• Discover new ways to elevate your game with the updated DGCourseReview app!
    It's entirely free and enhanced with features shaped by user feedback to ensure your best experience on the course. (App Store or Google Play)

Airbrush dye show-n-tell, and helpful hints to get started airbrushing

CrAcKaNuG

Newbie
Joined
Apr 14, 2015
Messages
7
Location
Divide by zero
So my brother-in-law and I have been dyeing disc's for awhile, he more so than myself. Between the two of us, he has become very good at all the traditional methods of dyeing and I have gotten good at experimenting with non-traditional methods. It also helps that he has a vinyl cutting plotter.

Full gallery: Image Gallery

I recently bought an airbrush to test out spraying dye hoping to master creating gradients quickly and easily. It was a success, here's a story:

-Air hose ran into the kitchen:
nEmh3IN.jpg


-I run just a little under 10psi, depends on the thickness of the mix. No more or it blows the mix around horribly, anything less causes a splotchy spray pattern.

-Parts list:
1. Denatured alcohol, acetone, and clear unscented detergent (local hardware store $7 - $10 each)
2. Oregano shakers from Bed, Bath, and Beyond ($1 each, great for storing mixed dye)
3. Plastic squeeze bottles for final airbrush ready mix. ($1.79 from Hobby Lobby - 2 pack)
4. Measuring devices (Don't use your gf/wifes, or what you use for food - buy ones you don't care about)
5. ProChemical Dye, or your favorite. (price varies)
6. An airbrush (Iwata Neo CN $50-$70 - can be super expensive for fancier ones)
OVXalsT.jpg


-After some trial and error (a lot of trial and error) I found a good dye mix:
1-tbls of denatured alcohol
1-tbls of acetone
1-tbls of scalding hot water. (from tap or heated on stove)
2 or 3 scooped and leveled 1/4 tsp of dye powder (depends on strength you want) I found 2 scoops work well for darker colors and 1 scoop for lighter colors, 3 scoops for black and red.

-Mix/shake these 4 ingredients together in the jars or something you can seal well. Once fully dissolved, or close to it, set the jars to the side.

-Get the plastic squeeze bottles or something equivalent and measure out 10 to 15ml (1 tbls) of clear unscented detergent and pour it into the squeeze bottles.

-Go back to the dye mix and measure out 5ml of the liquid (1 tsp) into the squeeze bottles of detergent. Add 10ml or 2 tsp of dye for black and red. Cap the bottles and give each a little shake to mix the color with detergent. Don't worry if it creates bubbles, they will go away.

Bam, your airbrush dye mix is ready and should be of a proper consistency.

NOTE: This method works extremely well with ProChemical dyes, I haven't test the other brands.

-After you are done spraying your dye, you don't need to keep anything wet or moist.

-Partly fill your sink or a some kind of container with water hot enough to create a little steam. Put some kind of shot glass or something in the water to keep the disk elevated and let it sit covered (I use tin foil) for 5 to 10 minutes. If you are careful or a risk taker you can float the disc in the water.

-Basically, just let the disc sit in some kind of a steam for 5 to 10 minutes.

-Once that time has passed rinse the disc with hot water. Dry with your favorite expendable towel. Done.

There will be trial and error...
kTwpmgq.jpg



But after a little practice and patience you will get the hang of it:

u90YJqg.jpg

vtzAU3z.jpg



*Pro tip: Go slow and use stencils or vinyl to give crisp fine lines.

I hope this encourages anyone ready to take a plunge.

-Crack
 
Man! Great first post, CrAcKaNuG!:thmbup: Welcome!

I've been wanting to try an airbrush to apply dyes, and you've given me incentive to jump in now. Thanks for posting.

Peace,
-Jeff
 
:clap::clap::clap:

I'd love to try airbrushing, but didn't want to spend a ton buying everything for it to not work well. Now I'll have to buy one.
 
Wow.... great write-up dude. Can't wait to see where this leads.

Thanks man! I was just so happy it worked. After all was said and done I was about 100 dollars in and didn't want it to be a complete and utter failure. Can't wait to see where this goes as well. Next up, water, then maybe some finer art.

Man! Great first post, CrAcKaNuG!:thmbup: Welcome!

I've been wanting to try an airbrush to apply dyes, and you've given me incentive to jump in now. Thanks for posting.

