several times of doing this and still has small dent on top flight plate, so the disc when needed will be my uphill/downhill putter as well as for cliff shots where I can get the disc back, not end cliffs/water cliffs never to be seen again discs.

This like how my One Star Shark came in from online as almost G-Star and will replace the Pro model I am currently using as finding any Pro X Out Sharks in the Innova Disc Golf Pro Shop above 167 grams is impossible. I was going to get a G-Star Shark to try as replacement for the Pro Shark I have currently when it goes US anyhow so if I like this disc when time comes to try it, then I will get a production G-Star Shark to not have the dent in spot on the rim, that I marked where it is on the top near nose with a Sharpie Extreme, also wrote Almost above Star then put G- before the Star on the disc. I did get another backup normal of Star Shark 175 grams to have 2 normal backup as those are either running out of the stock, or not being made anymore. With how often the Star Shark was like an F2 in the stock runs I am not surprised.
 
I did the hot car method for 1 hour to some stiff Champion Destroyers, they were so stiff, stiffer then Jolly launcher. This gets discs to that perfect gummy feel, start with 1/2 hour if the discs you got are just jolly launcher. I tried this with a stiff disc that had a 2008 tournament stamp Z Wasp but that disc was so stiff that doing that for a whole round of 18 did not work in fact it only made the Z Wasp slicker but not much softer only micro softer. I also tried leaving the Stiff Z Wasp disc out in the sun in summer on pavement but that did not help or change the disc at all. I can't use the disc as the mold tends to slip out of hands early due to having the slick problem.
 
I read about Climo leaving Aviars on his roof to season in the sun.

Interesting. I came here to ask if there are any pros that have a "process" with new discs. I'd be interested to hear about any current pros that do something like this. Personally, I just hold and lightly flex my new discs while I watch tv and have no idea if it makes any difference. I think it helps with grip on new base plastic, but beyond that it probably doesn't do much.
 
I was doing the water trick heat it to boiling then pour into the disc underside to fix how a Proline Titanic back up that had a dent in it tying to pop it out. I eventually got another disc as a 2nd normal backup to have 2 of them as Proline Titanic discs are not made anymore. Well the disc became floppy after several times of doing this and still has small dent on top flight plate, so the disc when needed will be my uphill/downhill putter as well as for cliff shots where I can get the disc back, not end cliffs/water cliffs never to be seen again discs.

This like how my One Star Shark came in from online as almost G-Star and will replace the Pro model I am currently using as finding any Pro X Out Sharks in the Innova Disc Golf Pro Shop above 167 grams is impossible. I was going to get a G-Star Shark to try as replacement for the Pro Shark I have currently when it goes US anyhow so if I like this disc when time comes to try it, then I will get a production G-Star Shark to not have the dent in spot on the rim, that I marked where it is on the top near nose with a Sharpie Extreme, also wrote Almost above Star then put G- before the Star on the disc. I did get another backup normal of Star Shark 175 grams to have 2 normal backup as those are either running out of the stock, or not being made anymore. With how often the Star Shark was like an F2 in the stock runs I am not surprised.

Folks give him a hand, he is on a roll! :clap:
 
OK fellas, spent last evening working in my SFD in a variety of ways - first, a nice bath in boiling water from the kettle, and allowed it to cool naturally in the water. No weight, no unnatural flattening. This mellowed the dome slightly as I expected.

Next, used a brillo pad and a sanding block to take the gloss off. Man, star plastic is tough.

Finally, did some flexing by hand, rotating as I went.

Today I'm headed down to a flight of concrete steps. The plan is to throw some thumbers and tomahawks into the unprotected concrete - It has been suggested to throw a towel or the like over the rough surface first, but I'll be skipping that step (pun intended) to intentionally add some scuffs and nicks.

I'll take the sanding block or a lighter to any offending nicks, but I don't mind the texture TBH. I want to get the full effect here, as it will be worth it to have a less stable FD. <3

I'll post the results later - at present, the thing flies quite neutral overall; I've seen a hint of turn out of it once or twice. Would like to have something that bridges the gap between a fresh CFD and an Underworld. :popcorn:
 
The pics speak for themselves. Disc Gore!

Got a throw or two in, seems to have had an effect. Jury is out.
 

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Can I just add that discs are SO ****ING durable as a whole? I mean, nicks and scuffs aside, these things put up with ridiculous punishment and keep going. Hats off to the manufacturers for pushing the plastic blends so far. I consider Star plastic to be one of if not the greatest improvement in disc technology. Decent grip, still insane durability.
 
Anything Innova except DX is pretty sturdy. My main field practice area is paved. Star, Pro, and Champ all have survived hundreds of throws with only scuffs and minor dings. A handful of throws with a DX Valk and it already looks like crap.
 
Anything Innova except DX is pretty sturdy. My main field practice area is paved. Star, Pro, and Champ all have survived hundreds of throws with only scuffs and minor dings. A handful of throws with a DX Valk and it already looks like crap.

You practice throwing on pavement?
 
You practice throwing on pavement?

Unfortunately it's the only spot I've got available when I'm at work (on standby). I throw almost all premium plastic anyway so it's not a big deal. Maybe it seasoned my Thunderbirds a little quicker but hasn't touched my Champ Valk other than removing a touch of the flashing.
 
If you dye a disc using heat, I have found that this helps the disc become more US. Want it to stay stable, after the dye put it in the freezer.
 
Unfortunately it's the only spot I've got available when I'm at work (on standby). I throw almost all premium plastic anyway so it's not a big deal. Maybe it seasoned my Thunderbirds a little quicker but hasn't touched my Champ Valk other than removing a touch of the flashing.

i dig it

most premium plastic can handle pavement
 
I totally get it, and to that point there are no guarantees discing down either... But the thought of all that heating & beating, followed by some "grind it 'till you find it" on a brand new disc just hurts me in my Dad sensibilities. Lol

This was a faded out crap disc that "I grind it till I find it". I threw it 320 feet a couple days ago. I usually use it around pavement or disc eating trees.
 

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Unfortunately it's the only spot I've got available when I'm at work (on standby). I throw almost all premium plastic anyway so it's not a big deal. Maybe it seasoned my Thunderbirds a little quicker but hasn't touched my Champ Valk other than removing a touch of the flashing.

This causes me pain.....
 

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