Peace,
-Jeff

Thanks man, I normally lurk and was waiting for something worth while to post. Good luck and you will be happy with the results. Took me about 2 weeks to get all the measurements, etc dialed in before it worked well. One other thing. If your dye mix has a lot of granules when you try and use the airbrush, it will clog, then suddenly dislodge and dye will run everywhere. :doh:

:clap::clap::clap:

I'd love to try airbrushing, but didn't want to spend a ton buying everything for it to not work well. Now I'll have to buy one.

Can't go wrong and totally worth the time it takes to finish a disc. I found it goes quicker than the normal dye and let it sit method. Plus you use so little dye and get tremendous results! I almost couldn't believe it when it worked.
 
Great write up man! Thank you for contributing to the forum. I may have to give this a go if I ever start dyeing discs again :hfive: Weather has been too nice lately to do anything but throw!
 
One other thing. If your dye mix has a lot of granules when you try and use the airbrush, it will clog, then suddenly dislodge and dye will run everywhere. :doh:

I'd be willing to bet that if you ran the mixture though a paint strainer, it would work just fine. (Haven't used a strainer in years, with the built in filters in top feed paint cups now.)

Peace,
-Jeff
 
I'd be willing to bet that if you ran the mixture though a paint strainer, it would work just fine. (Haven't used a strainer in years, with the built in filters in top feed paint cups now.)

Peace,
-Jeff

Once I was able to get the mix fine tuned it wasn't an issue. However, with the black and red I filtered it with some cotton rags you typically find from the paint section at your hardware store.

On side note... I just wanted to say your Calvin and Hobbes disc was amazing, ridiculously amazing! That takes serious time and skill to do; plus I'm a big fan of Bill Waterson's work and have a soft spot for Calvin and Hobbes. Many fond childhood memories and I thank you for the feelz that brought up. :thmbup: Thank you and damn good work!
 
Curious- would you do commissioned work on discs? What might your price range be?

Haven't really given it a thought. I just enjoy doing this for fun - next to actually using the disc for their intended purpose haha! I am open to the idea I guess. I really am not looking to turn some type of a profit or make this into a business, so I guess whatever covers shipping and maybe a couple of extra bucks for a beer. :thmbup:
 
Thanks for sharing, Crack! This technique opens up a ton of possibilities. Works especially great for flame effects and any kind of gradient. I stole a cheap little airbrush from my wife (was intended as some makeup applying gimmick) Nothing special but it does the trick. I've only used it for some gradient backgrounds and combined with a spinning rig to create fades from dark to light. I've only used Idye and acetone mix and found it tends to evaporate too quickly to give the dye time to set in....especially on champ type plastic. I'm going to have to try your recipe....seems like the combo with detergent and water along with time will work out better.
Helpful tip: When your nozzle gets clogged up I've found a bit of super light gauge guitar string (.009-.011 high 'E') is great for poking through the tiny opening.
 
I'm going to have to try your recipe....seems like the combo with detergent and water along with time will work out better.
Helpful tip: When your nozzle gets clogged up I've found a bit of super light gauge guitar string (.009-.011 high 'E') is great for poking through the tiny opening.

I will use this method, thanks.

The key was adding the equal part of hot water. Without that the dye wasn't dissolving very well and also doing exactly what you mentioned. Combining the first mix you create with the detergent after also was a big factor. You will still get a little movement from the dye when you are trying to lay a heavy coat, but it wont run. I have some nice dye thickener coming in the mail Friday called Superclear and will see how that does as a replacement for the detergent. (and by "nice" I mean slightly pricey for the amount you get) I will report back with results.
 
I'm an old airbrusher turned disc golfer, and just did a "dip" of my first disc using the new Rit DYEMORE. I used the graphite color and it turned out really nice and black.I mix the Rit, (about 4- 5 tablespoons) in a inch of water in a 10 inch frying pan at 190 degrees. I would love to airbrush and I think your method would work using liquid dyemore instead of powder. Dyemore only works with heat, so I can try to use boiling hot water. I will get on this and post pictures and any change to the formula with the results.
 
Great write-up and painting work!

It bears mentioning that anyone who goes out and buys an airbrush that it is ABSOLUTELY crucial to thoroughly clean your airbrush as soon as you are done using it. I wouldn't see dye as being as problematic as, say, acrylic or enamel, but you can turn an airbrush into a paperweight really quick if you don't get the brush totally clean after use. The little tiny holes that make airbrushes so amazing for controlling paint deposit also make them highly prone to being clogged and inoperable if not thoroughly cleaned immediately after use.
 

Latest posts

Top